i dont think its about NEEDING 700 horses prozon...its about HAVING 700 horses . we LIKE HAVING a truck with massive amounts of hp, its not stupid, just not what you would do apparently, like 75f350 said, its about the fun factor , and im betting if chickenfry does have a 700hp motor to put in a mud truck, it will be more fun than a 400hp motor

 

whys it so hard to believe? you can make them, my father builds drag truck engines. the one he runs in his truck has almost 900 all motor. the pistons are 15:1 with a custom designed cam.

 

I'm with 75F350 on that point, it ain't always about needing, sometimes its about wanting. And I can tell ya first hand, a truck with 39.5s with 450HP can sure get through some mud, but another truck with 800HP and 39.5s can do it ALOT faster LOL.

A full drum of VP in a weekend?? Thats nuts dude!! But thats what fun costs sometimes LOL. Its probably a good thing I only use mine 200 feet at a time, I've used 5 gallons in 5 runs, total time of 25 seconds, not bad milage I figure!! LOL

 

haha ya there bad on gas, but i never said i was GOING to put it in i just said it was there and i was thinking about it, im just gunna go with the 400 for now and upgrade a 450 with some mild motor work later on. and there are a few f350s around in the 1000-1500 price range but so far theyve all been 2x4s. my buddy just bought an f350 with d60s for 500 so they are out there.

 

anyways enough about motors. what is the most suspension lift i can get before my drive shafts will be on too much of an anlge an bind? i want to put 8 for suspension. i can cut and lengthen the axles to make them long enough i just need to know if thats too much or if it will bind up and break u joints like crazy

 

6-8 is as much as I'd go for 39s. I have a 6" in my 79 F250 and I had to notch the crossmember so the front shaft wouldnt hit it, and get rid of the cv shaft, and built a 1410 shaft, slip yoke at the tcase, been workin great...even with me behind the wheel!!

 

Dont make the shafts a limiting factor. I mean a stock shaft is not gonna cut the mustard regardless of what kind of power you are making. Believe it or not, lower horsepower trucks are probably harder on parts than higher horsepower ones. Higher HP trucks can spin tires through many things, and maintain tire speed. Its when the tires stop or hit something when parts fly. SUper high HP rigs seem to glide over mud and many of the real big boyz can run Dana 44's (front) for season after season.
In other cases, vehicles with smaller engines struggle with one ton gear and break parts.
Traction kills, and when the truck struggles to turn the tires with a bunch of speed, parts are sacrificed.
Now, that being said, lift your truck to the level it takes to clear your tires, and since you are gonna be upgrading driveshafts with larger u-joints anyway, the cost of the shaft will remain unchanged. I mean you are not gonna run a stock driveshaft, unless it is a late SD shaft and already has a 1410 joint, but some way, some how, you will be running a modified shaft. Since you are gonna modify a shaft, then the length should not be a factor, and prevent you from running what you want. Dont limit a build to something that is considered a consumable. Shafts are consumable, and they go away, so dont get cheap here. Buy or build the best shaft that you can.
Any truck is only as strong as its weakest link, so dont let a stocker 1310 joint be that link, or you will never put any power to the ground.
Look at some trucks that are similar to what you want to build, and determine if this type of reliability is what you want.
We were talking about engines, and many of us spend big bucks on some go fast parts. Sure anyone can get decent power out of just about any engine, but how many times can they run it at 7000+ rpm and do that with repeatability? The guy that spends big bucks on reliable, and unfortunately expensive parts. The same is true for any part under your truck.
As an example, a 1410 yoke for a 205 is gonna run you about 100 bucks. The joint and parts for the drivehshaft still have to be considered. Expect to open the wallet, and keep it open. This is not a cheap endeavor, and cheap gets you a quick trip to the trailer or the recieving end of a tow rope.
Build for reliability and dependability, and dont put limitations on your build. Reliablitity comes from large and often overkill components.
How much does it cost to be safe, and reliable? Believe it or not, it costs less, than trying to cut corners and breaking something. After you break it, you still have to fix it, and by that time you might finally consider upgrading to the components that should have been used in the first place.
Build it right the first time. YOu get what you pay for here.........

 

Does Ed have orgasms from throttling his truck? :P

 

I can explain that, this is not quite as easy to explain. Its a rush, a real adrenaline rush.

 

im not gonna lie here but i kinda hate Ed...good guy but he has too many nice trucks! LOL...just buggin ya man i dont hate you...its more like envy in disguise

 

I think thats called jealousy.

 

Im ok with that bud.

 

Well i'll buy you an adult beverage.


....in exchange for one of your trucks.

 

Might take more than "one" adult beverages.

 

Ed takes FAR more than one adult beverage. And I thought I could drink... big mistake hanging with him and his pops. They showed me.