My son and I just installed an ez wiring kit on my 50 f1. I has a speedway turn signal indictor. everything is ok but we can't get the brake lights to work. any ideas?

 

i'm sure people here can help you trouble shoot, but you can also call ez-wire for some help. good luck

 

Does yours wire into the sensor on the back of the master cyl.? That was the problem on my '55.
Good Luck

 

Yes we have tied it to a pressure swithch on the master cylinder

 

Power goes from the breakers attached to your gauge panel to your pressure switch then routes through that to your light(s)

 

right..

so,if you take the two wires at the switch (master, brakes pedal or inline however you did it), and connect them together, do the brake lights light?

that will prove the wiring and the circuit and the fuse are all good.. then you can solve the switch problem..

Sam

 

Julieeeeeeeeeeee, where are you?

 

Your brake lights have to go through the turn signal switch. This is because the stoplight on each side has to be disconnected from the brake circuit for the signal to flash it. So the pressure switch on the master has to wire to the turn signal switch, then the output of the turn signal switch goes to each stoplight wire, R & L.

Regards,

Alan

 

I didnt know 1950 had factory signal lights, guess the flasher off mine must have got hawked.

 

They didn't. Nor did he say they were stock signals, but rather had an aftermarket type switch on it. Also, he mentioned that the truck has been rewired using an EZ kit. So the circuit breakers on the panel are not being used for distribution as in a stock set up.

Alan is right - it's not enough to have the brake light switch powered, that power then runs up to the signal switch and is used as either brake lights or turn signals.

First, perform a continuety check on the brake light switch with it disconnected. They tend to stick and rust. Get a multimeter, set it to 0 Ohms, touch both of the pins on the brake light switch with the meter and have someone step on the brakes. If the needle does not deflect, the switch is stuck or bad - replace it. If the needle deflects, then check that the wire boots that slide onto the pins fit on tight.

Take your meter and set it to read 50 VDC. Check both wires coming to the switch for voltage - by touching one lead on the meter to the wire the other to ground. When doing this only one of the two wires should make the meter needle deflect - that's the power wire. Hook that one to the brake switch. If neither works check your fuse or fuse box connection (or the integrity of that wire) .

Test the switch again by having someone step on the brakes while you are touching the bare pin on the switch with one lead and the other to ground. When they step on the brake pedal, the needle should deflect (you are still set at 50VDC on the meter this time). If it does deflect, connect the second wire to the switch - the problem is in the signal switch. If it doesn't deflect, the switch is bad or your connection at the switch is bad.

I'm assuming with your statement about everything working, the signals are working - right?

Take a look at the generic wiring diagram I have in my electrical gallery to give you an idea about the flow and how stuff is powered.

 

Julie, I think it is time you wrote a how to on buying/using a multimeter to trouble shoot electrical circuits.

 

There is also a chance that the turn signal unit is the type that uses separate lights for turn signals; that is the basic SignalStat model's modus operandi. Only the "deluxe" models integrate the brake lights. Back in the day, as many of us have found, it was very common to screw "school bus" turn signals to top of the fenders and leave the stock lights alone.

 

Of course, that assumes people would read it first; just like the Search function, that doesn't seem to happen.

One of the best things for troubleshooting power circuits I've found is to make up a 10' - 12' #14 red wire, with alligator clip on one end, and a female spade connector on the other. Also a short, 4"-long red wire with large alligator clip on one end, and a female spade on the other. I connect the spade connectors to a 10A circuit breaker I got off a junker car, that is the "ATC" style (plugs into a fusebox just like a fuse). The big alligator clips onto the battery or the starter solenoid.

What that makes is a 12v power source with protection, that can reach almost everything on a car/truck. I've used it constantly since I made it, for everything like testing accessories, fuel pumps, lights, you name it.

It can also be used as a continuity tester by replacing the circuit breaker with the seat belt buzzer from a car. They have the same spade terminals.

Making up a bunch of jumpers with alligator clips soldered on takes an hour or two but saves a ton of time. I find the power cable/jumpers more useful than the VOM or DVM because it seems I can never make the connection with a probe AND see the DVM screen at the same time. The buzzer is nice because you don't need to see it at all.

 

[quote=ALBUQ F-1;7686147]Of course, that assumes people would read it first; just like the Search function, that doesn't seem to happen.

THE SEARCH FUNCTION THAT NEVER SEEMS TO WORK!!

 

Tee hee - you mean after 2500 posts, about half of which are on electrical salad tossing, I havent already? Sure feels like it.

[quote=4thgenford;7687184]The search function we used to have was really good. When they did "the [infamous] upgrade" a few things went to He(( in a handbasket -the search was one of them. It's such a shame because there is more collective knowledge on this site about these trucks than any where else in the world. But no one can find it any more. I've gripped, moaned and groaned - flat out birched -to no avail. I have gone back through and saved all the good posts I participated in, to favorites, so I can find some stuff.

I undestand that electrical stuff is intimidating for some. But it's really very simple - exactly like plumbing. I like Ross' "baby extension cord" method!