My serpentine belt is getting really bad now so I need to replace it. I tried replacing it a ways back, and when I did the new belt kept almost slipping off of the tensioner pulley. The old belt doesn't do this but any new belt that I've put in there has done this. Must have something to do with the new belts having more tension than the old one. Plus, you guys mentioned about trying to replace the tensioner since it might have become "cockeyed" over the years and that's why it may have trouble holding a tighter belt in place. Anyway, I was wondering how difficult this is going to be? It looks like I just remove one bolt to get it off. Is that the case? I think getting to it may end up being the biggest pain. Any advice on this would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Piece of cake. I think there is just one or two bolts holding it on, but I could be mistaken. It shouldn't be any more than $30 or so.... you'll be fine.

 

When I put the new one on, Is there a certain guideline as far as making sure it goes on exactly the way the old one was on there? Is it just a matter of getting it as close as I can to the way the old one was on there? Or does it not matter since it's spring loaded? I'm talking about the position of the pulley. Thanks.

 

We sell brand new ones (not rebuilts) for your truck.Here's a link to them on our site.If you have any questions just contact me and I'd be glad to help.

Ford Ranger Belt Tensioner

 

Nope, just have to bolt it in and the spring does the rest.

You'll do fine... it's a piece of cake.

 

LOL Famous last words.
Let me tell you my horror story from today.
94 Ranger with the 2.3. I bought a replacement tensioner a couple years ago ($60 if I remember correctly), as I thought the bearings felt like they were going south. So now I have a second vehicle and I want to get the Ranger fixed, then fix up the second one (possibly selling). The center bolt (one) is a T50 (if I remember correctly and you will see why). No go, I try to fit the whole set (with reasonably small) and grab a mirror to find the bolt is stripped out. I try switching to a torx plus (Snap-on) and it just spins in the bolt hole.
Ok, next, try to find and use an allen. No luck. Time to break out the welder.
Not much room to try to get lined up. So get a nut and a bolt that just fills the hole. Weld the nut on, unscrew the bolt (left enough of the outside of the nut to grab), fill the center, and try to remove. Nut breaks off.
Second try (slightly different method), nut breaks off.
Ok, so I am thinking I can't get on it straight enough. I might have to remove the radiator, let me think......

Pull out the airbox, pull off the alternator, end up completely pulling off the bracket that holds the tensioner. Place it in the vise, solidly weld a nut on there, and it breaks off. Grab a bigger nut, hold with vise grips, weld the center (flatten the bolt) weld the nut to it. Fill the nut, let cool a bit, run under water..............
The nut breaks off (what did they make this bolt out of, and why doesn't it use a regular head?)...........
PO'd and running out of time. Grab the air chisel, start to clean off all the bolt and say FI, hold it in one spot (thinking I will have to replace the whole bracket) and it finally catches and starts spinning.
Put some antiseize on the new one (plan on getting a regular bolt), place on, and slap the bracket back on and put partially back together. I will have to finish it early in the morning before work.

I still have to replace the shackles and brackets in the back, then I am replacing all the body mounts (one's half gone so I am doing them all).

This SHOULD be easy. If it isn't, it will go south in a hurry.

 

lol... this sounds like my first experience with a left-threaded bolt.



I would have just replaced the whole bracket... much easier that way.

 

It gave you a good fight did it.

 

Well, just to update you guys, I changed my belt and tensioner today. I didn't want to take any chances with stripping the bolt so I sprayed some liquid wrench right on the bolt and let it soak for a little bit. That did the trick! The biggest PITA was squeezing my hand and arm down there to get to it and put in the new one. I got one of those gatorback belts as well since I've heard good things about them. Everything works great. The new belt isn't trying to slide off the new tensioner pulley like it was with the old one. Replaced everything in an Advance Auto Parts parking lot since I don't have a garage. lol They didn't bitch about it, thankfully. Anyway, thanks for all your help on this guys. Now time to tackle to the sway bar links.