89 BII A4LD issues continue.
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89 BII A4LD issues continue.
Posted on a different forum as well. I'm trying to get as many fresh ideas on how to figure out this pig. Short of shelling out a few hundred bucks for another A4LD from the salvage yard.
We went to the local "Yard o' Parts" and found a decent A4LD out of a new(er) ranger with the 4x4. Which doesn't make a difference, he sells them without the tail extension or transfer case. (swapped ours onto it) It went flawless, but had a strange "Warble" sound that several well known shops couldn't figure out---but blamed the engine/mounts/balance of the engine/etc... Basically they where guessing.
Anywho--Heading back on a 60 mile trip? Started blowing blue smoke/smoke out the rear of the BII. Figured it had to be engine related. It wasn't. Made it all the way home, and this A4LD shifted flawless---Until the next day when I checked the fluid, wasn't even near the dipstick. Put 'er into "D"...and slippppppppppppppppppped. had to let it sit at idle for a few minutes, and then it went into "D" like nothing happened? Nursed it over to the family "shop". And inspected the damage.
Front seal intact, found converter out of balance/alignment due to that stupid designed spacer with the pilot. Turns out it was only 1/2 there, and the converter wedged slightly when we installed it. Would have been great if a shop had figured that part out, and just loosened the T/C and reset it back into place. As it stands? Front bushing totally crap--T/C's pump "snout" had a score mark 1" long at 1/2" wide from the rubbing.
I purchased a replacement T/C, Bushing, gaskets for the pump to housing, etc.. Had to outsource the bellhousing/pump assy to a very well spoken of shop--they installed the new bushing, cleaned/inspected the pump and verified it was still "good", and realigned everything.
Fast forward: Used the ATSG guide book, and correctly installed the front thrust washer, gasket, and rubber seal...new o-rings on the bolts as well. Everything to spec. Changed fluid and filter (usual gray snot on the pan as expected) Test drove it, and it went fair. Here's the current issues:
Goes into reverse strong, seems weak when it goes into drive/overdrive. Doesn't slip in first gear---heck, it won't SHIFT out of first gear either!! Unless you have the selector in manual "2", then it works 1st to 2nd. But put 'er into either drive or O/D? And it reverts directly to first gear.
Now just before it did that? When it was actually shifting--- It hit all gears and T/C lockup normally---(kinda high for the RPM from the old T/C, just by 300 RPM). If you maintain 55-70 mph, and hit even a slight grade in the road? It would appear to kick back and forth from 4th (O/D) to 3rd like clockwork. Could it be the T/C clutch also appearing to have the same effect? I'm not sure, It just feels like 4th downshifting to 3rd..upshifting to 4th...downshift...rinse and repeat.. It did that several times before it did the "I don't wanna shift out of first gear" bit.
FYI, the shift select is 100%. And I'm not sure who did the last adjustment on the throttle kick-down lever? You could floor the gas pedal--and the lever didn't even twitch. Due to having no reference on the adjustment? (and the fact it wasn't shifting right anyway) We winged it. I released the ratchet 'clamp' at the firewall, punched the gas to the floor...and it ratcheted back into place. (it now moves to it's fullest extent when the gas is on the floor). Also checked the modulator valve hose. Nice and tight connections, and no fluid in the tube.
It's been parked for a couple of weeks while I've been getting over the flu bug--and using the wife's Hyn. Tibby and our restoration project '75 F250. (looks like a rusted hulk from the doors back LOL...but at 9 miles a gallon? Can't do that for much longer)
Here's the plan, and feel free to CHIME IN WITH HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS!! (and NOT "Swap a manual into it" We CAN NOT get the parts in my area, I checked already!)
Picked up a transmission pressure gauge set. Going to record pressures first.
Drop the pan, inspect for carnage.. Remove the bolt for the filter and re-torque down. Just in case it's to tight, and binding valve action.
Change out the Vacuum mod valve. (it was only $14 at the parts store...might as well get it over with LOL)
I'm considering hosing the batcrap out of the valve body, every nook and cranny with brake-cleaner. Just incase anything got kicked free and is blocking anything. I figure hose the snot out of it, and let it "dry" for about 30 minutes before putting the pan back on.
Reassemble, refill....and once everything is back together? Redo the pressure tests and see if anything changed. The pressures might be right for all I know? But it's one more test to attempt to figure this pain in the rear end out.
That's the plan...Any input is very welcome!!
S-
We went to the local "Yard o' Parts" and found a decent A4LD out of a new(er) ranger with the 4x4. Which doesn't make a difference, he sells them without the tail extension or transfer case. (swapped ours onto it) It went flawless, but had a strange "Warble" sound that several well known shops couldn't figure out---but blamed the engine/mounts/balance of the engine/etc... Basically they where guessing.
Anywho--Heading back on a 60 mile trip? Started blowing blue smoke/smoke out the rear of the BII. Figured it had to be engine related. It wasn't. Made it all the way home, and this A4LD shifted flawless---Until the next day when I checked the fluid, wasn't even near the dipstick. Put 'er into "D"...and slippppppppppppppppppped. had to let it sit at idle for a few minutes, and then it went into "D" like nothing happened? Nursed it over to the family "shop". And inspected the damage.
Front seal intact, found converter out of balance/alignment due to that stupid designed spacer with the pilot. Turns out it was only 1/2 there, and the converter wedged slightly when we installed it. Would have been great if a shop had figured that part out, and just loosened the T/C and reset it back into place. As it stands? Front bushing totally crap--T/C's pump "snout" had a score mark 1" long at 1/2" wide from the rubbing.
I purchased a replacement T/C, Bushing, gaskets for the pump to housing, etc.. Had to outsource the bellhousing/pump assy to a very well spoken of shop--they installed the new bushing, cleaned/inspected the pump and verified it was still "good", and realigned everything.
Fast forward: Used the ATSG guide book, and correctly installed the front thrust washer, gasket, and rubber seal...new o-rings on the bolts as well. Everything to spec. Changed fluid and filter (usual gray snot on the pan as expected) Test drove it, and it went fair. Here's the current issues:
Goes into reverse strong, seems weak when it goes into drive/overdrive. Doesn't slip in first gear---heck, it won't SHIFT out of first gear either!! Unless you have the selector in manual "2", then it works 1st to 2nd. But put 'er into either drive or O/D? And it reverts directly to first gear.
Now just before it did that? When it was actually shifting--- It hit all gears and T/C lockup normally---(kinda high for the RPM from the old T/C, just by 300 RPM). If you maintain 55-70 mph, and hit even a slight grade in the road? It would appear to kick back and forth from 4th (O/D) to 3rd like clockwork. Could it be the T/C clutch also appearing to have the same effect? I'm not sure, It just feels like 4th downshifting to 3rd..upshifting to 4th...downshift...rinse and repeat.. It did that several times before it did the "I don't wanna shift out of first gear" bit.
FYI, the shift select is 100%. And I'm not sure who did the last adjustment on the throttle kick-down lever? You could floor the gas pedal--and the lever didn't even twitch. Due to having no reference on the adjustment? (and the fact it wasn't shifting right anyway) We winged it. I released the ratchet 'clamp' at the firewall, punched the gas to the floor...and it ratcheted back into place. (it now moves to it's fullest extent when the gas is on the floor). Also checked the modulator valve hose. Nice and tight connections, and no fluid in the tube.
It's been parked for a couple of weeks while I've been getting over the flu bug--and using the wife's Hyn. Tibby and our restoration project '75 F250. (looks like a rusted hulk from the doors back LOL...but at 9 miles a gallon? Can't do that for much longer)
Here's the plan, and feel free to CHIME IN WITH HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS!! (and NOT "Swap a manual into it" We CAN NOT get the parts in my area, I checked already!)
Picked up a transmission pressure gauge set. Going to record pressures first.
Drop the pan, inspect for carnage.. Remove the bolt for the filter and re-torque down. Just in case it's to tight, and binding valve action.
Change out the Vacuum mod valve. (it was only $14 at the parts store...might as well get it over with LOL)
I'm considering hosing the batcrap out of the valve body, every nook and cranny with brake-cleaner. Just incase anything got kicked free and is blocking anything. I figure hose the snot out of it, and let it "dry" for about 30 minutes before putting the pan back on.
Reassemble, refill....and once everything is back together? Redo the pressure tests and see if anything changed. The pressures might be right for all I know? But it's one more test to attempt to figure this pain in the rear end out.
That's the plan...Any input is very welcome!!
S-
