'91 7.3l radiator question
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'91 7.3l radiator question
my 1991 F-250 has 255k miles on. While she runs fine I am a little concerned about my cooling system. The reservoir is broken where the hose enters it so it does not create a seal. The radiator leaks about a gallon of fluid every 3-4k mi. Looking in filler hole I can see all the fins encrusted with white gunk. She has never overheated on me but should I be worried about cavitation? I do not have a turbo system. What do y'all think?
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: florida
my 1991 F-250 has 255k miles on. While she runs fine I am a little concerned about my cooling system. The reservoir is broken where the hose enters it so it does not create a seal. The radiator leaks about a gallon of fluid every 3-4k mi. Looking in filler hole I can see all the fins encrusted with white gunk. She has never overheated on me but should I be worried about cavitation? I do not have a turbo system. What do y'all think?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
On my tank the hose extends into the tank.
Make sure you cut a V in the end of the hose so it don't get sucked against the side or bottom of the tank and you will be fine.
Not sure if they changed the tank style on later years or not.
Make sure you cut a V in the end of the hose so it don't get sucked against the side or bottom of the tank and you will be fine.
Not sure if they changed the tank style on later years or not.
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that is exactly the way mine is i was just wondering if it mattered that the plastic was broken where the hose enters and there is a little plastic protrusion where it clamps around the hose.
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From: Virginia
My radiator is in the same condition. I took mine to a radiator shop, but he would not touch it. Besides the white stuff inside, it also had white stuff growing on the outside at the bottom. He said this is a sign it's been seeping at the bottom, and the hard water(the white stuff) has been somewhat sealing it off. He said if he dipped it to clean it, it would surely leak and would be too far gone to fix.
He told me to get a new radiator, or I could try and keep running this one and see how long it lasts. I am saving up right now to buy a new one. They are about $350 at the local parts stores. I am still running the old one, but I also have to add coolant to the overflow bottle once in awhile. I also put a 7lb cap on it to help it out a little bit.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Kuna ID
Dont add the SCA's if you have regular coolant. You need to be running a low silicate antifreeze and distilled water. The SCA's mix with the silicates in regular antifreeze and the minerals in tap water and can form a slugde plugging up portions of your cooling system.
I am going through the process of changing out my cooling system since I dont know what the PO was running. I had to replace my water pump, but I am getting the radiator cleaned and will remove as much coolant from the rest of the system as possible. I went to the cummins shop and got 8 gallons of 50/50 fleetguard antifreeze which already has the SCA's added to it.
I am going through the process of changing out my cooling system since I dont know what the PO was running. I had to replace my water pump, but I am getting the radiator cleaned and will remove as much coolant from the rest of the system as possible. I went to the cummins shop and got 8 gallons of 50/50 fleetguard antifreeze which already has the SCA's added to it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I am not a fan of running antifreeze with silicates in it either.
The silicates are added to antifreeze to protect the aluminum in modern engines.
There is no aluminum in our engines, heater core and radiator are both brass, so there is no need for silicates in our cooling systems.
And yes, the SCA can cause the silicates to precipitate out of the coolant.
Solder bloom can happen normally, but is definitely aggravated by tap water being added to the cooling system.
Using either distilled water and full strength antifreeze or the pre-diluted 50/50 mix are the best options.
The silicates are added to antifreeze to protect the aluminum in modern engines.
There is no aluminum in our engines, heater core and radiator are both brass, so there is no need for silicates in our cooling systems.
And yes, the SCA can cause the silicates to precipitate out of the coolant.
Solder bloom can happen normally, but is definitely aggravated by tap water being added to the cooling system.
Using either distilled water and full strength antifreeze or the pre-diluted 50/50 mix are the best options.
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I have just been using the prestone green stuff and distilled water. so if i flush her out and put in the heavy duty truck stuff that they have that would be sufficient? i forget the name of it. i used it in our boat before we sold it. is there a good flushing chemical i should use?