92' F150 5speed 4x4

All the other cars i've ever owned had this mounted on the outside of the transmission.

How big of a job is this and is there a really good post which kind of walks through any issues? I read a few but very little detail. Could be that my searches just weren't that great.

If i take this on i was thinking of buying a transmissin jack adapter that would sit on my floor jack as i imagine the transmission is heavy and tough to align w/o it. Also while i'm at it i guess i should look at replacing the clutch, etc.

This would be my first attempt at pulling a xmission.

 

well its time consuming on the first time but not necessarily hard...i suggest draining fluids and pulling the t-case off the tranny first then pull the tranny, you have to pull the stick shift out and you can go through there to get at the top bellhousing bolts, you have to remove the starter drive shafts and the hydraulic clutch line

and if you need to get a tranny lift get a good adjustable one, these trannys can be tricky to line up, definitely the most time consuming part but its hit and miss, sometimes you get lucky, also get some cinch straps and when you put the jack up under the tranny before you remove it strap the tranny onto the lift so it doesnt move as much makes life easier

if you are just changing the slave just pull the tranny straight back as far as you can without lowering the lift at all and change the slave like that if you can, if you move the tranny as little as possible it takes that much less to get it back in line

 

I dont recommend the tranny adapters for a regular floor jack. 1. a tranny lift has alot of low clearance for a reason, which the adapter can set as much as 6 inches higher than your floor jack not allowing clearance to get the trans out from under the vehicle. 2. the tranny lift is so much more stable than the floor jack. 3. if you get the right tranny lift, it will have all four wheels that swivel where the floor jack may have 2 fixed wheels and 1 to 2 swiveled wheels. Four swivelling wheels makes it easier to get the tranny in the right position. 4. the tilt adjustment can help in getting the transfer case mounted up to the trans a little easier.

A suggested change to any trans lift is to make a chain 'basket' in order for it to mold easier to the contours of any transmission. Manuals have alot odd surfaces where an auto has a some straight surfaces you can use easily. Some of the harbor freight, cummins tools, etc. sell some okay lifts that are relatively inexpensive especially if you use them only a few times in your lifetime.

 

I just put a slave/line/clutch in my 95,its not a bad job,I took out my shifter,starter,and 4x4 shifter,it was seized anyhow.driveshafts and then you need to unhook your slave line,if you buy a new one it should come with a plastic tool to uncouple the line from the slave.I wouldn't take the transfer case of the tranny,I would just get a loan of a tranny jack,your best bet is to not do what I did.first thing once you drop your shafts and shifters is to get the tranny crossmember out of the way.don't get everything unbolted and then try and get that out its a pita to hold the tranny and case steady while you get it out.
get a small jack and hold the back of the transfer case up while you get the crossmember out,then put your tranny jack back there,the transfer case is heavier then the trans and if you put the jack too far forward it will be very unstable.trust me I I know.
then take your bellhousing bolts out and take out your trans.
unbolt your slave and take it out,I would clean the input shaft on the tranny and use some light grease on it before you put on the new slave.
then just put everything back the way it came out.
I would also check the condition of your clutch while you are at it.good a time as any to find out its worn out,or has broken springs.
and when it comes to bleeding the thing,which is always fun I've heard several different opinions on how to do it.
I filled up the master cylender and opened the bleeder,leave it open until you have fluid with no air.
close the bleeder and have someone pump the pedle very fast and then hold it while you crack the bleeder.
repeat as needed.
for mine it was 5 or 6 times and it is working great now,but I'm sure there is a better way,but all of the trucks I usually work on are either linkage,or air.
if you have a friend,or a friend of a friend that works at a heavt truck shop,borrow their tranny jack is possible,the pad on these jacks are huge,and are very stable,its still a good idea to toss a small chain around your trans case and bolt it to the pad on the jack,nothing will make a clutch job go any worn then the tranny laying on your arm,leg or worse.
hope some of this is helpfull to you.and good luck.

 

oh and before I forget,if you do decide to unbolt your clutch to check it while your there,make sure you unbolt the pressure plate bolts evenly,
crack all the bolts loose,and then in a cris cross patten loosen them of,this will keep you from damaging your clutch if it is still good.

 

if you take it that far apart just replace the clutch.

 

yeah i wouldnt pull a clutch until you need to replace it they can be a PITA...

i dont see how a t-case weighs more than the tranny does i drained fluids from both and pulled the t-case without using a jack at all, i just set it on my chest and rolled out on my creeper, this also gave me reason to change my t-case AND tranny fluids which is never a bad idea when you have the tranny out any way

the second time i did the slave in my 95 (3 months after the first time) i pulled the t-case first, then while i had the tranny out on the jack i did the slave then i bolted the t-case back up and it kinda helped in lining the tranny back up, more surface to grab onto, but for removing the tranny its easier without the t-case (less weight and less uneven on the jack) if you pull the t-case first, leave the tranny bolted in completely and remove the t-case put a jack under the tranny and secure it then unbolt the x-member then the bell housing bolts (do the starter, lines, shifter, drive shafts ect. first of course)

I work in a heavy truck shop and the big a$$ tranny jacks we have are nice for this job

 

the case is heavier then the trans,I just don't like unbolting them,usually end up with mess,but its an option.one of those things thats totally up to the guy doing the job,I find it just wastes time.I have working in a heavy truck shop for over 14 years now 9.ford.5 and those jacks are the best,I was always going to get one of the clutch jacks too,would make getting those heavy clutches up alot easier,but I found that if you put everything on the input shaft and put it up loose and bolt the clutch on after the bell bolts are in it saves alot of time.

 

i'm sure i'll have a ton of questions as i get into this but here are a couple simple ones
1) to unhook the slave hydralic line, it sounds like there's a special plastic tool that i'll get with the new slave, but do i do this once i unbolt the transmission and just slide it back a few inches
2) any trick to removing the shifters?

 

if you attempt this i hope you have a manual with you to answer questions like this.

it will help you more then anything else you buy.

 

you can unhook that line at any process in your dissasembly,you don't need that special tool,I think if you have a 5/8's wrench or around that size,not sure. you could do it with that,just slide the open end over the coupler and push the white plastic piece towards the slave cylender.when I took my shifter out I just removed the 4 screws that hold the boot to the floor.once you have those out and you pull the boot up you will see three screws that hold the retainer cap for the shifter,take those out and your shifter will come off,remember to take a clean rag and cover the hole up to keep anything from falling down there,you actually should clean this area a bit before taking the shifter out.and like quicklook2 said a manual is good to have around,they are $20 well spent.but they don't always show the best way to do things.

 

Fred...thanks, sounds easy enough. Yep...i plan to pick up a manual in the next day or so. Kind of jumping the gun w/the questions but i'm anxious ...

 

or if you dont want to worry about keeping your shift tower debris free, when you pull the shifter boots you will see right above the previously mentioned cap with the 3 screws, there is a bolt and nut at the base of the shifter, grab a wrench and remove the nut from the right side of the shifter ,then on the left of the shifter (i cant remember what its called) but when you turn it clockwise it pops loose then just pull it out, there are no threads on the left side, then just pull the shifter up and out

EDIT: i guess i can see the tranny weighing less than the t-case its pretty much a hollow shell with a few gears in it, a manual tranny is anyway, ***** who needs a jack then! LOL jks use a jack i can only imagine how hard they would be to line up when its sittin on your gut, and if you dropped it once you lifted it up, you would be royally screwed, without even a kiss

 

9.ford.5, make you a set of these for each thread size you work with...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepins.jpg
...then it'll be "the quickest and most straight forward part". ;)

I use them while pulling and shoving the transmission back in both. :)

With he rear of the transmission resting on its rubber mount and the
un-bolted cross member, the sucker slides in and out of there like it's
on rails. :)

Mine are 7/16" coarse thread and work for both my 360FE and the
351w I just pulled a ZF off of. The ZF was a measly ~145 pounds
and the T18 pictured is slightly heavier as shown at ~150 pounds.

I'll prob'ly never use a transmission jack, don't see a need for it. :)
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist1.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist2.jpg
YMMV? :)

I never blocked up the 351w, it balanced perfect both with and
without the flywheel etc on it. My 360FE is rear heavy and has to
be supported.

Alvin in AZ

 

alvine is right on the dowls they make things alot easier when you can't move your tranny and see at the same time.I did a slave in a 2wd a few years back and just unbolted the crossmember bolts and such and it slide right back,but the transfer case(if left on) will hit the cab and you can only get it back about 4-5 inches,not enough room to work.