I know most of the stuff I need and have most of the major parts. As I put together this 347 with new shortblock, intake, heads, cam I'd like to upgrade/replace some of the smaller parts such as bolts, sensors, and sending units. I need a lil help at on what I actually need. I'm deployed in Iraq and therefore cannot look at my truck for referance, so please have some patience with me.

I'll start with the bolts, I plan on using all ARP replacements:

Camshaft: They're sold as individual units, I'm thinking I need 2. Is this correct?

Harmonic balancer: Also sold as individual units, I have no idea how many I need. Could ya help me out here? Also, they're nearly $20 bucks a pop, what's up with that?

Timing cover/water pump: There are two different sets. One to be used with a cast iron timing cover and WP, the other to be used with an aluminum timing cover. I plan on using the stock Cover and my replacement WP. Is the stock TC cast or aluminum?

Sending units and Gauges:

I'm putting 5 gauges in; Oil pres, water temp, volts, vacuum, and LC-1 A/F ratio.

I want to use new oil pres. and water temp sending units. From what I have found on Summit they are mechanical. Screws with small nipples on them, and the Gauges that I'm using are mechanical anolog types. They come with tubing to go to the mechanical sending units.

Does this mean I can't use my factory dash gauges and the aftermarket ones at the same time, or can I somehow split the reading to use both? If I can, how?

Lastly, pilot bearing:

I was looking at the "Zoom 'Kevlar pilot bushing'" which happens to be solid state. I've never heard of a 'solid state bushing', and I'll be honest the name just speaks out to me. Does anyone have expierience with one of these? Is it acceptable for a weekend mudder and worth the extra $30-$40 over a standard pilot bearing?

P.S.-This is for my '91

 

camshaft: No, theres only one.

Harmonic balancer: theres only one. Its on the front of the crankshaft....and a special tool is required to remove and install it. 20$ is actually cheap for a good harmonic balancer. typically they run $50+

honestly, if you dont know what those two things are, i seriously question your ability to even build the motor you speak of, but i digress.

timing cover: original one equipped on the truck should be aluminum.

the pilot bearing, i really dont know, since i havent seen it. would you happen to have a link to it? you should be fine with a stock one though, what trans do you have?

 

LOL, Honestly I question your ability to read.

 

I am asking how many bolts I need to install these parts. And for the HB, I was asking why the HB bolts cost $20 a piece. No where was there even an implication of 'how many camshafts and HBs do I need'?

Please, edit and remove your insults that violate FTE forum policy. If you have a grievance with me, let me know in a professional manner in a thread. If you do not believe you can be professional, then PM me so the rest of the members do not have to read such rude language.

 

Zoom Kevlar Pilot Bushing

Zf-5 will be replacing the M5OD. same clutch, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder. Just better gears and higher torque rating.

 

check your pm box. pm sent.

 

Honestly.. when I first read your post I thought the same thing.. how can he not know these motors only have 1 camshaft? He's been around here long enough to know that. I don't know if it's just the way your post is worded or if people tend to quickly scan more than read, but I totally missed the main question first time around as well.

Anyway.. about the real questions. Summit sells bolt kits for these motors, but while they give you the more common bolts for the intake and accessories, I don't think they supply the long waterpump bolts and some of the other Ford specific bolts, may have to get those directly from the dealer if you want new, or just clean up the old ones.

There's nothing wrong with mechanical gauges but I don't like mechanical oil pressure gauges, damn little tube you have to fish through the firewall without kinking and somehow prevent it from melting, better to get an electric for this one. Vacuum gauge isn't so bad at least it doesn't have to come from under the motor, you can tap into a vacuum line anywhere. You can also use aftermarket gauges and keep the stock gauge cluster you'll just have to add more sensors for the aftermarket gauges somewhere else. For the oil presure for example install an extension in the block and T two sensors on the end, one for the dash and the other for the aftermarket gauge.

A bushing by definition is solid state since it has no moving parts. A bearing usually does.. ball or roller bearings and an inner and outer race. One exception is engine crank bearings but they are sorta mislabeled because technically they are bushings. So the use of bushings isn't new and they can perform well and have a long life, got no experience with those kevlar things though they do sound impressive.

 

Rude comments and name-calling deleted. Let's not see that kind of crap on here again, hmmm?

Personally, I thought it was pretty clear that he was asking about the ARP fasteners and how many needed for each part mentioned, but I tend to look at posts fairly carefully so that I'm certain of the author's meaning.

I don't think I'd bother with overpriced ARP fasteners for anything except heads, mains and rods. You don't need them for the cam, timing cover and so on, stock bolts are fine there as long as they're in good shape. It seems to me that it's more marketing hype than anything to install them in every bolt hole in the engine just so you can say that your whole engine is assembled with ARP fasteners. Hell, if I'm going to do that, they better give me a kickback for the advertising!

And as for the Kevlar bushing, that seems a bit overpriced as well. Oil-impregnated bronze bushing do all that the Kevlar bushing claims to do, for a couple of bucks instead of almost 50!

 

Ummm I'll try to be precise in my terminology due to the tone of this thread.

The thrust plate which retains the camshaft is attached with two machine screws. I believe they are 1/4" NC flat head. Early engines used clutch drive (butterfly shaped recess) screws.

The harmonic balancer is held on to the crankshaft by one rather large fine thread hex head cap screw, which is why it's expensive. Perhaps you were thinking of the crankshaft pulley, which is held on to the damper by three hex head cap screws on engines installed in 1969 and earlier model year vehicles, or four screws on later ones.

 

I think the harmonic balancer bolt isn't a bad idea at all. As for the rest, you are right on.BTW- I caught the question correctly from the jump. Beanscoot got it right, and these are probably the fasteners that are causing the confusion.

 

No, the bolt for the balancer isn't a bad idea...but they don't use crap for the stock bolt there either and it's not really a trouble spot. I've personally never broken one and I raced a 302 in circle track, where the RPMs were constantly up to 7200 and back down, back and forth all evening...the stock bolt never gave me a lick of trouble. He expressed some concern about paying 20 bucks for a single bolt, so I'd probably give that one a miss as well, unless it's worth it to him to have a trick-looking 12-point ARP bolt there (where you can almost never see it anyway!)

 

I have. On a 302 in an '80 F150 that never saw more than 4500 rpm, (if that much). Probably a freak deal for sure, and the balancer was loose on the shaft, I don't know if from wobbling with no bolt or it was that way before and is what caused the bolt to break.
My wife's car (Toyota) lost the harmonic balancer, (can't remember if the bolt broke or came loose) and those balancers just slide on and off, so there might be something to the balancer being sloppy on the shaft.
I guess that's why I'm a little gun-shy when it comes to balancer bolts.

 

It's my first engine build and I felt like replacing some of the 18-19 year old bolts. Though I did replace my water pump last fall and all of those bolts were fine, just took a lil PB blaster and a breaker bar to get them loose. I'm sure the others will be fine. But ya know when you take something apart and put it back together, then you end up with an extra screw or two at the end..... I do that sometimes.

I'll go with the new Head fastners, and a HB 'bolt'. I figured the cam had 2 bolts on the retaining plate as stated, just wasn't positive. I had no idea as to how many attach the HB to the crank. I might stick with a normal $10 dollar pilot 'roller' bearing, they've always seemed to work fine before. Sometimes it's a pain pounding it in place without knocking the bearings loose.

Thanks for all the advice and clarifications guys.

I could use some more clairifications here, especially in the block extension... mounted pictures help. Do they sell extensions and T's for sensors? If that's gonna be a pain, I don't think I'll shed any tears if the stock instrument cluster doesn't work.

Also, are the stock oil pres./water temp sending units on a '91 electric or mechanical? I assumed they were mechanical for some reason.

 

"I might stick with a normal $10 dollar pilot 'roller' bearing, they've always seemed to work fine before. Sometimes it's a pain pounding it in place without knocking the bearings loose."

I believe the pilot bearing referred to in Tiger Dan's post was the one piece bronze type.

 

Yep, I was just expressing that I mine as well stick with the stock set-up.