7.3 finally going back together.....
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: New England
7.3 finally going back together.....
I am getting some rebuilt heads 4 hours from here but I save a ton on shipping. And I am just about ready to go back with all my parts and I wanted to ask a few questions in one place.
1. I bought O-rings and gaskets for oil cooler from Ford. WHats the torque specs for those bolts? Can I use antiseize? Do I use RTV sealant? And please tell me I dont have to jack engine up...
2. How much and what kind of coolant? Should I buy premixed? I am on a private well (much iron in water).
3. I bought a Motorcraft tstat, freaking $25 dollars is this the one to use? Or should it be an International?
4. Should I fill the fuel/water separator with dieselboost before doing first crank?
5. I broke that little rubber hose that goes from back of manifold from that round can to the intake valley pan. WHat the heck is it and what can I use to fix it? My head gasket set came with a small rubber grommet but I dont see what good it will do for me. Any tips here? The one I had was hard as rock and broke off.
Thanks in advance
1. I bought O-rings and gaskets for oil cooler from Ford. WHats the torque specs for those bolts? Can I use antiseize? Do I use RTV sealant? And please tell me I dont have to jack engine up...
2. How much and what kind of coolant? Should I buy premixed? I am on a private well (much iron in water).
3. I bought a Motorcraft tstat, freaking $25 dollars is this the one to use? Or should it be an International?
4. Should I fill the fuel/water separator with dieselboost before doing first crank?
5. I broke that little rubber hose that goes from back of manifold from that round can to the intake valley pan. WHat the heck is it and what can I use to fix it? My head gasket set came with a small rubber grommet but I dont see what good it will do for me. Any tips here? The one I had was hard as rock and broke off.
Thanks in advance
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 6,496
Likes: 94
From: So. Jersey
Glad to hear you found a set of heads.
1. books in the garage cant remember the torque. Yes you can use antiseize. No RTV if anything I use some high temp spray tack, the gasket should have built in orange silicone to promote a seal. And yes you'll need to undo the 2 bolts and jack the motor up to slide the cooler out the bottom towards the rear of the truck.
2. More expensive but you can't go wrong with premix, about 6 gallons my used.
3. pretty sure the motorcraft is international so you should be fine. It's those napa or aftermarket ones to avoid.
4. Either clean fuel or a quality diesel additive such as diesel kleen
5. The can is a crankcase ventilator. The fat oring seal goes on the can to seal to the back of the intake.
hope this helps. You should invest in a good reference manual to supply you with torque specs and proper procedures.
1. books in the garage cant remember the torque. Yes you can use antiseize. No RTV if anything I use some high temp spray tack, the gasket should have built in orange silicone to promote a seal. And yes you'll need to undo the 2 bolts and jack the motor up to slide the cooler out the bottom towards the rear of the truck.
2. More expensive but you can't go wrong with premix, about 6 gallons my used.
3. pretty sure the motorcraft is international so you should be fine. It's those napa or aftermarket ones to avoid.
4. Either clean fuel or a quality diesel additive such as diesel kleen
5. The can is a crankcase ventilator. The fat oring seal goes on the can to seal to the back of the intake.
hope this helps. You should invest in a good reference manual to supply you with torque specs and proper procedures.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 574
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From: New England
just the two bolts on the driver side motor mount? About how much room will I need?
Ok on the oring seal to intake, but the tube broke apart where it seals to the valley pan, what do I need to do about that dealer only part or is there a way to rig one up?
Ok on the oring seal to intake, but the tube broke apart where it seals to the valley pan, what do I need to do about that dealer only part or is there a way to rig one up?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 6,496
Likes: 94
From: So. Jersey
The last one I did in a truck I removed just the 2 smaller bolts on either side of the mount. Then with a bottle jack and a piece of 2x6 wood between the oilpan, I jacked it up about 2-3" off the motor mount. The cooler bolts I accessed through the wheel well.
The piece that broke, was it the rubber hose or the white/yellow plastic piece that is joined to the hose and seals in the grommet in the vallley pan? I don't know of any parts houses that would have that plastic piece, so i'd say International or Ford. Don't see why you can't use something else as long as it seals.
The piece that broke, was it the rubber hose or the white/yellow plastic piece that is joined to the hose and seals in the grommet in the vallley pan? I don't know of any parts houses that would have that plastic piece, so i'd say International or Ford. Don't see why you can't use something else as long as it seals.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 574
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From: New England
Ok thanks I do have the wheel wells removed, but in this 1ton it seems as though the bolts are pretty accessible with a wobble socket and an air ratchet.
The crankcase ventilator to valley pan is where my problem is, can I get those at local chain stores? Its about 3" long tube 1" in diameter and it brok where it meets the valley pan. I could just RTV it back around the seal at the valley pan.
The crankcase ventilator to valley pan is where my problem is, can I get those at local chain stores? Its about 3" long tube 1" in diameter and it brok where it meets the valley pan. I could just RTV it back around the seal at the valley pan.
