Going Solid
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Joined: Apr 2006
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Going Solid
Hi Guys (and Gals)
I just picked up a straight axle Dana 44 front from the bone yard. I got the axle, track bar with mount, Radius arms with mounts and coil cups. Also all of the steering linkage. (cut off the pitman arm with a torch)
This one's out of a 78' F-150. So it's got disc brakes and five lug. It looks a bit rusty, but a half an hour with a wire brush and it doesnt look to bad. Everything turns like it should. I think the drag link is sloppy, but other than that its all tight. (Tie rod and ball joints)
Couple of questions. I plan to tear it down and replace the gears, bearings and u-joints. Do you think I should replace the ball joints even if their tight?
This is not for my current Bronco. I'm going to buy another for a project. Awile back I asked if this swap was a bolt in project. The answer was no. But looking at this, it would seem like it would be. at least on a Bronco with the AOD trans. (my current Bronco has the E40D with longer radius arms.) Am I missing something? Why would it not just bolt in?
In fact if this goes well, I might get another to put in my current Bronco. do they make longer radius arms for a straight axle?
I just picked up a straight axle Dana 44 front from the bone yard. I got the axle, track bar with mount, Radius arms with mounts and coil cups. Also all of the steering linkage. (cut off the pitman arm with a torch)
This one's out of a 78' F-150. So it's got disc brakes and five lug. It looks a bit rusty, but a half an hour with a wire brush and it doesnt look to bad. Everything turns like it should. I think the drag link is sloppy, but other than that its all tight. (Tie rod and ball joints)
Couple of questions. I plan to tear it down and replace the gears, bearings and u-joints. Do you think I should replace the ball joints even if their tight?
This is not for my current Bronco. I'm going to buy another for a project. Awile back I asked if this swap was a bolt in project. The answer was no. But looking at this, it would seem like it would be. at least on a Bronco with the AOD trans. (my current Bronco has the E40D with longer radius arms.) Am I missing something? Why would it not just bolt in?
In fact if this goes well, I might get another to put in my current Bronco. do they make longer radius arms for a straight axle?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
its not bolt in because the older springs dont match up right to the coil buckets that are currently on an 80+ bronco. also there is no place to connect up the track bar with out welding in a bracket. next is the crossmember below the motor. this will need to be trimmed a bunch to allow room for the axle to clear. you can also figure on having a minimum of 6-7"s of lift when going to an SAS.
tranny type has nothing to do with this conversion. I would contact Cage Offroad, they have every thing you need to make this a bolt in ordeal. get some 78/79 coil buckets, the shock mounts from an f250/f350. plan on moving the coil buckets about 1" forward for better clearances also.
tranny type has nothing to do with this conversion. I would contact Cage Offroad, they have every thing you need to make this a bolt in ordeal. get some 78/79 coil buckets, the shock mounts from an f250/f350. plan on moving the coil buckets about 1" forward for better clearances also.
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The track bar has a mount on it with two bolt holes. Are you saying this mount wont line up with any part of my frame? What if I used the springs from the newer truck? Could I just get a crossmember from a F-150 or would that be more work? It would seem like there would be lots of room after removeing the TTB junk.
The only reason I mentioned the tranny is the front driveshaft must pivot with the radius arms. The AOD is much shorter, which moves the tarnsfer case forward to line up with the short radius arms I got with the axle.
My current truck is raised 6", so I guess I'm OK there, But I wasnt sure if I wanted this project truck raised. I'm going to remove the body, so tire clearence is not an issue.
The only reason I mentioned the tranny is the front driveshaft must pivot with the radius arms. The AOD is much shorter, which moves the tarnsfer case forward to line up with the short radius arms I got with the axle.
My current truck is raised 6", so I guess I'm OK there, But I wasnt sure if I wanted this project truck raised. I'm going to remove the body, so tire clearence is not an issue.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 497
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From: Olympia USA
The cross member from the donor rig, or any that had the solid axle won't work. Frame is different. Also, your motor mount bases are welded to the cross member, so it'd be a chore to change it out. All who have gone SA lift the truck enough and/or cut some of the existing TTB cross member down.
The track bar mount won't align on the TTB cross member, you'll need to fab a new bracket once you have got the axle where you want it.
Then there's the brake lines. You'll need to change from the TTB to a single rubber line going down to the axle.
As mentioned already, the spring bucket does not line up. Neither does the shock mount. KB gave you the skinny on that.
The track bar mount won't align on the TTB cross member, you'll need to fab a new bracket once you have got the axle where you want it.
Then there's the brake lines. You'll need to change from the TTB to a single rubber line going down to the axle.
As mentioned already, the spring bucket does not line up. Neither does the shock mount. KB gave you the skinny on that.
