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Fuel Tank Modification Gone Wrong

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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 06:03 PM
  #1  
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Fuel Tank Modification Gone Wrong

All right, I took my truck in and started the Harpoon mod today and it took 5 hours to get to the tank. After cutting all eight bolts loose from the Rhino Liner, then soaking them in oil to break the rust, I thought I was done. Forgot about the gooseneck plate. So I used a monster of an impact wrench to remove the four bolts holding the plate to the cross-member frame.

First rule of maintenance: inspect your work area. No matter how big the wrench or how long the cheater bar, no amount of force will overcome a tac-welded nut. So out came the high speed cutoff wheel and forty minutes later, the plate was free.

After using the lift to raise my bed about four feet above the truck, I did as was prescribed in previous threads and started removing the outer ring securing the sending unit. Yes, I did mark the alignment of the ring for tightening reference.

Second rule of maintenance: don't mark something (that might be cleaned) with chalk. That stuff sure comes off easy. I'll be the first to confirm based on practical (more like stupid) experience. Well, everything finally came apart and I reached in and cut both tubes. Now, this is where some of the previous postings failed me. Some of them said to install in reverse order. Simple enough. Here is where I, or should I say we (the we being the certified mechanic on duty and me) were stuck.

How do we get the giant plastic nut back on. We worked it for over an hour but it kept feeling like it wanted to cross threads. When we thought we had it, it would turn out to be "cocked" at an angle. We even put a small amount of grease on the threads of the tank, didn't help.

Any ideas?
Thanks,
Spencer
 

Last edited by adamss; Jun 21, 2009 at 06:06 PM. Reason: Want to "bold" title
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 10:14 PM
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How about the possibility that the plastic threads have become burred. Gently try to re-thread with a pipe threader?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 10:17 PM
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Unfortunately, the large plastic nut holding the sending iunit is about 8 inches in diameter and maye 1 inch thick. The threads are very course, so cross threading is limited.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 10:51 PM
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One thing for sure. After reading this nitemare story the only thing i will be harpooning is whales. To gain a few gallon capacity it is just to mush to do and to much can go wrong. What ever happened to the good ol days. To pull the tank on my 85 bronco i just undid 2 straps and dropped it out the bottom. Changed sender and slapped it back together. No need for harpoon job has i think it held 38 gallon and it needed them all as the 351 HO really liked its gas. The harpoon job sounds really cool and i have thought about trying it but i will pass for now. Ford should have at least 50 gallon capacity on all SD trucks and give us more as a option. 30 gallon on the short box is way to small.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 11:05 PM
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Don't look at might story as the norm. How many want to do the harpoon mod, have their bed bolts covered in Rhino Liner, have a gooseneck plate with tac-welded bolts, and decided to go solo? I think you will fare better than i have. But, keep in mind: The worse thing that can happen is I screw it up and I pay to have it fixed.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 05:23 AM
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that is why you insist that they take the bolts out when do the spray on liner. I have the lin-X and the took all the bolts for the bed, tailgate and tie down hooks out before spraying.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 07:24 AM
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Take the plastic "Nut" in the sun and let it heat up, it will expand and thread right on. You can also soak it in hot water for a bit also.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 08:08 AM
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Or hair dryer...
 
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 11:32 AM
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Yeah, I figured out last night it is most likely a heat expansion problem. I taught jet engine maintenance for the Air Force for 10 years and that's how we get races in and out. No beating them here because of the tight tollerances. We even use Dry Ice to maximize the effect. Problem now, how do I get the two pesky lines off the sending unit?

There are two brake-line sized lines leading into the "lid". The two lines attach to rubber hoses and are held in place with 1 each plastic u-shaped "retaining" clips that slide around the aluminum tube. I stuck a small screwdriver under the apex of the clip and gently pried but stopped as I realized I could deform the clip.

Is the clip a onetime use device and I can break it knowing I have to replace them?

Once off, I can warm the lid outside (it's been almost 100 here in Biloxi, MS), or soak it in hot water. either way, I think it will work plus I can snug it down before it returns to its original size.

Any suggestions on the clips?

Thanks,
Spencer
 
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by adamss
Problem now, how do I get the two pesky lines off the sending unit?
I've not done this mod, so I can't say for sure, but I'm thinking that these clips are same as the rest of the fuel system and you need a fuel line disconnect tool... the clips should be reusable.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 12:34 PM
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Those lines are the regular clip-on ones that require the fuel line tool like you'd use on a gasser fuel filter.

The retaining ring, is a PAIN. The one on my '01 gasser broke, or was chewed, or something.

So, I had to pull the tank to replace the ring. It was a BIG pain to get it to thread onto the tank, and I had the tank out of the truck and on the ground. It seems to be a pretty tight interference fit, and I just had to grunt and swear until I got it threaded correctly.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 02:26 PM
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Maybe I've missed something...I thought you can remove the tank from the truck to do this, not remove the bed. Did I read that right?
 
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 04:00 PM
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You can work on the fuel tank one of two ways either you can raise the bed or remove/lower the tank out of the truck.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 04:58 PM
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I chose the "raise the bed" method for a few reasons.

First, I don't like working in confined places and working from under the truck didn't look that appealing. It's been 108 hear with the heat index and I hate the humidity. So, working from under the bed doesn't do me much good.

Second, lifting the bed looked easy...on paper. I always wanted to try it and now I can say I have. Future truck owners where I am moving to will benefit from my practical experience. And,

Third, I have access to the best working facilities around!!! I can honestly say there is no better shop within 200 miles. I love going in and using the equipment. At my disposal are four-9K lb lifts and one drive-on lift for oil changes. Alignment platforms, wheel balancers, an A/C flushing station, and a welding section. I understand the only task not available is a machine shop for engine rebuilding. I have total confidence in my abilities and therefore feel I will only get one chance at this; now is the time to do it.

Yeah, yeah, I'm tootin' my horn, but the club I signed up with has great benefits and they are always telling us to take advantage of them. So, Ithought I would and have been very pleased ever since.

As for the clips on the hoses, the local Ford shop mechanic told me those clips are designed to be pressed in to release their hold. He told me when you push in on the outside of the clips, the arms "bow" outward and move out of their moorings. I guess I will give it a try on Wednesday.

I will take some pix of the setup and upload them, if I can only figure out how to do it.

More to come,
Spencer
 
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 09:04 PM
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If you have a lift at your disposal, definitely drop the tank. I had mine down, fixed the gas gauge (loose wire), and back in only a few hours. GL getting it done though.
 
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