Front Hub Help
Thread Starter
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Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
From: Surrey, BC
Front Hub Help
Hey guys,
Dave from BD Diesel here, got my brothers 2000 7.3 and front hubs are leaking, are these rebuildable or is it easier to just buy new ones.
Sorry guys a little green on the hubs
Dave from BD Diesel here, got my brothers 2000 7.3 and front hubs are leaking, are these rebuildable or is it easier to just buy new ones.
Sorry guys a little green on the hubs
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,220
Likes: 0
From: VA
If you are talking about vacuum issues you can fix it. Main bearing issues means you will need a new unit. Needle bearings can be replaced inside as well. Give us a little more info like what exactly is leaking, vacuum or some fluid, and any other info you can give us.
Thread Starter
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Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
From: Surrey, BC
Sorry guys, I should know better, but trying help a bro out and work the phones at the same time.. NEVER seal to family LOL
The truck is 4x4 and is leaking vacuum, he said the hub assembly may be cracked on the outside so I am thinking new hub assembly. Been quoted on a seal kit but am think hub assembly or is it recommended to do the seals while in there?
The truck is 4x4 and is leaking vacuum, he said the hub assembly may be cracked on the outside so I am thinking new hub assembly. Been quoted on a seal kit but am think hub assembly or is it recommended to do the seals while in there?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
He needs to determine where the leak is if possible. Could be as simple as a bad O-ring on the locking hub or a rotten vaccum line, could be as big as having to replace the PITA seal in the knuckle.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,220
Likes: 0
From: VA
I replaced the knuckle seal myself for the first time a few months ago and it wasnt too bad, but you definitely need to check those lines first before you start spending the big money.
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Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
From: Surrey, BC
I seen the hub lastnight, it is actually cracked right at the white ring that goes around the outside of the hub, took a pic and e-mailed it to work but it was not in my in box this morning.
I found this... needle bearing service http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/nblube.php<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o>
I hate not knowing what I am talking about...
I found this... needle bearing service http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/nblube.php<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>I hate not knowing what I am talking about...
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
You may be able to just replace the hub and its O-rings and be good. While you are at it though, replace the vac lines coming from the frame to the hub- they are prone to rotting and new vac hose is cheap. 4' (that's 1.2 meters 
) should do the trick. Also turn the wheel to full lock each way and check the knuckle seal, if they are bad you can usually see it.
) should do the trick. Also turn the wheel to full lock each way and check the knuckle seal, if they are bad you can usually see it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 147
From: San Diego, CA
The knuckle seal is the inner seal (ball joint side of the knuckle) that is pressed onto the axle and makes the inner seal (on the hub) to hold vacuum when the ESOF pulses it. If you get a new OEM hub, it will come with a new yellow o-ring (hub to knuckle seal) and new hub to knuckle studs. Just put new hubs on my rig since I was already in there doing ball joints. If you don't want to do OEM, I know there are hubs at http://www.rockauto.com/.
If you don't need to pull the knuckle you might want to leave your vacuum lines alone. If they are working okay, they probably won't after you pull them off the knuckle (common cracking point).
If there are still vacuum issues after the hub is replaced, here are some links to recent thread activity for ESOF problems:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...cume-leak.html (post #6 has the links)
Hope this helps some. ESOF problems are a PITA!
If you don't need to pull the knuckle you might want to leave your vacuum lines alone. If they are working okay, they probably won't after you pull them off the knuckle (common cracking point).
If there are still vacuum issues after the hub is replaced, here are some links to recent thread activity for ESOF problems:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...cume-leak.html (post #6 has the links)
Hope this helps some. ESOF problems are a PITA!
Because racetruck
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 104
From: Monterey Bay, CA
You can also just replace them with Warn manual hubs and cap the vacuum lines. Granted you have to get out and lock them but you also never have to worry about them breaking again,
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
If you get an entire hub assembly from the parts house (a Timkin 515020), it doesn't come with new attach studs, and you are well-advised to pick up some from your friendly dealership. About $16, and well-worth-it!
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