Check Spider Bracket for contamination before replacing VCT solenoid, due to varible ribbing resistance, solenoid valve sticks open causing rough idle.

 

What is the "Spider Bracket "?
I have not heard of this before.
Where is located?

From everything I found on the web, all that is stated is "Check the Spider Bracket for contamination"; however, I cannot
find anything How to check this or what it is.

Words of advice please.

 

Isn't that a cool name for the VCT assembly. To clean em U unbolt them and take each off individually. They can clog inside the manifold with material messing up the valve. It goes back to the VVT a alfa romeo spider. Unforgetable no. They cling there to the head. The spiders web is inside (screen). Something happens in the front of the engine, I guess you can call it gluggggg. It seems to be a formation of various substances, not a very nice thing to visit with.

 

Ok ... I think I understand now ... just another name. Just take them out and clean them. Got It.
I was going to pick-up a new one tomorrow for $133.00 just in case I do need to replace it.
Is it advised to replace the seal on top of these VCT when cleaning or replacing?

Thanks!

 

I finally got the driver's side VCT out. This motor is gunky. Once I got it out the plastic retainer for the top screen was broken in half and actually missing one of the screens. Needless to say I put a new one in. Now I am going to replace the passenger's side as well ... I am sure that one is not much better.

 

I sure hope it has good oil pressure when it is hot.

 

I have a 2004 F150 and I canb do the work myself only thing is I'm not sure where to start. I got Error codes of P2195 and 2197 meaning that the O2 sensors are goofy and Po171 and 174 Fuel to lean on both banks, so I am thinking that if I change out the O2 Sensors my problems will be solved....any thoughts

 

How many miles do you have on your motor?

 

My 2004 has 114,000 miles on it

 

What is your FRP PRESSURE AT IDLE? MINE WAS DOING THE SAME THING AND AFTER CHECKING EVER YTHING POSSIBLE I NOTICE THE BANK2 FUEL TRIM WAS TRYNG TO RUN rich CONSISTENTLY that will give the code for suck Rich, and lead onto bank 1,2 lean code later on. DECIDED TO PULL THE FUEL FILTER AND I WAS SUPRISED THAT IT WAS PLUGGED. IT WOULD BARELY LET FUEL THROUGH AND MY READING WAS ONLY 46psi at idle. When I replace the filter the pressure shot up to 50 psi. The SCANNER states accepable range is 50-70? hMMM SEEMS TO CONFLICT WITH ALLDATA IT SAY35-46 I THINK. but make sure the vacum is good just hook up VAC GUAGE AND TAKE YOUR READING TO VERIFY NO LEAKS ARE CAUSING YOU TO GO LEAN. MY TRUCK ran SMOOTH FOR ABOUT 5 MILES AND PRESSURE WAS ABOVE55 PSI. THEN IT STARTED RUNNING ROUGH. WHEN I LOOKED AT FRP PID. IT WENT DOWN TO 38 PSI. I THOUGHT THE FILTER WAS CLOGGED AGAIN. I WANT TO BELIEVE THAT THE FUEL PUMP IS GETTING WEAK THERE FOR IT CANNOT KEEP UP WITH THE DEMAND for more fuel. I want to say during acceleration the fuel system is experiencing cavitation in the line from filter all the way up. Which can fool the ecm into thinking combustion is taking place or partial combustion. That would give the feeling of rough idle, stumbling or jerky Transitions when give more pedal to accelerate. So far that's my assumption going to check fuel pump this weekend. But I believe I'm on the right track to busting this mystery.

 

FJUNK,

you may want to check the Fuel Pump Driver Module wich is mount's above the spare tire on a cross member and is known to crack & malfunction
Just my 2cents
John

 

Yes, thanks for the info. I was just reading on that possibility this morning. I wanted to correct the earlier post/reply the the book says fuel pressure is26,48 psi so is the scanner giving me wrong info then or is 48-70 psi more overkill?

 

WELL I CHECKED THE FPDM IT IS CRACKED. HOWEVER AFTER I HOOKED THE pressure gauge for fuel i saw the i was getting around 30psi. if i snap the throttle the pressure will shoot up to mid forty then settle and still hang around 30 psi, according to the Shop manual its considered acceptable. I'm starting to back track all the way to possible vacuum issue. however does anyone know what FP% PID should be at when cruising cause mine is around 20 -25 psi. is this duty cycle or how much capacity the pump is running at. When i had the pressure gauge hooked up i commanded the pump ON with the scanner and pressure went well over 60, i turned it off and it settled back down to 30 psi.I understand that FPDM get a signal from ECM when more fuel is need and increase the duty cycle of the pump. But after looking at both banks LTFM its still showing bank 2 still lean. of course when i try to accelerate it still bucks and jerks stumble like its starving for fuel. But why is that when pressure is at the required level?
So back to the Vacum testing, why does my gauge stay steady and indicate no loss of vacum?i used carb spray to possibly get lucky by spraying around the manifold still came up empty handed.so i always get bank 2 LEAN code never bank one.any ideas out there? some say throw new gaskets on manifold to see if that change but i really want to diagnose it, not just throw money at until the problem go away.

 

For anyone just getting on to this reply please read my earlier post.after I put in new sparkplugs. Idle was rough with numerous false codes that can make anyone chase ghost s. It turned out that one of the new plugs was defective? It was internally shorting out when I entered the cylinder contribution test on my scan tool it shows that all cylinders were reading zeros except number 8 which happens to be BANK 2! , however it was not register ing the missfire, but it was partially firing. Which was giving a bank2 lean code. Its a first for me but hope it helps others.. But if you take a look at my previous post this plug could easily fool someone. I mean the damn thing looks normal and shows no sign of damage at all, I'll post pix of the the culprit later.

 

can anyone tell me if someone changes the oil and changes the grade of oil could that take out the cam phazer sensor