Well I tryed to tell the dealer last time that my bed plates starting to leak and sure enough I find oil on my bellhousing and find my bed plate leaking on both sides. More on the drivers side then the passenger but to say the least both sides for sure. Anyone know exactly what they use to seal the bed plate is it a gasket or a special type silcone. Luckly its under warranty still and Im gonna have it fixed reguardless as Im not gonna have it getting worse or leaking outside of warranty. I have the abilitly to pull the engine but I really dont want to outside of warranty

 

O-ring cord style gasket AND silicone in a couple spots, wherever bed plate, front cover, or rear cover meet a different part of the block. And NO, you dont want to do it yourself, Its a pain in the ***

 

I had mine done at the dealer 3-weeks ago. It took 25 hours of labor and cost Ford $4,500.00.
While the motor is out/apart have them update all TSB's such as any/all o-rings, HPOP fittings, Turbo housing, ect..
I had them do it all including installing ARP Studs (Ford paid for the Head Gaskets) and a full EGR delete. Bribe the mechanic with a few C-notes do do the EGR delete if he will.

 

I had mine done at the dealer 3-weeks ago. It took 25 hours of labor and cost Ford $4,500.00.
While the motor is out/apart have them update all TSB's such as any/all o-rings, HPOP fittings, Turbo housing, ect..
I had them do it all including installing ARP Studs (Ford paid for the Head Gaskets) and a full EGR delete. Bribe the mechanic with a few C-notes do do the EGR delete if he will.

 

Ya I was just reading your bed plate thread and noticed that you had that stuff done extra I do know the fleet service manger quite well but I really just dont have an extra 1000 to get it done to my truck I want to do the egr delete but I will throw a check engine light Im sure because I will have the egr blocked off and I run a stock tune so it will throw a code for insufficent egr flow wont it. I want to block it off at the turbo up pipe

 

Before the full EGR delete I had the Sneaky Turbo-up pipe with the Blocker plate. I threw no codes, I guess I am lucky. I run a programmer all the time so the codes are not a problem if there is any.
I was planning on purchasing the extended warranty because I am almost out of the 5/100 warranty.
I felt that $2,600.00 was to expensive for the 7/200 warranty on the engine only, so I invested (saved up) $1,000.00 on eliminating almost all the 6.0L problems.
If I had the extended warranty, the repeating offending problems will still be there and re-surface at a future date. I felt that $1,000.00 (now) was much cheaper than $2,600.00 in the long run.

 

I'm with hangon2me..... I would find the extra cash while the thing engine is out of the truck. I just did the egr delete and rr fuel return and man what a difference it made! I haven't thrown any codes yet but man if you can get the dealer to do these mods for ya i'd do it cause it's a royal pain the corn hole when the engine is still in the truck and your doing it yourself. JMO

 

Hang on, what dealer did your work. I live a little farther south but would be willing to drive for a dealer that would work with you.

 

Well I dropped my truck off and I talked to a friend who works there and he advised me that if anything is warped at all down there that they will put a short block in my truck. At that point the topic of the ARP's came up and also doing the EGR block off which I was actully talking about before the short block came up. At this point I hope it dose get a short block I'd have to find the money to buy ARP's and have them put in! keeping my fingers crossed! they have no problem doing any of those things for me

 

Looks like I also have a bed plate leak in my '05 6.0L Excursion. What's recommended for me to do while it's torn apart? I'd like to take advantage of the tech's time instead of paying through the nose later. Any advice is appreciated...

 

i have a small oil leak coming down right behind the oil pan and in front of the belhousing. a small drop of oil is usually present on the bottom of the belhousing. i'm not sure where its actually coming from but i did try to clean everything so i can get a better idea. could this be the bed plate?

 

Had oil around the bell housing, around the oil pan and at the front side where an large allen bolt is right behind the belt. Thats where most of the oil was. Dealer said its the bed plate. So they have to pull the engine out. Truck has 58,000 on it so its still covered under Fords warranty. I have a 7 year/100,000 mile warranty through CNA.

The dealer recommends, I PAY FOR , ARP studs, head gasket, resurface heads and bulletproof egr while they have the engine out for the bed plate leak fix which will cost me around $2000.00

Is any of this additional stuff normally covered under warranty under these circumstances?

If not, is this the time for me to do this stuff?

Is there anything else i should have them do while the engine is pulled?

 

yes, do that stuff now.

 

That depends on what year model your engine is.

At a minimum I would do the oil cooler rebuild while it is apart.

Also think about stc fitting in the HPOP if that applies to your year model.

Updated turbo feed and return lines

cleaning the turbo

water pump?

fuel pressure regulator blue spring

 

thanks for the replies

its an 07' F250. The C.A.C. tube and connections were recently replaced under warranty as they were leaking too.

i am also replacing the oil cooler with another OEM as recommended by them. i believe they said they were going to run some kind of test on the turbo also and replace what they can if necessary.

Is the HPOP fitting something that i should have them do?

how about an EGR valve? i dont recall if they mentioned it.

I dont want my truck to live in the shop so i may as well do it now while CNA pays for a rental car.