Very little power???
Any thoughts? Is it worth trying to run a different conditioner through the filter?
After you do that, start the motor for 30 to 60 seconds and shut off, let set for a half hour or more, basically the longer the better within reason, Start it up and run it hard.
Though I suspect you IP is bad and Cleaners, Lubricators are not going to help.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
It sounds like something in the govenor is stuck or binding.
If you fill the filter with Diesel Kleen or some other cleaner/lubricant, the start the engine for 30 seconds and turn it off.
Now let the cleaner sit in the IP for a couple hours.
You may get lucky and it may break the stuck linkage loose.
If not, it does sound like an IP replacement is in order.
How many miles on this IP?
Filling the filter with Diesel Kleen was what I did tonight, and it ran for about 30 seconds when I was about to shut it off and it died. I have not been able to get it to start back up yet. I've tried on and off through out the evening.
The truck has 170k miles, I've had it for about 3 years and less than 10k put on. This is the first real issue I have had.
Do you get good flow and pressure out of the schrader valve?
One things for sure ... It's sat in Diesel Kleen long enough...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
I only had a digital tire gauge to read the pressure at the schrader vavle at was getting 2.5, so I replaced the lift pump, but still getting about the same reading. I seemed to get a little under a pint in 10 seconds of cranking, but it wasn't a real accurate collection.
I was wondering if it could be the line coming from the tank, but wouldn't think so if filling the filter with Diesel Kleen would make it go from running to not running.
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When you did the flow test out the schrader valve was the fuel Aerated?
That would indicate that the lift pump is sucking air on the suction side. (lines to the tank)
You should get 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of cranking and about 6 lbs.
However I suspect your pressure test with the tire gauge is flawed.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Normally the line is metal from the tank selector valve toward the engine.
Inspect the line under and near any clamps for rust.
You may or may not see a fuel stain at the problem area depending on how advanced the rust damage is.
Also some people have trouble with the O rings in the fuel line to sending unit connections and the tank selector valve connections.
Does it do the same thing on either tank?
The last checks I did to my truck was to crack an injector line and I was barely getting any fuel out, so I checked the filter and this time it was full. I may have had an air leak, because I did had a few connections that were a little loose, but after tightening them up it still was acting the same and not starting.
A pressure test with a real gauge this time at the filter read the proper psi.
So...I have since went ahead and bought a rebuilt injection pump and injectors, hoping that is it and probably needing it anyways. However my question now is... I am wondering how much pressure it should take to blow through the return line at the back of the engine. I plugged one of the return lines off the tee and blew through other back to the tank. It took all I had (lung capacity) to get air through the line and then I could just barely keep it flowing. Is this normal or should it be easier? It does have a full tank too. I just thought I would check before I get everything else on and find out that is part of the problem.
Thanks for the help!!!
Tank vents have a roll over check valve in them, air in, not out.
Injection pump, injectors and the return line kit, you should be rolling for several more years with no problems now.




