clutch problems
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 476
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From: Bellingham, WA
clutch problems
So I have a 1997 F350 diesel manual. have had clutch issuses for awhile recently posted "bleeding slave cylinder" and i did that no real change. my friend has the same truck gets much more throw with his i measured down on the transmission the slave cylinder throws out a good 1/2 inch more then mine!! so i have a couple new questions!!! can the master cylinder be bad if there are no signs of leaks? also the metal "arm" in the cab that attaches to the master cylinder rod, wondering the postion on that. i replaced that awhile ago as well as the plastic bushing. it now sits pretty much straight up and down when the clutch pedal is not engaged??????????? there must be something external because it's just not trowing out like it should!! thanks for any imput!!
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 782
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From: Olympia, WA
So I have a 1997 F350 diesel manual. have had clutch issuses for awhile recently posted "bleeding slave cylinder" and i did that no real change. my friend has the same truck gets much more throw with his i measured down on the transmission the slave cylinder throws out a good 1/2 inch more then mine!! so i have a couple new questions!!! can the master cylinder be bad if there are no signs of leaks? also the metal "arm" in the cab that attaches to the master cylinder rod, wondering the postion on that. i replaced that awhile ago as well as the plastic bushing. it now sits pretty much straight up and down when the clutch pedal is not engaged??????????? there must be something external because it's just not trowing out like it should!! thanks for any imput!!
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
I put on one of the metal Rod things that replaces the bushing, and it just caused more issues for me...
now it would not start at all, even when banging the clutch dow, so i just put a jumper between the two terminals....
the truck is harder to get into gear now too.... i think ill have to replace the master cylinder, because all the pedal bushings that are in the pedal assembly have been replaced too.
now it would not start at all, even when banging the clutch dow, so i just put a jumper between the two terminals....
the truck is harder to get into gear now too.... i think ill have to replace the master cylinder, because all the pedal bushings that are in the pedal assembly have been replaced too.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: MICHIGAN
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
Get one of these....CLICK HERE. It's permanent repair for that POS plastic bushing.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
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From: MICHIGAN
If you cut off too much there might not be enough throw on the master cyl to allow the slave to disengage the clutch.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
I actually think i may not have cut enough off... i did it right at the end of the circluar part... the hardest part though was getting a straight cut with my die grinder under there. not much room even with a 1 inch cutoff wheel.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
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From: MICHIGAN
That will cause trouble with the neutral safety switch making it almost impossible to start w/o a jumper wire. Either way, you should try it again. I have installed 5-6 of them with no trouble....knock-on-wood 
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
Yeah, i will eventually, but When I do i will pull the cylinder out and use the bench grinder instead.... make it much easier and a cleaner cut... Might just buy a new one for the price they are and cut it and then swap them out one day, im just scared of the bleeding of the system...
I can bleed brakes no issue, but i have never had a hydrolic clutch system so its completely different for me.
I can bleed brakes no issue, but i have never had a hydrolic clutch system so its completely different for me.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
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From: MICHIGAN
I usually replace the master, slave and hose in one piece. No bleeding necessary....
Try this before you re-do it.
Clutch Master Cylinder Push Rod Adjustment
To determine if the clutch master cylinder push rod and clutch master cylinder lever pin are in the correct relationship, disconnect the push rod and note if it will reassemble to the pin. When the push rod is disconnected from the pin, the clutch master cylinder piston is fully retracted rearward and the clutch pedal blade is contacting the rubber bumper UP stop.
If the two components are not in alignment, perform the following only in this sequence:
Tighten left side clutch pedal attaching nut.
Install clutch master cylinder push rod to the clutch push rod bracket pin.
NOTE: This step is mandatory.
Stroke clutch pedal (7519) several times to reset position of shaft to pedal slot.
Again, remove the clutch master cylinder push rod from clutch master cylinder lever pin and evaluate alignment. If the two components are still not in alignment, replace the clutch push rod lever. If the push rod is aligned with the pin, no further action is required.
Try this before you re-do it.
Clutch Master Cylinder Push Rod Adjustment
To determine if the clutch master cylinder push rod and clutch master cylinder lever pin are in the correct relationship, disconnect the push rod and note if it will reassemble to the pin. When the push rod is disconnected from the pin, the clutch master cylinder piston is fully retracted rearward and the clutch pedal blade is contacting the rubber bumper UP stop.
If the two components are not in alignment, perform the following only in this sequence:
Tighten left side clutch pedal attaching nut.
Install clutch master cylinder push rod to the clutch push rod bracket pin.
NOTE: This step is mandatory.
Stroke clutch pedal (7519) several times to reset position of shaft to pedal slot.
Again, remove the clutch master cylinder push rod from clutch master cylinder lever pin and evaluate alignment. If the two components are still not in alignment, replace the clutch push rod lever. If the push rod is aligned with the pin, no further action is required.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 476
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From: Bellingham, WA
thanks kuda_jim your clutch master cylinder rod adjustment made me realize that could be my main problem, because when i replased that piece cause it was warn i was having this same issuses as now, but i put it back in the spot it was in origianally which means it problaly spun abit because i have to push my clutch pedal down some to get the arm to match up with the cylinder rod i won't be able to look at it till tomorrow evening but that got me abit excited i'm hopin it helps!! if it does and i get that figured out, allignment wise, the bushing replacment thing looks killer!!! thanks again!
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 98
From: Ashland City, TN
Yea, you shouldn't have to move the pedal at all when attaching the cylinder to the pedal.
if you had to push your pedal in, that will give you that much less throw. =)
Jim's instructions got me lost. I duno why.
if you had to push your pedal in, that will give you that much less throw. =)
Jim's instructions got me lost. I duno why.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 476
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From: Bellingham, WA
yeah me too kinda, i'm gonna just pull my arm off and move it abit, hope it holds cause since it presses on and creates it owns splines, i may have to get a new one. but it should hold long enough to feel the differnece hopefully!