Jim thanks for all your advice!!! I will try jacking the back up, and see what happens...But it looks like I'll be getting out the Sawzall . The attached links sure had some controversy. Hotrodders typically don't scare too easily. Regarless this route would be WAY easier than pulling the motor.! When I told my oldest son the plan, he told me I should part the truck out, now he got me fired up, and I love a challenge. Thank you again, C

 

A cracked pick-up tube usually doesn't cause a "No start"...just a bad running engine due to a aerated oil going to the injectors.
Gearotor style oil pumps usually don't go bad either unless there was major engine damage.
My guess is with the de-aeration valve....pulling the front cover is no piece of cake....still easier than jerking an engine or cutting the frame

10-4 on the hot-rodders, I are one of them lol, also one of the reasons I jumped all over cutting the x-member for an oil pan replacement. I build & modify hotrod frames, back half cars ect...an occasionally a hi-perf engine or two along with some narrowed differentials. I can weld anything but a broken heart

 

I have a friend who was a Navy welder-he could weld on subs. He said there were two things he couldn't weld, the crack of your a--, and a broken heart!
I have a couple errands to run before I start on the truck, I think I better pull the front cover off first, maybe I'll get lucky!
thank you, c

 

I'll attempt welding the azz-crack.....as long as all the crap has been ground off first so the weld will stick lol.

 

I'm having a tough time with the belt tensioner, it just won't budge!Any ideas? It's my day off, and I'n trying to keep my cool.....

 

The belt tensioners on these trucks are tough!

Chris, should you go the route of cutting the crossmember, and are hesitant about welding it back up, I can do that for you.

 

Bless your heart John. I am going to pull the front cover first, and see if the de-aeration valve is loose, or missing, it seems this is a somewhat common problem that gives no oil pressure -no starts. thanks for the kind offer. I have to get the darn thing running before Ican start modding!!!!!!

 

Got the tensioner to budge, calling it quits for today. Now to fire up the grill, and put some grain fed Angus on for supper! See you all tomorrow!
C

 

Jim,
If there is no movement when the cross member is cut, rather than weld it back together could the rivets on one side be drilled out and that way only one cut would be required.

Then, rather than weld that one cut, reinforce the cut from both sides and bolt it back together with four (4) grade 8 bolts plus how many rivets that were cut.

My other thought is rather than weld it at all, make your two (2) cuts then piece it back together using the plates and grade 8 bolts (8)

Just a thought

Rog

 

Rog, That would be a faster way of doing it....only one cut instead of 2 + it should be stronger too. Not sure the x member will come out though, might not be enough room to wiggle it out + the engine is attached to what's left after the cut(s). You can see the motor mounts in this picture. CLICKY

After I saw how rigid the cut x-member was I planned on bolting the next one together as an experiment...probably mine...it's starting to leak again. lol If it flexes too much I can just weld it up.

 

I have the belt off, radiator drained, and hoses disconnected.
Next will be removing radiator, and fan shroud.

does the HPOP come off w/front cover?


thank you all
C