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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 03:58 PM
  #16  
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From: Mexifornia
Originally Posted by JockD


Do you know anyone nearby that has a 7.3 truck that would hook up to your trailer and take a drive over a route so you can compare power? Real world performance is what counts, not published horsepower. There have been numerous posts by FTE members towing heavy trailers, so contact them and get them to tell you the speeds and weights that they can maintain up known grades.
As for towing yes my friend and his dad have 3: 1999, 2000, and 2001.

All F350s CC 4wd.

He has the '01 and tows a 28' 5er. His dad has the '99 and '01 and tows an exact 5er (they bought them the same day) with the '99.

His dad can tow over Sonora pass with ease with the '99, but not with the '01. Someone mentioned forged parts in the '99 and '00....both trucks are stock.

Just something that stuck in my mind I guess. I have driven his '01 quite a bit and even towed his Ranger boat with it and it's a dog...has so little power. Ford says its perfectly fine, but it really does lack power.

For those of you that dont know Sonora pass it's here in CA and goes up over 9000'. Not something I'd even consider pulling a trailer up. It's nasty and has unbelieveable grades.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 06:15 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by vettdvr
My question for the 7.3 is with box stock no chip will towing 10,000 #'s be an issue pulling from Ga to NM at 70 mph ? This is a 2000 w/auto 4wd. You mentioned a cracked piston. Just trying to stay ahead of the crack.

Thanks. vettdvr

My son will be pulling with his 6.0. So far it has been a good truck but at about 70,000 miles the turbo is being replaced so the verdict is still out on it.
If you have 4.10's
You'll get there just fine, but won't be able to maintain 70 on anything more than a 4-5% grade.
Anything shallower than that, no problem.
If you have 3.73's it will be a struggle on (guessing) anything more than 3%. Lot's of downshifting.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 06:49 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
If you have 4.10's
You'll get there just fine, but won't be able to maintain 70 on anything more than a 4-5% grade.
Anything shallower than that, no problem.
If you have 3.73's it will be a struggle on (guessing) anything more than 3%. Lot's of downshifting.
It has the 3.73 and auto.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 12:23 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by vettdvr
It has the 3.73 and auto.
You'll do OK on the flats, but come out west where the real hills are and you'll find yourself in second gear a few times.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 02:08 AM
  #20  
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Go back and re-read Post #10 above.

Very sound advice, from one who has BTDT.

Pop
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 07:22 AM
  #21  
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by bczolone
As for towing yes my friend and his dad have 3: 1999, 2000, and 2001.

All F350s CC 4wd.

He has the '01 and tows a 28' 5er. His dad has the '99 and '01 and tows an exact 5er (they bought them the same day) with the '99.

His dad can tow over Sonora pass with ease with the '99, but not with the '01. Someone mentioned forged parts in the '99 and '00....both trucks are stock.

Just something that stuck in my mind I guess. I have driven his '01 quite a bit and even towed his Ranger boat with it and it's a dog...has so little power. Ford says its perfectly fine, but it really does lack power.

For those of you that dont know Sonora pass it's here in CA and goes up over 9000'. Not something I'd even consider pulling a trailer up. It's nasty and has unbelieveable grades.
I'll bet the '01 has 3.73 gears.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 08:58 AM
  #22  
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From: Mexifornia
How do I check the gears on the used ones I'm looking at. Is it on a door sticker somewhere?

Should I look for only the 4:10s?
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 09:12 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by bczolone
How do I check the gears on the used ones I'm looking at. Is it on a door sticker somewhere?

Should I look for only the 4:10s?
Nothing wrong with a 3.73 the 4.10 will use more fuel but will tow heavier loads a little better.

Both are good so I would not pass a good deal on a 3.73 for a more expensive 4.1 unless I really did a low of towing on a regular basis.

But that is only "my" opinion of course and your's may vary.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 11:43 AM
  #24  
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From: Mexifornia
Well here's the latest "dope"...there's a diesel shop here(both big rigs and light trucks) where the owner says go with the 7.3L.

I explained my needs and this is what he says I should have done and what they will charge:

Suncoast Trans: 3000.00
Programmer w/gauges: 500.00 (60hp)
Tranny cooler w/ electric fans: 500.00
Exhaust brake: 1000.00??? not sure which one.

With this he said I'd have both a reliable and excellent 7.3L.

He also said if I bring him any truck I'm thinking about he'll look it over and giver his opinion.

Does this sound right?
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 11:46 AM
  #25  
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Sounds fair, but you could do stuff like the gauges, tuner (DON'T buy a programmer!), trans cooler, etc. yourself and save some coin.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 11:55 AM
  #26  
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Trans cooler, even a new OEM unit from the 6.0, which is a favorite around here from Ed, will run you less than 300. You can get them on ebay for around 1/2 that if youre patient enough. DP Tuner with the decel tune (exhaust brake of sorts) and gauges will run you MAYBE 700 depending on all the tunes you get.

The transmission is the only thing I dont know a whole lot about. I know a lot of folks go BTS or John Wood. I dont know much about Suncoast.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 02:44 PM
  #27  
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From: Mexifornia
Originally Posted by superduty4x4
Sounds fair, but you could do stuff like the gauges, tuner (DON'T buy a programmer!), trans cooler, etc. yourself and save some coin.
What's the difference between programmer and tuner and which tuner is most recommended. He said 60hp would be perfect.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 03:15 PM
  #28  
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Ok most programmers are off the shelf type deals. Super chips, hypertech, diablo, blah blah blah....they are ok, but for the same or even less you can get DP Tuner, PHP, or Tony Wildman tunes and be so much happier. I paid 329 for my DP tuner and its SO much better than my super chip was. DP, PHP, and TW are really chips that you insert into the ECM and it basically installs it on programs. With these type of chips you can switch on the fly, unlike superchips and the others. You can chose a variety of HP levels, economy modes, decel tunes, towing tunes, etc with these custom chips.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 08:32 AM
  #29  
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by bczolone
Well here's the latest "dope"...there's a diesel shop here(both big rigs and light trucks) where the owner says go with the 7.3L.

I explained my needs and this is what he says I should have done and what they will charge:

Suncoast Trans: 3000.00
Programmer w/gauges: 500.00 (60hp)
Tranny cooler w/ electric fans: 500.00
Exhaust brake: 1000.00??? not sure which one.

With this he said I'd have both a reliable and excellent 7.3L.

He also said if I bring him any truck I'm thinking about he'll look it over and giver his opinion.

Does this sound right?
I have issues with every one of those suggestions, sort of.
You can do a lot better with a John Wood or BTS transmission, but they are also a lot more expensive.
Gauges are good, but get a chip instead.
Or get a programmer with either DP-Tuner or Power Hungry Performance or Tony Wildman tunes installed.
Like Tristan says, the chip is handier because you can turn it up or down at will, but the programmers also have some handy diagnostic tools built in that you cannot get with a chip.
Tranny cooler, no issues there. Bigger the better.
$1000.00 for an exhaust brake?
You can convert the EBPV to be used as an exhaust brake for about $20.00 and an afternoon's work. It doesn't work quite as good as a bona-fide $1000.00 unit, but IMO it's good enough. My conversion enables me to coast down some pretty steep hills and only have to lightly touch the brakes every 1/2 mile or so.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 03:33 PM
  #30  
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From: Mexifornia
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
I have issues with every one of those suggestions, sort of.
You can do a lot better with a John Wood or BTS transmission, but they are also a lot more expensive.
Gauges are good, but get a chip instead.
Or get a programmer with either DP-Tuner or Power Hungry Performance or Tony Wildman tunes installed.
Like Tristan says, the chip is handier because you can turn it up or down at will, but the programmers also have some handy diagnostic tools built in that you cannot get with a chip.
Tranny cooler, no issues there. Bigger the better.
$1000.00 for an exhaust brake?
You can convert the EBPV to be used as an exhaust brake for about $20.00 and an afternoon's work. It doesn't work quite as good as a bona-fide $1000.00 unit, but IMO it's good enough. My conversion enables me to coast down some pretty steep hills and only have to lightly touch the brakes every 1/2 mile or so.

I need to get some printer paper and print all this advice! Thanks.

So I drove the truck today about 50 miles to check it all out and had the diesel guy look it over.

1st here's what he said:

1. he wouldn't hesitate to buy it IF the price was at low book (12,300) vs. the 15,000 the guy is asking.
2. Other than them doing the trans. he said I could easily do all the rest myself.

2nd here's what I noticed on the drive:

1. It's a dog compared to my 6.0L
2. It's out of alignment-pulling to the left.
3. The power mirrors don't work.
4. The rotors are slightly warped... pulsing at low speed braking.
5. The front windshield is cracked.

So I'm at the deciding stage. Should I offer less or keep looking, I'm in NO hurry.
 
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