1999 to 2016 Super Duty 1999 to 2016 Ford F250, F350, F450 and F550 Super Duty with diesel V8 and gas V8 and V10 engines
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

a/c compressor cutting out, but when on it blows ice cold

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-22-2009, 11:43 AM
TR6's Avatar
TR6
TR6 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
a/c compressor cutting out, but when on it blows ice cold

Truck is a 2001 7.3L superduty. Here are the symptoms: The a/c blows cold air 95% of the time, but periodically, it will start blowing cabin temp air (not cold air) as if I turned off the a/c but still have the blower running. Usually, it will cycle back on by itself after a few minutes and start blowing cold air again. I was finally able to pull over in a parking lot when it stopped blowing cold air and sure enough, the compressor had stopped turning.

My first thought was that it might be the low pressure switch cutting the compressor out. But if the truck were low on freon, would the a/c be blowing cold the other 95% of the time (as mine is)? Part of what makes it hard to diagnose is that it only does it once in a while and usually only for 2 to 5 minutes at a time. Therefore I wanted to avoid taking it to the dealer for them to run up labor hours just to tell me they can't replicate it. Any thoughts on how to diagnose this? Could low freon explain the symptoms? Bad pressure switch?
 
  #2  
Old 07-22-2009, 12:53 PM
RedBoat's Avatar
RedBoat
RedBoat is offline
Rather Be Floatin

Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Marble Falls, Tx.
Posts: 2,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You need to check the compressor clutch gap. Sound like the gap has gotten a little to wide and it wont engage. Check out these threads for info on getting it fixed.
Exact symptoms for air gap.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/50...ml#post3818335

and
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/58...ml#post4464164
 
  #3  
Old 07-22-2009, 12:55 PM
SpringerPop's Avatar
SpringerPop
SpringerPop is offline
Hotshot

Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: La La Land
Posts: 17,986
Received 188 Likes on 112 Posts
  #4  
Old 07-22-2009, 04:14 PM
TR6's Avatar
TR6
TR6 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the great info. I feel like a dummy because I only searched the superduty forum and didn't even realize there was a separate A/C forum! Great information. However, I do have a question: When you check the clutch gap, does it matter if the clutch is engaged or disengaged when you check it? Also, I'm not 100% sure where specifically to measure the gap. Is it the gap between the large diameter disc of the clutch assembly where it abuts against the rotating belt pulley? I wish I could post a photo with an arrow pointing to where I'm talking about.
 
  #5  
Old 07-22-2009, 05:06 PM
jim henderson's Avatar
jim henderson
jim henderson is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: So Cal
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
wouldn't hurt to check freon level too. If you have a guage, this is a quick easy test.

Strangely, one possible symptom of low freon is too cold air. My dad's old 65dodge used to get ice around the metal outlets. The mechanic checked and it was low on freon. I think the cutout makes this less common, but you could be in a "between" zone of low freon and cutout.

Low freon will cause the cutout to switch once in awhile and happen longer and more often as the leak progresses.

I never had to check the clutch gap so can't say there.

Good Luck

Jim Henderson
 
  #6  
Old 07-22-2009, 08:23 PM
SpringerPop's Avatar
SpringerPop
SpringerPop is offline
Hotshot

Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: La La Land
Posts: 17,986
Received 188 Likes on 112 Posts
Originally Posted by TR6
When you check the clutch gap, does it matter if the clutch is engaged or disengaged when you check it? Also, I'm not 100% sure where specifically to measure the gap. Is it the gap between the large diameter disc of the clutch assembly where it abuts against the rotating belt pulley? I wish I could post a photo with an arrow pointing to where I'm talking about.
The clutch must be disengaged, i.e., the compressor not turning.

You've got the correct idea about where the air gap is.

Check the air gap with the engine turned OFF! Safety first.

Pop
 
  #7  
Old 07-23-2009, 08:16 PM
TR6's Avatar
TR6
TR6 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I just checked the gap. I can slide up to a .045 gauge into the gap. Do you think that's enough to cause a sporadic problem? It doesn't do it all the time. In fact, in the last two days, it hasn't done it at all.
 
  #8  
Old 07-23-2009, 11:01 PM
SpringerPop's Avatar
SpringerPop
SpringerPop is offline
Hotshot

Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: La La Land
Posts: 17,986
Received 188 Likes on 112 Posts
Yes, that's about when problems can begin.

Twenty-five thousandths would be a much better figure.

Pop
 
  #9  
Old 07-24-2009, 07:31 PM
BoiledCrabs's Avatar
BoiledCrabs
BoiledCrabs is offline
New User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have the same truck and just had the same problem. Clutch went out on the compressor. I went ahead and rebuilt the whole system. Cost about $600 parts and labor.
 
  #10  
Old 07-24-2009, 08:01 PM
Mustang6147's Avatar
Mustang6147
Mustang6147 is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I would say it might be time for a new dryer also, and an inline filter...
After you fix the gap, you may want to replace those items then have the system vacuumed and charged...

Thats along time for a dryer anyways
 
  #11  
Old 07-24-2009, 11:24 PM
dstig1's Avatar
dstig1
dstig1 is offline
More Turbo
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: W. Wisc
Posts: 530
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Clutch spec is 0.014-0.030". Yes 0.045" is well out. Pull the clutch and take a shim out. It seems to be a bigger probelm when the clutch heats up.

If that works, you do not need to crack the sealed system and replace the drier or anything else. Clutches wear, ya know...

-dave
 
  #12  
Old 07-24-2009, 11:36 PM
Parts Guy Wyatt's Avatar
Parts Guy Wyatt
Parts Guy Wyatt is offline
Former Vendor
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,849
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
some of these has a bad connection at the Feild (magnet) might be worth a shot.

if you confirm what it is maybe I can save you a few bucks on parts so visit my site.

Ed

ps: Hi Marv and Costa
 
  #13  
Old 07-25-2009, 04:57 PM
TR6's Avatar
TR6
TR6 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Okay, I did the shimectomy today. Was amazingly easy to do. There was only one shim (washer) in there. I removed it. I also measured the shim I removed. It's thickness was .039. That seems kind of thick given that the original air gap I measured was .045. So after I put everything back together (minus the shim), I measured the new air gap and found it was about .010. That seems kind of tight, but I turned the a/c on and off a few times and the clutch is doing what it's supposed to do. So I guess I'm good. Time will tell.

Thanks for the help!
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jwhopson
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
7
08-20-2015 05:57 PM
jllaco
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
18
05-30-2013 11:57 AM
jllaco
Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300
7
05-24-2013 11:27 PM
Pookie's Dad
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
12
05-16-2007 09:02 PM
iracekx
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
52
08-19-2006 06:47 AM



Quick Reply: a/c compressor cutting out, but when on it blows ice cold



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:34 PM.