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Few means some. Who were they? At any rate, it would not seem to matter because we cannot get seals to replace the bad ones anyway. I just want to look in that expensive POS before I take it to the metal recycler since there is no core return anyway. Thanks.
My Ford hubs had 181K when I replaced them, and that was just for peace of mind since I was going in to do ball joints. I bought OEM replacements figuring I can get a good 10 years out of them (part number 3C3Z-1104-BA). The new hub assembly comes with the yellow o-ring seal for the hub to knuckle. There's also the axle to (inner) hub seal that is a PITA to remove. This is the one that people make the "special" tool for from the home depot plumbing section. Lastly, there is a black o-ring that goes on the locking hub. Those are the 3 seals and I replaced them all when I did my ball joints. New hubs, new seals and my ESOF is locking the hubs just fine.
EDIT
Originally Posted by Tenn01PSD350
Few means some. Who were they? At any rate, it would not seem to matter because we cannot get seals to replace the bad ones anyway. I just want to look in that expensive POS before I take it to the metal recycler since there is no core return anyway. Thanks.
Seals for the ESOF:
O-ring for locking hub (black o-ring that goes on the locking hub before you install it) 4C3Z-1K106-AA MSRP $16.63 (aka hub cavity o-ring)
Hub to knuckle seal (yellow o-ring that goes on the hub before you install it) F81Z-4A322-AA MSRP $8.22 (comes with a new hub assembly)
Hub seal (inner hub to axle seal that goes on the axle before you put it back through the knuckle into the axle housing) F81Z-3254-CB MSRP $44.92
Hub assembly 3C3Z-1104-BA MSRP $350.73 (the assembly includes a new yellow hub to knuckle seal o-ring and new hub to knuckle studs)
Those are the 3 seals you need for your ESOF at the wheels (besides the hose from the plastic line in the engine bay to the knuckle itself.
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