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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 09:37 AM
  #1  
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Ignition problem

My Son has a 95' XLT Bronco and he comes home last night and says the ABS and Brake lights are on all the time, the speedometer doesn't work, and the OD light is flashing. Also, his ignition switch is very hard to turn.

Now this morning, the ABS/Brake are no longer on steady. The OD light is not flashing, and the speedometer works, but the ignition is extremely hard to turn. It doesn't click, like it does between on and start. The steering wheel does lock when the key is turned to off. Is it possible a defective switch could be the cause of all of the above? All initial electrical circuits work through the ON of the switch so it stands to reason that it could be the source of the problem.

I saw a previous post concerning some of the same problems that were finally attributed to a fuse. I checked that and we're good on all fuses.
Since all the initial problems have not returned except for a hard to turn switch would pulling codes do anything?

Any input on this would be appreciated. He has to drive it back to Camp Lejeune next week so I have this weekend to fix it.

Any ideas?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 01:08 PM
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I just replaced an ignition actuator on my 1990 Bronco that broke. The symptom was the key would turn but there was no start. The switch on the lower top of the column still worked to start the truck but the rod coming down the outside of the column wasn't being actuated by the key switch. Ford has many of these actuators in stock, the counter man told me this is by design because this piece is the cheapest part to let break. Then I laughed. The electrical issues might be caused by a grounding problem.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 03:16 PM
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I'm going to replace the ignition cylinder because if I jiggle it I can get lights to go on or off. However, the idea about the control rod is something I've never looked into. If there's something impeding the movement of that rod, wiring or a hose, it would account for hard to turn issue with the ignition switch......Thank's for the idea.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 07:35 PM
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alxsnmr
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on the 87 to 91 columns, there was a pot metal linkaged that connected the key switch to the ignition actuation rod. If it became bent and weakend, it could become very difficult to turn, and eventually break off leaving you with nothing. On his particular truck, he could have a combination of problems that are not related. I dont know about the column as my truck is a 91 and never messed with a 92+ column, if it is similar to the 91 column then switching out the tumbler will not do anything but give you a new tumbler. The ABS and speedo though are controlled by the VSS on the rear axle, if it fails it will cause a loss of ABS and speedo.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 07:48 PM
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I'm replacing the switch assembly for another reason also. As you turn the switch there is an on, start and accessory. When you get on, you feel resistance in the switch when you go to start which should automatically return to on. I don't have that resistance. It's one motion from off to start. Also, there is no accessory when you switch backwards from on. I'm going to see if there's a connecting rod in the column tomorrow. For some reason I think there's something in it's way causing it to move hard. I had the air bag, steering wheel and clockspring off to see in the workings moved as they should and all looks ok. Nothing in the way there and when you turn the key the plastic detent moves with the switch. It just was an all at once thing. It was fine then things went haywire.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 07:53 PM
  #6  
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Also, as of this morning everything was back to normal except for the switch being hard to turn. After I put everything back together and started the vehicle the E-brake light stayed on until I jiggled the switch. ABS light was out and speedometer worked fine.

A Ghost in the machine kind of thing.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 09:10 PM
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First off the ignition actuator rod problem is primarily an 87-91 issue so that is an unlikely fix.

The keyswitch cylinder can get gummy and if it's been replaced make certain that the bore for the cylinder is clear and free of crud.

Something to make certain of as well is that the shift linkage has little to no slop in it. A misaligned shift lever not only can send incorrect information through the MLPS but it can leave the lockout pawl partially engaged. Both of these conditions have the potential to cause the kinds of problems you are experiencing.

At the base of the steering column inside the truck there are a pair of screws that hold the shift linkage securely. They are prone to working loose over time.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 09:16 PM
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Thank You! I'll check the linkage for play in the morning as well. This is one of those problems that won't come back when you're lookin' for it but will rear up when you don't want it too.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 01:12 PM
  #9  
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Hey Greystreak92, checked the linkage and it's tight as can be. Replaced the tumbler assembly and got exactly what alxsnmr said I'd get, a new tumbler that turns as hard as the original. Another thing I notice on this Bronco is alot play in the steering wheel at the top of the column only. I know these are built to collapse in a crash but the play is where this section meets the main shaft. I can push the steering wheel in about a 1/4 ".
It doesn't seem to affect the steering of the vehicle but I am concerned about it. I can still wiggle key and get the initial warning lights, the ones that light when you go to start it then are supposed to go out, so I'm thinkin' the main connector contacts and the hard to turn are related. Like a piece broke off inside the connector body and is interfering with everything. Anybody ever replace the white connector box in the column?

Still lookin' for ideas....
 
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