Noisy Differential
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Noisy Differential
'94 E350 with E4OD transmission; rear wheel drive.
ID tag on the differential is 4.56 F4US CB 605701-1
Bought it on the side of the road with a bad transmission; swapped in a good one, and drove it home. What I didn't know at the time of purchase is that the differential growls like a mad bear on a bad day; changed the oil and found relatively new gasket material around the cover with metal filings inside. It's still noisy while accelerating, especially after driving for awhile, and it gets almost too hot to hold your hand on it.
So, my questions: is there any hope for an easy fix? Tighten something up, maybe? Different oil? What is the most common thing to go bad inside, and how much trouble is it to re-build/repair?
Thanks,
Steve
ID tag on the differential is 4.56 F4US CB 605701-1
Bought it on the side of the road with a bad transmission; swapped in a good one, and drove it home. What I didn't know at the time of purchase is that the differential growls like a mad bear on a bad day; changed the oil and found relatively new gasket material around the cover with metal filings inside. It's still noisy while accelerating, especially after driving for awhile, and it gets almost too hot to hold your hand on it.
So, my questions: is there any hope for an easy fix? Tighten something up, maybe? Different oil? What is the most common thing to go bad inside, and how much trouble is it to re-build/repair?
Thanks,
Steve
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Better open it up before it really costs money to fix it.
Ring and pinion gear set or one of the bearings is going out.
With metal shavings, I would replace all of the bearings wheel to wheel if you want it to be reliable transportation.
And you need to find where the shavings are coming from and fix that before you drive it.
Ring and pinion gear set or one of the bearings is going out.
With metal shavings, I would replace all of the bearings wheel to wheel if you want it to be reliable transportation.
And you need to find where the shavings are coming from and fix that before you drive it.
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When I had it open I tried to see something worn or damaged; no luck. Maybe I should have lifted a wheel and turned it while looking; the big fat diesel tank is within four inches of the back cover, so that doesn't help anything.
Would it be easier to repair this one, or find a whole rear-end at a junkyard and just replace it?
Thanks,
Steve
Would it be easier to repair this one, or find a whole rear-end at a junkyard and just replace it?
Thanks,
Steve
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Rear differentials for the F series are rathe cheap and easy to find.
I think the spring perches are in a different location on the E series.
The bad thing about salvage yard parts is, 45 days after you install it, you may be having the same problem again.
Going through the axle will cost more, but it it is done propperly you should be worry free for many years.
It has been 10 years or so ago I went through mine completely after a locker grenaded.
Went with limited slip, ring and pinion and all new bearings for just under 1000 dollars at a local driveline shop.
I baby my truck every day.
That picture is 9200 pounds of rock on my F250 which puts the gross a bit over 17,000 pounds.
I think the spring perches are in a different location on the E series.
The bad thing about salvage yard parts is, 45 days after you install it, you may be having the same problem again.
Going through the axle will cost more, but it it is done propperly you should be worry free for many years.
It has been 10 years or so ago I went through mine completely after a locker grenaded.
Went with limited slip, ring and pinion and all new bearings for just under 1000 dollars at a local driveline shop.
I baby my truck every day.
That picture is 9200 pounds of rock on my F250 which puts the gross a bit over 17,000 pounds.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: hawaii
they arent too hard to rebuild,just follow the specifications to the t, bearing pre load get it right that is the biggest thing, well and the wear pattern on the gears too i guess. but too much pre load and it will seize up on you within 500 miles
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From: s.e. wisconsin
definatly a bad bearing i would get one from a junk yard in my f150 i decided to change the gear lube because i was going on a trip it wasnt making much noise about what you could expect from a rearend with almost 200000 miles on it i pulled the cover and the lube looked like silver metalic paint and i said uh oh thats not good cleaned everything up and it looked good turned the tire and the carrier would jump up and down almost an inch inside the housing so the next morning i made a drive to the junk yard and started pulling covers and counting teeth i took the one that looked the best and i threw it in that day and left later that day for my trip it cost me $100
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Thanks, guys. With a better idea of what to look for now, I'm going to open it back up today, check it out more carefully, and try to decide what to do. It's now my work truck and I need it everyday, so a quick fix is a big part of the issue for me.
Steve
Steve
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Methanoholic
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From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Check you pinion yoke nut, they are notorious for coming loose and wiping out the ring and pinion. Unfortunately if it was loose before you got the truck and was tightened, it's likely been over tightened and has now eaten pinion bearings as well.
I suspect it's the ring and pinion thats howling, not bearings!
I personally am not a fan of JY purchased rear ends stuffed in without rebuilding!
You can save yourself a ton of money rebuilding a rear end before they go bad, once they go bad they typically wipe out most everything!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
I suspect it's the ring and pinion thats howling, not bearings!
I personally am not a fan of JY purchased rear ends stuffed in without rebuilding!
You can save yourself a ton of money rebuilding a rear end before they go bad, once they go bad they typically wipe out most everything!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
No matter where the metal came from, it will have the bearings in bad shape in a rather short amount of time.
If you do it yourself, don't forget to swab out the axle tubes to get all of the metal shavings out.
Preload, mesh pattern and back lash are all critical if you expect it to last.
A clean housing is also critical before you put it back together.
I will build an engine, but transmission, transfer case and differential work all goes over to a friend that has the place and tools to do it right.
If you do it yourself, don't forget to swab out the axle tubes to get all of the metal shavings out.
Preload, mesh pattern and back lash are all critical if you expect it to last.
A clean housing is also critical before you put it back together.
I will build an engine, but transmission, transfer case and differential work all goes over to a friend that has the place and tools to do it right.
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Thanks to everyone for the help and information; I probably would not have even tackled the project without your help. It was the ring and pinion making the noise; a couple of the pinion gears looked like something had taken a few bites out of them. I was able to replace the gears and bearings myself, but I do understand the good advice to let someone with the proper tools and experience do it. It was not a fun little project, but it's smooth and quiet now.
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks,
Steve
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