I recently started using Mobil 1 0-30 synthetic in my 01 5.4 F250. Was previously using same brand, 5-30 oil. Sure seemed like the engine had a little more pick-up and worked a little less hard to accomplish the same acceleration etc. Notice I said a little, not a lot. Anyway, I plan on using the 0 weight through the winter here in MN for cold starting, although TallPaul got me hooked on the Wolverine oil pan heater and I am going to order that this week, butI wanted to know your guys opinion on 0 weight oils.

Thanks

 

I think the M1 0W30 is a good oil because I have read they are using esters to get the viscosity improvement at temperature. Normally a wide margin between the cold and warm viscosity's is a bad thing because of the viscosity improvers that are added. Viscosity improvers are not helpful in lubrication so you usually want fewer of them. This may be a case of having it both ways.

I would expect you would see some differences at cold starts and minor differences at temperature when compared to the 5w30 and 10w30 M1 alternatives.

Some new Mercedes are factory filling Mobil 1 0w40 so I hear. It can't be too bad!

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 11-Dec-02 AT 02:21 AM (EST)]FWIW - I've used it (once), on my mother's vehicle (SHE DEFINITELY qualifies for "severe" or "Special" opt. use/condition's!) w/ "seemingly" no ill-effects - didn't "notice" any great gains though either (who knows, maybe that's why her vehicle is still running?)

Ended up running it almost exactly 7,500 miles (WINTER of `99-`00) - wasn't sure the cost was justified at the time (her mileage interval on this brand/weight was 29,615 to 37,145 - late Nov. to early Apr.), though in hindsight, I'm glad I did it in her situation(s). Next change went back to Mobil 1 5w30 (recommended/preferred weight).

I believe it's a solid product/performer -FOR WINTER- especially if you're in MN and if you have no other means (block-heater, heated garage, etc.) to overnight your vehicle - though from what I've read the current product MAY not be as good as it was then - WAS "TRI-SYNTH.", now "Super-Synth." (???)

***BTW*** This vehicle developed an oil leak at about 50,000 - not sure if the "0"W30 had anything to do w/ it, but I am "slightly" suspicious (CYNICAL!). Though I really suspect this is a design/manufact. issue (Subaru!) Am now using 10W30 (due to leak) my own 10W30 "Blend". Will use a 10w30 "High-Mileage" or "Max-Life" oil in the spring, as I had good results with it last summer.

If we were better situated financially, and didn't have the leak, I'd probably have used it more during the WINTER'S (ONLY), as again -mom and her habits/conditions ARE severe.

Best of luck to `ya, hope you get some more responses here - please keep us informed of your decision/progress!

Glenn...

 

Since we know a lot of engine wear occurs at start up when there is no oil cuirculating, it seems to me that an oil that flows faster in winter has to be a good thing. As far as your 5w20 requirement, I have a real hard time believing that Ford's mass produced engines are 'tighter' than expensive European motors calling for a 0w40!

 

>I have a real hard time believing
>that Ford's mass produced engines are 'tighter' than
>expensive European motors calling for a 0w40!

Excellent point!

 

>>I have a real hard time believing
>>that Ford's mass produced engines are 'tighter' than
>>expensive European motors calling for a 0w40!
>
>Excellent point!

I agree. I think it's bunk. Granted, most modern engines are quite sophisticated, but this is a Ford truck we're talking about!

XXL

 

I would only use it where temperatures get down or below 0F.

I have used 5W30 Mobil 1 for years and been totally satisfied. I tried 0SW30 the past two winters and every time I did, the engine was noticably noisier on startup on cold mornings. But our winter temperatures in Portland Or average in the 20s-30s at night.

So at least in moderate to warm climates, I probably would not recommend using 0W30 or any 0Wxx.

Just my opnion based on only using it twice and not caring for the noise.

Jim Henderson

 

>I recently started using Mobil 1 0-30 synthetic in my 01 5.4
>F250. Was previously using same brand, 5-30 oil. Sure
>seemed like the engine had a little more pick-up and worked
>a little less hard to accomplish the same acceleration etc.
>Notice I said a little, not a lot.

I don't see how 0w-30 will give you better acceleration vs. 5W-30. Theoretically 0W-30 and 5W-30 will have the same viscosity once they are warmed up and at operation temps.

 

rgiles says
>I would expect you would see some differences at cold starts
>and minor differences at temperature when compared to the
>5w30 and 10w30 M1 alternatives.
>
>Some new Mercedes are factory filling Mobil 1 0w40 so I
>hear. It can't be too bad!

hitecdan says
>Theoretically 0W-30 and 5W-30 will have the same viscosity
>once they are warmed up and at operation temps.
I would assume then 10W-30 as well?

I know pretty much nothing about multi-viscosity oils, their additives, etc. I do know that much of this boils down to opinion. If 0W-30 and 5W-30 have the same viscosity when warm then they should provide equal protection to a running engine, - right? Why would the general recommendation then be to not use 0 wt in the summer? So then I would think that adding the benefit of better cold starting protection to the equation would be a good thing. Maybe even during summer?
My opinion has always been, buy a good quality oil, change it regularly (I have been changing the Mobile1 synthetic and filter every 3000 miles as well, I figure I spent $30,000 on the truck, a few extra bucks in oil changes is no big deal.), and you should be fine. However, I just found this website about a week and a half ago and have found that there are a lot of things I was doing that can be done a lot better. I really like hearing all your guys opinions, I learn a lot. Thanks.

 

Surprisingly if you check the 0w30 Vs the 5w30 viscosity at temperature, the 0w30 is slightly higher. I would say that qualifies it as a better all round oil. It pumps quickly in warm or cold, but holds on to the 30 weight rating better than 5w30. I think the 0wXX oils are using more esters to get this somewhat magical behavior.

You will do ver well changing a synthetic every 3000 miles, albeit it's expensive. I will use anlysis to gain confidence in running my new vehicle to 5000 miles. That way I save some money, and can sleep at night

 

What does analysis cost? Does it pay off for a person who is able to extend their change interval by a couple thousand miles? I figure an oil change with synthetic costs, what, $15-20 extra? Where can you get it done? I've never heard of it done before this forum.

 

 

Rgiles, point me to a link with those viscosity stats.

Thanks.

 

I'm not Rgiles, but here ya go. Most interesting to me is viscosity at operating temp. (100 C) for M1 5w30. Its 9.7 and the borderline between 20 and 30 weight I think is 9.3, most 5w30's are over 10.

[link:dallnd6.dal.mobil.com/Apps/DS/_39gj50ko_/MobilPDS.nsf/26b7c4b33367a4a086256665004e4266/61638dff7d0453b085256b8400618b40?OpenDocument|Mobi l Product Data Sheet]

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 13-Dec-02 AT 10:54 PM (EST)]>What does analysis cost? Does it pay off for a person who
>is able to extend their change interval by a couple thousand
>miles? I figure an oil change with synthetic costs, what,
>$15-20 extra? Where can you get it done? I've never heard
>of it done before this forum.

It's easy to do. I've used Blackstone labs and it cost around 18.50.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/index.html

They can mail you a sample kit for free and then you just pay for the shipping to their lab (~1.70). It is like getting a "blood test" for your engine since you can see how well it's wearing, and detect problems early.

I'm going to do a 3000 mile test on a new vehicle which I expect will come back ok to run to 5000. Then I'll test it again, drain and refil. The next time I will probably only test at 5000 just to get a trend analysis going.

Edit: I'm running Mobil 1 5w30, but I'm eying that 0w30 based upon specs.