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I have an 02 4door, 4x4 with severe rear end vibration when I go up a steep cornered hill. If I'm climbing striat up it is ok, but once I start turning the whole truck shakes. I can feel it coming from the rear end but am not sure what it is. I have hear U-joints but I don't know. Where is that located? I had my bearings replaced in the rear differential a month ago. Is replacing U-joints real tough? Any Ideas on that? Also can't get the tie rod end off that connects to the steering arm. Should I take the entire rod off that goes from steering arm to passenger side? I've hammered the bolt but it doesn't budge.
I'm guessing you need put some additive in the rear end to keep the limited slip from chattering. It's available from Ford in a little bottle, you add 1/2 ounce at a time until the chattering stops. The U-joints are the X shaped pieces that connect the driveshaft to the front or rear axle. Easy to check- with the truck in N (block the tires or set the E-brake! ) try to twist the driveline and watch for movement. The driveshaft should not move without the yoke on the axle moving, but I don't think thats your problem.
Which tie rod are you trying to remove? What I usually do is leave the nut on threaded out to the end of the threads so I have a bigger surface to hit and no chance of messing up the threads. Rap the nut a few times with a good sized hammer and it should pop loose. Some penetrating oil (let it soak in for a few minutes) between the tie rod end and where it seats might help too.
Well when I had the bearings put in, the mechanic told me the limited slip clutches were worn out. So is that why it is vibrating so bad? Am I damaging anything by leaving it that way? I could put the fluid in there but i don't know if it'd do much with them burnt out
That could be why its vibrating. I have no idea if it will hurt to continue to run that way (new to the LS diffs myself) but worse case scenario I can see is you'll lose your limited slip. The additive sure won't hurt and isn't that expensive I don't think.
If your LS is already gone you can't do any more damage but I'd try to put some additive in to see if that will help.
As for the tie rod... are you trying to get the ball joint part of the tie rod out of the pitman arm?? If you are, you should use a ball joint/tie rod separator to get them apart...
If your LS is already gone you can't do any more damage but I'd try to put some additive in to see if that will help.
As for the tie rod... are you trying to get the ball joint part of the tie rod out of the pitman arm?? If you are, you should use a ball joint/tie rod separator to get them apart...
Not a pickle fork though, or you risk damaging the boots. Not an issue if you are going to replace the part.
Not a pickle fork though, or you risk damaging the boots. Not an issue if you are going to replace the part.
I am trying to take off the tie rod end, but am considering taking the whole thing. It does have a boot on it, so i guess it is the ball joint. What is a tie rod/ball joint seperator? Is there any other way to get it off without spending money on the tool? Also, would I need to drain any of the fluid in the rear end to put the additive in?
I am trying to take off the tie rod end, but am considering taking the whole thing. It does have a boot on it, so i guess it is the ball joint. What is a tie rod/ball joint seperator? Is there any other way to get it off without spending money on the tool? Also, would I need to drain any of the fluid in the rear end to put the additive in?
You want to remove the tie rod end on the passenger side of the truck? Get a large wrench, socket or crescent and crack the jamb nut loose (tightens down against the long tube the tie rod end is attached to). Now loosen the nut that holds the tie rod end into the knuckle until the nut is even with the top of the stud (no threads sticking out above the nut). Get a decent sized hammer and hit the nut until the tie rod end pops loose. Now you can unthread the nut on the tie rod end stud and drop it out of the knuckle. Then unthread the tie rod end from what it's attached to (count the number of turns you make). Is that what you are trying to do?
The ball joints are what connects the steering knuckle to the axle tube. You're gonna have a lot of stuff to remove before you can pop the knuckle loose.
No need to drain any diff fluid to add the anti slip additive, you'll only be adding 1/2 ounce at a time.
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