Wiring(beats head on table)
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Wiring(beats head on table)
Hey guys in advance let me say thank you for any and all help.
OK here we go. So it started out as a charging problem. I searched and actual find this post on here.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/721789-need-help-alternator-problems.html
This helped me tons got my truck up and charging I have a muti-meter and was getting 13.6 on the battery and 13.6 on the post of the alt, when testing. Everything was going great then I went to turn off the key (lol) it didn’t die. Ok so ill start looking it over remove the POS battery didn’t die, and then the NEG side didn’t die, ALT GOOD WOOT! I pulled the F side on the ALT truck died. So now I’m stuck big time it was turning over and running now after I try to fix the above problem I F%##%ed it up I think. I wired the truck according to Franklin2 posted (I) not used on the voltage regulator(VR) Now the F port off the (VR) run to the F post on the alternator. The S post off the alternator run to a black/white wire (taped) that goes to an elec choke (not used). The Post (hot) off the alternator splits into a solid black/red cable that runs to the battery side of the solenoid. At the split it goes to runs to a black/yellow (thick wire) black/yellow wire and a red wire then lead back into the firewall. On the (VR)A connecter it’s wired to the battery side of the starter solenoid and to a red wire off a three prong connecter then run back to the alternator off the big thick red and black cable that connects to the hot post of the alternator. S connecter is all crazy green and yellow wire that runs to a two prong connecter that goes like this yel/green wire to grn/red into the firewall. And the green yellow leads to a black/yellow wire that lead to a fuse that on the outside wall of my truck that lead to a black and yellow cable that runs into the firewall. The other side of the prong yellow/green goes to a ground near the (VR)on one side and the other side come off the fuse noted above.<O
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So now I have done this before I use a aftermarket key that I installed (I) on the key goes to the( I) on the starter solenoid (S) on the key goes to the( S) on the starter solenoid. There also a thick yellow cable prob old battery cable for old original key. Anyway I used this yellow cable off the battery side solenoid that runs into the firewall and out the dash where a cd player would go. I had this taped wire to four wires which allowed my truck to start before. Black/green (gauges and wipers) purple/white (?) Red/green (seat bucket light) orange /green (?) before my truck would start fine wired like this. I try to wire the red/green to( I) side of my aftermarket key hoping I could kill the truck when I turned the key off (no luck) after that I haven’t been able to start the truck at all it tries to turn over but just would fire at all now. Battery got a good charge so I know its something I’m missing. I can get some pictures if need be whatever I can to do to help u guys help me again thanks for going over this and an time u spend thinkin about this problem.<O></O>
Useful info 1977 f-150 ranger 351m Thx again Chris
OK here we go. So it started out as a charging problem. I searched and actual find this post on here.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/721789-need-help-alternator-problems.html
This helped me tons got my truck up and charging I have a muti-meter and was getting 13.6 on the battery and 13.6 on the post of the alt, when testing. Everything was going great then I went to turn off the key (lol) it didn’t die. Ok so ill start looking it over remove the POS battery didn’t die, and then the NEG side didn’t die, ALT GOOD WOOT! I pulled the F side on the ALT truck died. So now I’m stuck big time it was turning over and running now after I try to fix the above problem I F%##%ed it up I think. I wired the truck according to Franklin2 posted (I) not used on the voltage regulator(VR) Now the F port off the (VR) run to the F post on the alternator. The S post off the alternator run to a black/white wire (taped) that goes to an elec choke (not used). The Post (hot) off the alternator splits into a solid black/red cable that runs to the battery side of the solenoid. At the split it goes to runs to a black/yellow (thick wire) black/yellow wire and a red wire then lead back into the firewall. On the (VR)A connecter it’s wired to the battery side of the starter solenoid and to a red wire off a three prong connecter then run back to the alternator off the big thick red and black cable that connects to the hot post of the alternator. S connecter is all crazy green and yellow wire that runs to a two prong connecter that goes like this yel/green wire to grn/red into the firewall. And the green yellow leads to a black/yellow wire that lead to a fuse that on the outside wall of my truck that lead to a black and yellow cable that runs into the firewall. The other side of the prong yellow/green goes to a ground near the (VR)on one side and the other side come off the fuse noted above.<O
></O>So now I have done this before I use a aftermarket key that I installed (I) on the key goes to the( I) on the starter solenoid (S) on the key goes to the( S) on the starter solenoid. There also a thick yellow cable prob old battery cable for old original key. Anyway I used this yellow cable off the battery side solenoid that runs into the firewall and out the dash where a cd player would go. I had this taped wire to four wires which allowed my truck to start before. Black/green (gauges and wipers) purple/white (?) Red/green (seat bucket light) orange /green (?) before my truck would start fine wired like this. I try to wire the red/green to( I) side of my aftermarket key hoping I could kill the truck when I turned the key off (no luck) after that I haven’t been able to start the truck at all it tries to turn over but just would fire at all now. Battery got a good charge so I know its something I’m missing. I can get some pictures if need be whatever I can to do to help u guys help me again thanks for going over this and an time u spend thinkin about this problem.<O
></O>Useful info 1977 f-150 ranger 351m Thx again Chris
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From: Virginia
So the problem is you can't get the engine to stop? And this happened only after you got the charging system re-wired? If so, take the "s" wire loose off the regulator, and then see if the engine will stop.
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Thx you
Thank u for the suggestion. The problem now once i try to wire the green/red (seat belt) wire to the (i) of the aftermarket key i cant get it to start again at all just turns and turns but wont fire now. Ill try again later today if i can get it running ill remove the (s) from the VR unit. the wiring has been hacked all to peices but I need to get it running with the wire in it to get bye ill i can rewire it. should i take pictures to try to maybe show the problem im having and what i did to try and reslove it.
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From: Virginia
Thank u for the suggestion. The problem now once i try to wire the green/red (seat belt) wire to the (i) of the aftermarket key i cant get it to start again at all just turns and turns but wont fire now. Ill try again later today if i can get it running ill remove the (s) from the VR unit. the wiring has been hacked all to peices but I need to get it running with the wire in it to get bye ill i can rewire it. should i take pictures to try to maybe show the problem im having and what i did to try and reslove it.
That's the problem you run into when you try and hook all the key-on stuff to one spot. Things will feed back and other things will short out, and that kills the engine or makes it not want to stop.
What I would do is run one dedicated wire from the key "I" to the coil. I would then get a Bosch type relay and hook the coil to the "I" and then hook the contacts of the relay to a fuse or circuit breaker, and then run all your accessories off that. That way if there is a problem, the relay circuit with the fuse or circuit breaker will trip, but your engine will still be running with it's own dedicated line that is separate from the other stuff.
That's how the factory does it, only not so much with relays, more with fuses. Think of the battery as the large trunk of a tree. As they wire different circuits(the branches of the tree) each branch has it's own smaller fuse. That way if there is a problem in that part of the circuit(that branch), it won't take the whole vehicle down, it just blows the fuse in that smaller circuit.
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Deadline!!
hey guys thanks for all your help. I will be looking into getting that relay going. I think Im on the right track. I gotten get this thing going by aug/7 or the worthless city going to tow my truck. Anyway, so im going to do what you guys suggested i have a quick question, with all the wires hook up as they where, i get like 8-9 volts on the battery side of the coil, and the truck will just turn and turn and turn. So i wired a cable right off the battery to the batt side of the coil ( all other wires the same coilnow has 12 volts) and now it tries to crank but it like its back firing then it dies, what i'm i doing worng now. again thank for all the help i need it, i had this truck since i was 16(first car) and ill be damned if i let the city take it, ill burn it to the ground first, LOL.
Chris
Chris
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From: Virginia
So i wired a cable right off the battery to the batt side of the coil ( all other wires the same coilnow has 12 volts) and now it tries to crank but it like its back firing then it dies,
