Hello everyone. I have been compiling some information on how to replace your fuse block and have tried to make a few helpful diagrams that I will continue to update and upload as some of this information may/probably is wrong and could change.

I decided to replace my original fuse block with a more up-to-date fuse block.

I purchased the Painless 30001 fuse block for about $100 bucks.

Before I started I had no dash lights, gauges, tail lights, stop lights, turn signals, dome light, or anything else you can think of. It was a wiring mess under that dash. I will eventually replace all the wiring.

My original fuse block had so much aluminum foil, it looked like left over meatloaf stuck to my fire wall.

Here are the pictures explaining what I think each wire does and how I hooked them up to the new fuse block.

There are several wires that seem to power the block. I did not use all of these, good or bad, I dont know.

Picture #1 - This is a diagram of what color wires run to which fuse.

Picture #2 - This is a diagram that depicts how the larger wires seem to supply power to the block.

Picture #3 - Rough diagram of how I hooked up everything.

What works now? Everything that I have hooked up! However, I must admit, that I keep blowing dome light fuses after the light has been on for a while. Need some advice on this one.







Please look over everything and if there are errors let me know. If you hooked yours up differently let me know.

If something needs changed I will update the pics and upload the new ones.

 

The pictures are less than 200 pixels wide; no one can see anything.

 

Not sure how to make the pics any bigger?

 

pics are small, but I wouldn't say they are illegible.

 

That's strange; now they're much bigger.

 

Do I need to hook up the Throttle solenoid/Emission control circuitry wire?

I read it was only used to raise the idle for trucks with AC.

I dont have AC so do I need to hook up the wire to the new fuse block?

 

Here they are larger:

 

 

Dr2006 - the throttle solenoid wire is for the idle stop solenoid. It's not for AC; it's used on certain engines to hold the curb idle. When the power to the motor is cut, the solenoid retracts, allowing the throttle plates to close completely. This prevents dieseling, hence the solenoid often being referred to as an anti-dieseling solenoid. If your carburetor doesn't have this solenoid, you can leave the circuit out.

 

Thanks fmc400. Great explanation.

 

I have been having some issues with fuses blowing. I have traced it back to the blue/red wires for the dash lights.

There are three of these wires on the old fuse block.

Do all three supply the dash lights?

It seems that two of the wires have current in them before the fuse block, is this correct?

I am suspecting that there may be a wire loose in the dash or maybe a bad ground. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

You are correct about the idle stop solenoid wire coming off the fuse panel.

However... be aware that...

There are throttle solenoids/Emission solenoids that are Air Conditioning specific. These solenoids are identicle in looks to the solenoid mentioned above, except it's supply wire is connected between the A/C Evaporator Thermostat and the A/C clutch solenoid. It's purpose is to increase the throttle opening when the a/c clutch is activated, so there isn't a perceived idle drop from the increased load on the engine.

Don't confuse the two.

 

The Light Blue/Red stripe wire gets it's power directly from the headlamp switch. On the original circut, it leaves the headlamp switch goes to the fuse panel through a 4 or 5amp fuse depending on year, and from the fuse panel goes to the individual illumination lamps. Instrument cluster, radio dial illumination, Headlamp, wiper washer marker illumination lamp.

The lt. Blue/Red stripe wire is not supplied power at the fuse panel. It just goes through it.

So if your light switch is on, then the lt. Blue/Red wires should be energized. If its not on, then all the lt. blue/Red wires should be dead.

 

I will check the wires tomorrow to make sure they are not hot when the light switch is off. If in fact they are, then there must be a crossed wire somewhere.

Basically, my new fuse block is setup to power the dash lights. So I would not need the light blue/red wire coming from the light switch to be connected to the fuse block, only the dash lights.

Does this sound correct?

However, this will probably not allow me to dim the dash lights, which is not a problem at all, given the fact that they are not very bright to begin with.

 

Ok... I checked all three wires and here are my results.

#1 light blue/red - Hot with light switch turned all the way to the left, nothing when turned all the way to the right.

#2 light blue/red - Hot with light switch turned all the way to the left, nothing when turned all the way to the right.

#3 light blue/red - Hot no matter what position the light switch is in.

When #1 or #2 are hooked to the new fuse block with the ignition on - no dash lights (no matter what way you turn the light switch).

When #3 is hooked to the fuse block and ignition is on - + Dash lights (no matter what way you turn the light switch).

So does this mean that wire #1 and #2 must be for the dimmer?

Is #3 the wire that should be hooked to the fuse block and why does it have constant current?