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Very little power???

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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:40 PM
  #1  
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abnkeis
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Very little power???

I have 93 f250 and all of a sudden its started lacking power. It started with a rough idle and the throttle being hard to push almost like a real tight spring. It would then go back to normal after warming up, however as soon as I shut it off and started it back up it would do it again. After a few drives like that it just stayed in that mode with very little acceleration or top end. I went ahead and put a new filter on and that did nothing. I tried running 2 cans of sea foam through the the new filter by taking the lift pump hose off and sucking it through that way. Then I couldn't even get it started, so I put a new lift pump on and got it running, but still no power hardly and it will die if revved up at all and then let to idle. If i am careful I can ease down the RPM's and get it to idle nice and smooth.

Any thoughts? Is it worth trying to run a different conditioner through the filter?
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 11:14 PM
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Festus Hagen
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It's easier to pull the fuel filter, empty it and fill it with your preferred Diesel Fuel Injection Cleaner and Lubricator.

After you do that, start the motor for 30 to 60 seconds and shut off, let set for a half hour or more, basically the longer the better within reason, Start it up and run it hard.

Though I suspect you IP is bad and Cleaners, Lubricators are not going to help.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 09:27 AM
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I would have just pulled the filter, but thought maybe I should run some cleaner through the lift pump while I was at it.

I may try a different cleaner one more time before I decide to replace the IP.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 09:54 PM
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abnkeis,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.

It sounds like something in the govenor is stuck or binding.

If you fill the filter with Diesel Kleen or some other cleaner/lubricant, the start the engine for 30 seconds and turn it off.

Now let the cleaner sit in the IP for a couple hours.

You may get lucky and it may break the stuck linkage loose.

If not, it does sound like an IP replacement is in order.

How many miles on this IP?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 11:16 PM
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Thank for the welcome!
Filling the filter with Diesel Kleen was what I did tonight, and it ran for about 30 seconds when I was about to shut it off and it died. I have not been able to get it to start back up yet. I've tried on and off through out the evening.

The truck has 170k miles, I've had it for about 3 years and less than 10k put on. This is the first real issue I have had.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 11:27 AM
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There is air in the system, why is the Q, did you fill the filter completely full?
Do you get good flow and pressure out of the schrader valve?

One things for sure ... It's sat in Diesel Kleen long enough...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 11:52 AM
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The filter was filled clear up, but the last couple times I have pulled it off it has only been half full.
I only had a digital tire gauge to read the pressure at the schrader vavle at was getting 2.5, so I replaced the lift pump, but still getting about the same reading. I seemed to get a little under a pint in 10 seconds of cranking, but it wasn't a real accurate collection.
I was wondering if it could be the line coming from the tank, but wouldn't think so if filling the filter with Diesel Kleen would make it go from running to not running.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 12:05 PM
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Half full filter means you are getting air someplace.

When you did the flow test out the schrader valve was the fuel Aerated?
That would indicate that the lift pump is sucking air on the suction side. (lines to the tank)

You should get 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of cranking and about 6 lbs.
However I suspect your pressure test with the tire gauge is flawed.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 06:04 PM
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If you filled the filter all the way up, then ran the engine and it stalled 30 seconds later with the filter only 1/2 full you may be sucking air somewhere in the supply line.

Normally the line is metal from the tank selector valve toward the engine.
Inspect the line under and near any clamps for rust.
You may or may not see a fuel stain at the problem area depending on how advanced the rust damage is.

Also some people have trouble with the O rings in the fuel line to sending unit connections and the tank selector valve connections.

Does it do the same thing on either tank?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 10:20 PM
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Well I am finally getting back to my truck now that I got a few other projects out of the way.

The last checks I did to my truck was to crack an injector line and I was barely getting any fuel out, so I checked the filter and this time it was full. I may have had an air leak, because I did had a few connections that were a little loose, but after tightening them up it still was acting the same and not starting.
A pressure test with a real gauge this time at the filter read the proper psi.

So...I have since went ahead and bought a rebuilt injection pump and injectors, hoping that is it and probably needing it anyways. However my question now is... I am wondering how much pressure it should take to blow through the return line at the back of the engine. I plugged one of the return lines off the tee and blew through other back to the tank. It took all I had (lung capacity) to get air through the line and then I could just barely keep it flowing. Is this normal or should it be easier? It does have a full tank too. I just thought I would check before I get everything else on and find out that is part of the problem.

Thanks for the help!!!
 
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Old Aug 5, 2009 | 09:37 PM
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Take the fuel cap off, it shoulds be easier to blow in the line then.

Tank vents have a roll over check valve in them, air in, not out.

Injection pump, injectors and the return line kit, you should be rolling for several more years with no problems now.
 
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