Start up procedures & tips
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Redsox Nation, Mass
Start up procedures & tips
Hey folks,
I'm hoping to get my 292 running this summer. I'm close to getting the painted cab back on the frame and wiring should go smoothly after that. Ideally, I'd like to get this engine running! Its a rebuilt 292 with ramshorns and an edelbrock carb w/ an MSD ignition. So... not quite stock but still a Y block!
First question is how to prime it -- can I use the distributor shaft w/ a drill trick? Also, what should I use for initial timing? I think the builder advanced it a bit for startup.
My last question is about the oil pan & dipstick. The rebuilt engine was from a car. I switched the correct oil pan, but the dipstick is still located in the front. So the dipstick hits the bottom of the pan.
Can I just trim the dipstick and score a new 5qt line on it? Moving it to the middle will be tricky with the ramshorn manifolds. The back location might work but that sounds like a lot of work now that engine is bolted to the frame with a tranny attached.
Thanks in advance...
Jack
I'm hoping to get my 292 running this summer. I'm close to getting the painted cab back on the frame and wiring should go smoothly after that. Ideally, I'd like to get this engine running! Its a rebuilt 292 with ramshorns and an edelbrock carb w/ an MSD ignition. So... not quite stock but still a Y block!
First question is how to prime it -- can I use the distributor shaft w/ a drill trick? Also, what should I use for initial timing? I think the builder advanced it a bit for startup.
My last question is about the oil pan & dipstick. The rebuilt engine was from a car. I switched the correct oil pan, but the dipstick is still located in the front. So the dipstick hits the bottom of the pan.
Can I just trim the dipstick and score a new 5qt line on it? Moving it to the middle will be tricky with the ramshorn manifolds. The back location might work but that sounds like a lot of work now that engine is bolted to the frame with a tranny attached.
Thanks in advance...
Jack
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 4
From: Southern Oregon
Hey folks,
I'm hoping to get my 292 running this summer. I'm close to getting the painted cab back on the frame and wiring should go smoothly after that. Ideally, I'd like to get this engine running! Its a rebuilt 292 with ramshorns and an edelbrock carb w/ an MSD ignition. So... not quite stock but still a Y block!
First question is how to prime it -- can I use the distributor shaft w/ a drill trick? Also, what should I use for initial timing? I think the builder advanced it a bit for startup.
My last question is about the oil pan & dipstick. The rebuilt engine was from a car. I switched the correct oil pan, but the dipstick is still located in the front. So the dipstick hits the bottom of the pan.
Can I just trim the dipstick and score a new 5qt line on it? Moving it to the middle will be tricky with the ramshorn manifolds. The back location might work but that sounds like a lot of work now that engine is bolted to the frame with a tranny attached.
Thanks in advance...
Jack
I'm hoping to get my 292 running this summer. I'm close to getting the painted cab back on the frame and wiring should go smoothly after that. Ideally, I'd like to get this engine running! Its a rebuilt 292 with ramshorns and an edelbrock carb w/ an MSD ignition. So... not quite stock but still a Y block!
First question is how to prime it -- can I use the distributor shaft w/ a drill trick? Also, what should I use for initial timing? I think the builder advanced it a bit for startup.
My last question is about the oil pan & dipstick. The rebuilt engine was from a car. I switched the correct oil pan, but the dipstick is still located in the front. So the dipstick hits the bottom of the pan.
Can I just trim the dipstick and score a new 5qt line on it? Moving it to the middle will be tricky with the ramshorn manifolds. The back location might work but that sounds like a lot of work now that engine is bolted to the frame with a tranny attached.
Thanks in advance...
Jack
You can prime it with dist. removed, using either an old dist. shaft or one purchased at the parts store. Make sure the drill runs in reverse since the dist. turns counterclockwise.
Try 8 degrees initial timing, and check with light as soon as possible after start. 8-10 degrees is the norm.
On my previous truck engine I had a front dipstick, trimmed down with a mark scribed at 5 quarts full. Never felt real good about it. Once I drained the oil and carefully measured the amount that came out. Dipstick showed between full and 1/2 quart low. It was actually 1 1/2 quarts low.
If there is a new cam and lifters do the cam breakin on first startup. Make sure a good oil with ZDDP is used, and it wouldnt hurt to add CompCams breakin additive.
If the rebuild is for a car you will need a truck timing cover. Another difference that may or may not have to be dealt with is the water pump shaft, 5/8 in. car 3/4 in. truck. Cars had slightly larger water pump pulleys too. I use a car pump and pulley in my '46. The larger pulley slows down the pump speed a little, but no problem if you arent making a workhorse.
I had to shorten the dipstick housing a little, maybe 6-8 inches for my Rams Horns. Then bent it into a radius, and shortened the dipstick an equal amount, scribing a mark at full and one quart low.
