Complete catback exhaust
On my brothers exhaust (just bought a '97 4.0L AWD) needed the muffler replaced and the previous owner had replaced the flex with a straight pipe. I had a local shop built a new system and restore it to bolt on system. We are now making the new flex assemblies here in the US (look on eBay, we make the nicer looking ones with the OE style hangers). On my brothers van we used our 18" WickedFlow muffler which is nice sounding, but is fairly quiet. We considered that important because I've tried using other performance mufflers on Aerostars and found the exhaust drone to be annoying. Then we built a new larger tailpipe with a new hanger.
The result is that the performance is noticeabley improved on the 4.0L Can't speak for the 3.0L, though an increase in performance might be had there too. The engine is nice and quite, there is a deep tone at the tailpipe, but little sound gets back inside the van. When you get on the throttle, it gets a little louder, but still very tame and controlled.
Anyway, I'm just trying to see if there is any interest in something like this here. Have any of you considered a more performance oriented exhaust, especially if it is all bolt on and could be assembled in your driveway?
We are set up to be able to build these complete kits, if anyone is interested. After installing one on my brothers van and hearing how it sounds and performs, I did the same on my own van, and got the same result. It seems to have a little more get up and go, and it is much quieter than my 50 series muffler was. It still has a growl, and is really nice sounding, but it is not overpowering at all, and doesn't seem out of place, at least not to me.
http://gallery.me.com/tyranitar#100096
This system shows the stock system (minus the flex pipe), and shows what the new system looks like. The new system is 2.25", which is one size up from the stock. Ironically, the stock converter assembly is 2.25" on the 4.0L, but for unknown reasons, for necks down to 2" after the flange on the cat. I suspect that it has more to do with standardizing parts and keeping costs down, but the muffler is the same one they use on the 2.3L Ranger.
The new kit we built is a little larger and does free up some power. I can verify this by going uphill with known loads and seeing how fast I can go and how often it needs to downshift. The new system holds higher gears longer, and often doesn't need to drop out of OD at all. While this doesn't put a number on a HP gain, it is a noticeable improvement over the standardized stock parts.
For the record, we are planning on including a choice on a variety of exhaust tips that would be included with the kit. The one in the picture is one of the choices. Also before voting, here is a short video I recorded of it running. The video will probably require quicktime player in order to be viewed.
http://gallery.me.com/tyranitar#100100
FWIW, the one I made was also 2.25", bent 45 degrees to the right after the cat, went into a Thrush muffler (was cheap) and then exited on the side just ahead of the RR wheel, under the slider. It was much easier then fabricating a section to go over the axle, and I would probably do the same thing again if I had to build another.
The kit we would sell would include the new flex assembly, with the gasket, A WickedFlow 18SC224 muffler, the new tailpipe over the axle, a new hanger and hanger grommet on the rear, and a polished stainless steel exhaust tip much like the one in the pictures and video. Also the muffler and the tip have lifetime warranties.
I have not had a chance to check the gas milage yet, I like to look across a couple tanks to see what is happening. With the kind of mileage I drive it won't take long to see if there is a consistent savings.
Are you thinking of having options for muffler/tip?
Is it going to be a bolt-on system, or would there be some welding required?
Would there be an option for just the pipe and the purchaser can get the muffler/tip seperate?
I am semi-interested in the set up. I would be totally interested but my current exhaust system is still in good shape so it might be a little hard to convince the wife on spending a replacement setup if it is not needed.
Price and shipping are the biggest concerns I guess.
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Lets put the price this way. You can buy a Walker system on ebay for about $180 and shipping is a mystery. Their system does not include clamps and does not improve performance, and is in fact a downgrade from the stock setup. Our system will list for $199 and the shipping costs will not be hidden. I don't think shipping will be a whole lot.
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edit: i wouldn't argue if some one wanted to come out with a better set of headers for the 3.0l, even it it just bolts to the factory manifold and was a better flowing down pipe
agree that the stock 4L exhaust pipe diameter at 2" is too small for a 4L engine, sufficient for the 3L.
i thought of going to duals and doing away with the restrictive Y pipe years ago when I was still towing with the Aero and had to hold 3500 rpm for miles on the hills. even looked into headers.
Ford did go cheap on the Aero exhaust but used hvy gauge pipe and a quality long life aluminized muffler. my last replacement was supposed to be OEM noise level but on a hill pull or winding up on an onramp, she's LOUD.
the place to make Mad Money on exhaust systems is the Ranger crowd. there are 80's Rangers out there that the exhaust system is worth more than the basic truck
I think 65mm (2.5") dual exaust would be better.
But we have air intake system limitations and this is step #2 to upgrade air intake and filter!
This system is targeted at the 4.0L market. The 3.0L can use it too, but I'm not sure it would do anything. A muffler alone could be used on the 3.0L, in the stock 2" size.
Agreed: few options to procure catback, useful product is a mail order bolt-on, size should be 2-1/4 for 4.0L but 2" perfectly OK for 3.0L.
I measured the same OEM neck-down after the converter, but the damage is done already way up at the manifolds and Y-pipe.
Just today I completed an install of a Magnaflow 13644 6"dia x 33" with 2" in/out. Quiet quality replacement for OEM. Indy shop did chop & weld. Dramatic sound difference before/after, very worthwhile project, can recommend.
Procured mail order for $65 and install was $65. Would have (only slightly) prefered a drive-way bolt-on solution. My advice: there is definitely space for marketing through the eBay channel, but keep it simple. Hit a $150 max price point -> imo, there is a maintenance market but not a performance market.
I hauled back about 1,500 lbs of stuff in the back. For any of you who have not been to St. George, there is a long grade from St. George up the the next major city. St. George is at an elevation of 3,000 ft. The elevation of Cedar City is about 5,600 ft. Cedar City is only about 45 miles north of St. George, so you can see there is a significant elevation change in a relatively short distance. I do this grade while loaded. for the most part, I can maintain the speed limit of 75 mph in OD, and there are only a couple places where I need to bump it down. When I downshift, it unleashes a whole lot more power.
Its funny that you say that Rojo. I am well aware that the 3.0L uses a very stupid setup. The 4.0L is similar, but the size is greater. The factory manifolds are fine, and even the y-pipe though small is fine. The problem with the stock one is not how small it is, it is how it is brought together.
Just for the reference, our system is now ready to ship and can be found on eBay. We have listed it specifically for the 4.0L. The shipping is a lot less than I was expecting.





















