I just replaced a busted timing belt on my 98 ranger 2.5l, followed all directions in the chilton and All Pro and when I turned it over, it started right away but had a bad knock and truck was rocking so I killed immediately, normally I would say this was bad timing but according to the manuals, I put it at TDC, aligned the cam shaft with the triangle, and oil pump to the diamond... am I missing something here or is there something more wrong here? any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Welcome to FTE.

Are you certain that the #1 piston was on it's compression stroke, when you aligned the crankshaft timing mark????

 

You can expect a little rough running after a belt break. "stuff" could have been left in the combustion chambers on shutdown, etc. Check the spark plugs, as one may be fouled, which could cause misfire.
tom

 

Yeah it was TDC, was able to see down the tube with a flashlight and watch the piston rise/fall. Also I let it run a little longer and the bad knock/vibrations stopped but still had a bit of a knock, but right after it smoothed out the engine died - fuel pump is shot =( im not hearing it kick on anymore.... i had been playing with the inhertia switch previously because it was in a wreck, so I am not sure if I fried a relay or what but I am still getting 12v back to the harness right before the wires dissapear on top of the fuel tank, figure ill drop it down today and see for sure -

 

You might try Thumping the fuel pump, or tank, to see if it'll wake up.

Those that have done it say sliding the bed back to change the fuel pump is easier.

Just unhook the tail light wiring harness, fuel filler hose, unloosen the bed bolts, slide the bed back & set the rear on saw horses, the front portion on the rear tires.

You then have enough room to access the pump, without having to drop the tank.

A full tank of gas is safer to work on than an empty one, as it has less fumes in it.

Anyway be careful of static or tool sparks, hot shop lamps & open flames from smokers to gas water heaters.
As fuel fumes are heavier than air, they'll sink to the floor & travel to a water heater, furnace, or hot shop light, ect & ignite!!!! We don't want to hear about this operation in the news!!!!!

Let us know how it goes.

 

"...I am still getting 12v back to the harness right before the wires dissapear..."
I thought that the 12v was there all the time, and the computer supplied the ground to complete the circuit. You may have a bum relay. Do you hear it click? I think you can swap it with another one in the fuse box in some model years for testing purposes.
The rollover switch is pretty simple, just a ball bearing sitting in a depression formed by two pairs of contacts. Push the button a few times, and if there is a problem, it should clear up quickly.
tom

 

Awesome, ill give it a whirl, the tank is sitting at 3/4 full and was dreading dropping, so ill move the bed instead, thanks! And I have been trying to find a good wire diagram of the fuel system so I can know what wires are supposed to have juice and how much but not much luck, All Pro does not really cover the fuel system too well from what I can tell... but if that one wire always has 12v then maybe my issue is still electrical, I hope so really don't want to replace the fuel pump yet. And no I don't hear any click or nothing from the fuel pump at all... Anywho ill letchall know how the operation goes, and hopefully you will hear back from me on the forum and not the 6 o'clock news!

Oh also - on the inhertia switch, what wires do I need to jump in order to bypass the switch, I got three wires going into it, one gets around 12v and the other two are dead all the time... ill keep looking through allpro and my manual to see if I can find out on those diagrams...

 

Well lets see, at the inertia switch connection you should have two wires.

The DG/Y is the switched B+ 12 volts from the computer controlled under hood fuel pump power relay.
The PK/BK lead is B+ 12 volts out of the inertia switch to the fuel pump.

So if you wanted to bypass the inertia switch for a test, disconnect it & jumper those two wires at it's electrical connector.

If you have 12 volts to the fuel pump, if it's ok & the ground connection is good, it should run.

The computer switches the fuel pumps 12 volt B+ feed, through the fuel pump relay.

The computer will switch the pump on for about 2 seconds at KOEO, to build fuel pressure, then shut it off until the engine starts, then it'll close the fuel pumps power relay contacts & supply power through the inerta switch to the pump, as long as the engine runs, or until the inertia switch contacts open, or we turn the ignition off.

So if you have +12 volts to the pump, if it's ok & it's ground is good, it should run & build fuel pressure.

If the fuel gauge is working ok, as it shares the fuel pumps ground conection, thats likely ok

 

Well I played with the inertia switch some more, toggling it on/off shaking it some and it finally started working, truck is running without many issues, has a few hickups here and there but nothing bad for an engine with 182k miles on it... now as I was going through and testing all the systems, I kicked the AC on and it stumbled the engine, killed it, and was a pain to restart, once I got it started again the ac compressor won't kick on anymore, checked all the fuses and none are blown, but it is only getting .02 volts to the connector at the compressor... checked the two fuses, inside and out that deal with the AC, and swapped the relay and still nada - only .02 volts at the compressor...

 

Well with all the fiddeling you had to do, I'd maybe consider replacing the inertia switch.

I'd suspect the IAC on the rough idle & lack of idle up & engine stall, with the AC switched on.

On the lack of voltage to the AC compressor clutch, it sounds like an open circuit. Could be in a number of places.
If all the under hood & in cabin AC circuit fuses are good, maybe a wiring problem, or maybe an electrical connector, or maybe in the WAC (Wide Open Throttle Control) relay.
The computer controls It to break the 12 volt feed to the AC clutch at wde open throttle. So if it isn't getting a signal from the computer to close it's contacts to send 12 volts to the AC clutch, it won't work.
So listen to it when a helper switches the AC on, or maybe try thumping it, or swapping it out for a like relay & see what happens.

Or if the WAC relay is operating, maybe one of the high or low pressure refrigerant switches is open, or the in cabin fuse to the Heater/AC control panel is blown.

This fuse and the AC pressure switches switch +12 volts to the WAC relay, which then switces 12 volts to the AC clutch, IF the computer sends a voltage to close the WAC relay contacts.
WHEW!!!! lol

 

I am thinking IAC too - because I just tried driving the truck through the yard and it kept stumbling when I would go between drive/park/reverse/neutral or tried turning... going to pickup a code scanner later this week and check all the trouble codes, engine light keeps poppen on so I know some sensors gotta be jacked up - Thanks for all the help!

 

Yup if the CEL lights up there is a trouble code stored in memory & they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.

Most autoparts stores will scan the computer at no charge.
Some have a scantool or code reader in their "Loan-A-Tool" program, for a refudable deposit, if you don't want to buy one.

 

V .. check the A/C heater control head. The fan switch disables the A/C clutch when it moves to the off position. You may have a funky switch, either the fan or the A/C button.
tom

 

Thanks will do - I am just trying to figure out why it came on, but killed the engine since the IAC didn't adjust properly for the added load, and now won't come on at all... I figure it would have been a blown fuse or something but not a single fuse is blown inside or out... but I will test the switch it self to ensure it is getting the proper voltages, should it be the normal 12v in and out of the switch? Thanks!

 

Yup it's B+ 12vdc, supplied from the 15 amp instrument panel fuse #18.

The AC compressor runs in any postion except Vent & OFF.

The voltage is switched by the in cabin Heater/AC selector switch, then goes through the low & high pressure refrigerant line switches to the WOT relay, then to the AC clutch field coil.

So there is a long line of things to check for loss of power to the AC clutch coil.

If the AC system is low on refrigerant, the low pressure switch will open the circuit to the AC clutch field coil, to protect the compressor. If the system pressure is too high, the high pressure swtch will open the circuit to the clutch field coil, so the compressor won't run. If the WOT relay is bad, it will open the circuit.

A bunch more thoughts for pondering.