My 94 Front/Rear Air unit leaked out my AC in a couple of days the last time I had it serviced (2/3 years ago). Die was ran but never seen by the light -hummm? Question-with the concern being not able to find my "leak" I want to bypass the rear system. The leak was never found but I suspected the long tubes underneath going to the rear unit. Can I simply just buy the 2 tubed dryer for a front unit instead of the 3 tube front/back unit?
I'm thinking it would be simpler since I'm not wanting air in the back anymore or ever for that matter. Any inputs would be appreciated.
Wondering if anyone has done this.
Also---when I go to have it serviced, I need to have the system blown out, (lines to the dryer, comp, condenser and orifice tube) unhooked RIGHT? Just wondering. I'm going to ask this radiator shop that services AC systems what their plan of attack is.--Thanks Boz

 

You might also need a set of refrigerant lines for the front-only system. I seem to recall that the return lines come into a Y combiner before it goes back into the compressor. I'm not near my van, so I can't see right now, so I could be thinking of another set of lines, but you should check yours to be sure.

 

I have a rebuilt compressor. To honor the warranty I have to add prag oil to it. The instructions say half of a 7 oz bottle to the suction side. THIS IS MY DILEMMA.

Looking down at an installed compressor from front to back---WHICH IS THE SUCTION SIDE?

This is the only side I'm supposed to put the oil in.

Any idea's?

Please answer if you know--I'm stuck and working on it now.

 

First off -a thousand apologizes for bringing a Ford Taurus mini van (wife's van) question into our beloved TRUCK VAN forum I have a rebuilt compressor to install. To honor the warranty I have to add PAG 46 oil into it. The instructions say half of a 7 oz bottle to the suction side. THIS IS MY DILEMMA.

Looking down at an installed compressor from front to back---WHICH IS THE SUCTION SIDE? There is a small bolt (just like ours) that goes through the middle of the connecting block. From front to back (electrical connector on top) one supply tube hole is right at 12 O'clock position and the other more to the right side at about 2 O'clock pos.

Any idea's on the suction side?

Please answer if you know--I'm stuck and working on it now.

The instructions for the "Factory Air" compressor says, "To assure compressor lubrication, install half the required system oil in the suction side. This may require turning the compressor shaft as the oil is installed. The remaining amount of required system oil should be installed in the accumulator or low side of the system.

Advance Auto store computer says 7 oz and then instruction sheet says to put half that (3.5 oz) in suction side.---Thanks a bunch Boz

 

If you follow the line that goes from the compressor to the condensor in front of the radiator, that's the high pressure, or output, side. The other one would be the suction, or input, or return, side.

 

Thank Q XLT

 

well, I found out something that will benefit EVERYONE when it comes to WHICH HOLE TO PUT THE OIL INTO. The answer is:

First turn the pulley on the compressor the same direction the belt would move it in. Then-simply hold a finger close to the hole. If it tries to sucks your digit into the hole-YOU'VE DISCOVERED THE SUCTION PORT. Then simply pour the recommended amount of PAG oil in. My wife's Wind-took 3.5 oz.--Boz

 

I read the same instructions. Isn't the suction side the low side so you would put in the same hole. Here's my problem. 93 e150 with rear air. Pulley went out so replacing compressor and accummulator and orifice. Not flushing. How much oil do I put in compressor. Some say 4 oz. in low side of compressor and none in accum. that the oil will get there eventually. Some say put 1/2 in both. Really confusing.

 

I asked the same thing-other than us having 2 different vehicles-systems are usually about the same thing-give or take a small margin. B-4 I serviced my compressor I found that anything from a margin of 2 to 3 and a half ounces would be fine. The trick is then to rotate the clutch about 12 turns to lubricate the compressor pistons. Priming it will grease it up and prolong the life. Oil that is charged through compressed air will eventually feed thru your system like you stated-but-PAG oil is poured in a little a a time. I recommend buying a cheapo measuring cup.--boz

 

I'm going to put in 4 oz in low side of compressor, rotate it and let it go. I don't know why they say put some in accummulator. My research indicates to use Ester oil which is supposed to work better than PAG in converted systems. Should I put in an extra oz for the accummulator? Really hard to find infor. on quantity when not flushing system.

Thanks for responding

 

sdellinger,

was the system converted previously to r134a or are you now converting to r134a?

if you are converting now, system has be be flushed by approved a/c methods for long life of the comp. there will be remnants of old r12 and old lube in system.

if previously converted, there is still some lube in the hoses, mufflers, evap. and condenser. 4 oz add. will be enough.

http://www.id-usa.com/how_to_faqs_retrofitting.asp#9

8. Why does Interdynamics use Ester Oil instead of PAG Oil?

While both lubricants are used with R-134a, Ester is believed to be better for Retrofit systems because it is compatible with the residual mineral oil left after evacuating a R-12 system.
In addition, Ester oil is a preferred top-off oil because it is compatible with ALL PAG Oils and is much less hygroscopic, which means that it does absorb as much water from the atmosphere as PAG Oils do. This moisture can create problems in a vehicle's A/C system.

Ester is also a truly Universal lubricant which has a Single Viscosity. PAG Oils come in a variety of viscosities which must be matched to the vehicle. GM vehicles use a high viscosity (150) PAG Oil, and non-GM vehicles use a low viscosity (46) PAG Oil. You cannot use a 100 viscosity PAG Oil as a "1 size fits all" universal lubricant. Ester Oil, however, is truly universal and will lubricate properly regardless of viscosity.

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9. Do I need to remove the oil that's in the system? Is the old oil compatible with the new oil?

No. The residual mineral oil left behind after you evacuate a R-12 system will not mix with the new R-134a refrigerant. That is why we add Ester Oil, because it will mix with R-134a, lubricate the system components and is compatible with the residual Mineral oil.

The mineral oil just collects in a low place in the system (such as the accumulator), where it stays, until it is removed at some later date during future maintenance or repair. The mineral oil does no good, but it does no harm either. It's just there.
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PAG46 is also perfectly ok to use in converted Ford systems unless the compressor directions call for other spec'd lube

see
http://www.technicalchemical.com/tec...cantguide4.pdf

the most important part is complete vacuum evacuation, removing all the air and water moisture possible. best done by a shop with commercial equipment. no use buying another comp. in a year when this one dies from water corrosion