My warn hub caught fire...
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From: VA
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From: NW NJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by ironmine
There is no bearing at the end of the axle tube ..... I think the bearing is where the axle tube meets the differential.
The inner end of the axle is supported by the spider gears in the differential, there's no bearing there.
Originally Posted by ironmine
There is no bearing at the end of the axle tube ..... I think the bearing is where the axle tube meets the differential.
The inner end of the axle is supported by the spider gears in the differential, there's no bearing there.
Originally Posted by dkf
By "greaseable" I mean grease and external grease fitting. I know you can tear into the hub and grease the bearings it would just be nice if you could put a couple shots of grease in every oil change or every other oil change to keep things lubed. I got bearing buddies on all my trailers and they are the chit for keeping the bearings greased.
I wanted to be sure you didn't discover a way to get the hubs apart to get to the bearings.
I wanted to talk to Timken Bearing about these hubs, but I get the feeling they've had layoffs (in USA, anyway). When I was in industry, I could get into their engineering department anytime. Now I'm getting run arounds on the phone requiring an account, and the few email addresses I knew for individual engineers are no longer valid.
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From: Spring Lake
Hey guys! Wow I never got a notification there have been updates to this thread, and yes, I did get a job! Hence my lack of being around the forum... I spend so much time in front of a computer at work the thought of going home and looking at a comp monitor makes me want to punt infants off an overpass...
Well I haven't actually dealt with this yet, I need to pull the front diff cover. if every thing is still intact in there (which I highly doubt due to my getting stuck in a ditch before this happened) I will change out the hub. Lately I'm trying to keep the truck hidden from the repo man until I get caught up on bills!
But I'll post pics of the inside of the diff, I have never tore into one so I'm a little nervous about it. Also I'm sure that even if the diff wasn't bad it is now due to my axle flopping all over, and I need a new spline portion of the axle shaft for certain (it's kinda all flaked away). Thanks for the updates, I'll read them all when I get home, and hopefully no infants will be around
Well I haven't actually dealt with this yet, I need to pull the front diff cover. if every thing is still intact in there (which I highly doubt due to my getting stuck in a ditch before this happened) I will change out the hub. Lately I'm trying to keep the truck hidden from the repo man until I get caught up on bills!
But I'll post pics of the inside of the diff, I have never tore into one so I'm a little nervous about it. Also I'm sure that even if the diff wasn't bad it is now due to my axle flopping all over, and I need a new spline portion of the axle shaft for certain (it's kinda all flaked away). Thanks for the updates, I'll read them all when I get home, and hopefully no infants will be around
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From: Spring Lake
Many moons ago I tried pulling the abs sensor to do said job, needless to say the iron moss did a better job of pinning it in there and I bought a new hub 
But regardless I need a new hub, and ideas in what a complete Dana 60 would cost out of a scrap yard with knuckles and hubs would cost. Local yards do not have an SD's
But regardless I need a new hub, and ideas in what a complete Dana 60 would cost out of a scrap yard with knuckles and hubs would cost. Local yards do not have an SD's
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From: Mt. Shasta California
Many moons ago I tried pulling the abs sensor to do said job, needless to say the iron moss did a better job of pinning it in there and I bought a new hub
But regardless I need a new hub, and ideas in what a complete Dana 60 would cost out of a scrap yard with knuckles and hubs would cost. Local yards do not have an SD's
But regardless I need a new hub, and ideas in what a complete Dana 60 would cost out of a scrap yard with knuckles and hubs would cost. Local yards do not have an SD's
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Mt. Shasta California
Thats if you have ABS on the front...if not, http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/nblube.php
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From: Spring Lake
You must not be from the rust belt... thats local for rust. The reason I want a whole Dana 60 is:
1. Hubs are rusted on again, I tried pulling them and once again need a 5 ton puller... despite the bottle of antiseze I put on the back of them buggers
2. I can hear the gears flopping around inside the front pig when I turn the driver side axle, nothing when I turn the passenger...
3. I need the long drive shaft
4. I have done the ball joints once before, I think the entire job will be much easier to unbolt the axle from the leafs and 2 tie rods vs. the fight of doing it in-truck.
1. Hubs are rusted on again, I tried pulling them and once again need a 5 ton puller... despite the bottle of antiseze I put on the back of them buggers
2. I can hear the gears flopping around inside the front pig when I turn the driver side axle, nothing when I turn the passenger...
3. I need the long drive shaft
4. I have done the ball joints once before, I think the entire job will be much easier to unbolt the axle from the leafs and 2 tie rods vs. the fight of doing it in-truck.
You Keep What You Kill
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From: Huntersville, NC
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From: The Land Of Time
I know being from the rust belt as well that these things can be a PITA. But 1100 buckss for a complete axel + shipping and/or fuel and time to get there and back + the gear swap you will need to do = a bigger PITA in my book then just spending a few bucks to repair what you got. Sure it may have 38k on it, but 4.88 and some sterring component work. How do you know it doesnt need other work too. Musta had some bigger tires on it, heavy offroading etc.
I would stick with what you got...and know.
Sarge
I would stick with what you got...and know.
Sarge
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From: Mt. Shasta California
The rust belt? I am assuming that is in the East where they put salt on the roads to melt the ice. Here in CA and OR they sand the roads and then sweep it back up in the spring but they allow studs in the tires in the winter also. I wonder why they use salt back there and not here? (not that I am complaining).
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From: Spring Lake
The rust belt? I am assuming that is in the East where they put salt on the roads to melt the ice. Here in CA and OR they sand the roads and then sweep it back up in the spring but they allow studs in the tires in the winter also. I wonder why they use salt back there and not here? (not that I am complaining).
yeah i'm in mi... where the only thing that sucks worse than our roads is the economy. However the salt on the roads plays hell on anything made of steel... they only use sand when its been below the functioning point of salt ( i think its 15 degrees) for an extended period of time.
But pretty much i believe its the salt that killed my front end, you can see it inside the tubes still
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From: Trenton, MI
Wow that hub I never see like that before. You would be better rebuilt that axle.
This 01 F250 got rust in 2004 here result of what salt done to fender. We replace rear axle's diff covers 3 times because it got rot and start leak. And it not plow truck. If it was plow truck then that fender would GONE.
The rust belt? I am assuming that is in the East where they put salt on the roads to melt the ice. Here in CA and OR they sand the roads and then sweep it back up in the spring but they allow studs in the tires in the winter also. I wonder why they use salt back there and not here? (not that I am complaining).
This 01 F250 got rust in 2004 here result of what salt done to fender. We replace rear axle's diff covers 3 times because it got rot and start leak. And it not plow truck. If it was plow truck then that fender would GONE.