Hey guys,

Now I know about the regular door lock issues where they just quit working but now mine has just went plain odd on somedays. The other day I went to town and went to lock the door clicked my FOB and they locked then my wife forgot her purse so I went to unlock it, back doors wouldn't unlock. Locked and unlocked them then the front wouldn't do anything but jiggle. Waited a minute and clicked they started working again, then I got to messing with it and they would work at random

That was two weeks ago and it hasn't happened again so far I was just wondering if anyone else had these issues?

 

Just a thought, mine acted wierd before but when I hit my fob to lock sound like buzz, like the motor went zzzzzz, like it skipped. Check out your child proof switches inside the door jam in the back, just a thought, good luck...

 

I have had more trouble out of the back, but it also did it when I hit the switch on the door panel and still does it on the front for some odd reason.

 

The only problem I had with the back doors is my sons grabbing the door handles at the same time i,m hitting the fob and they woudn't open but thats about it, just a minor infraction. Good luck JD, hope you figure it out..

 

When is the last time you changed the battery. Sometimes keyfobs will do weird things when the battery is about dead. Just a thought

 

Toms got a good point, id try that also.

 

Yes, but if the vehicle can start then the locks have enough juice to function.
I know my locks are working weird too but nothing to unexpected. I believe my linkages are dirty and just need to be cleaned. When I hit the L my passenger side will lock but driver's side will do nothing. I hit the U and the passenger side might unlock, it might try to unlock and might unlock after a couple tries and typically it'll just twitch. The driver's side will do nothing.
As soon as I get around to it I plan on taking the door covers off, pulling the servos and cleaning all the linkages to try and get it all to work again.
I have to suspect if your locks are acting so weird that your lock switches may need to be cleaned or replaced as well but i would start with cleaning the internal linkages and make sure your servos still work correctly.

 

This was borrowed from powerstroke dot org.......................

WARNING: The following is long winded, but if you want your PDL's to work again WITHOUT spending any $$ read on.

I finally got tired of my non-working PDL's and decided to tear into my truck and find/fix the problem. There has been many discussions about possible issues and I have concluded that the majority of us are seeing actuator motor problems and not relays, switches etc. Ill start by saying the problem I have had is that when I hit the switch, the locks attempt to move and after repeated attempts, the signal appears to get weaker and weaker until nothing....I assumed relay or switch.....NOT THE CASE!

First I started by testing the signal at the harness plug to the actuator. Perfect. No issues here. Next I completely removed the actuator/lock mechanism and bench tested them with 12V..Here lies the problem. The actuator acted the same as when in the truck. First I did a thorough cleaning of all of the mechanism so it works freely and still had the same results. Here's where it gets tricky. These things are built so that they are NOT serviceable. I had already decided that they were going to need to be replaced, so I decided to break them open for closer inspection. It comes apart relatively easily, but appears that It cannot be put back together once apart. I drilled out two small rivets and then pried the case apart. As you pry the case apart you'll notice these small little plastic rods protrude up through the case cover. These rods are then "mushroomed" with heat through the upper case and then sealed with some kind of silicone. When you pry apart the case the "mushroom" head breaks off and the rod remains. You can dig out the silicone and mushroom head with a pick. It comes out very easy. Inside you will find a very small motor and some gear mechanism. I believed the problem at first to be worn brushes or dirty commutator contacts in the motor itself. You'll have to bend two little metal tabs out and pull off the brush housing on the back of the motor. I cleaned the gunk off the brushes and took 1500 grit to the commutator contacts and reassembled the motor. The motor worked, but if you applied even a slight amount of resistance on the armature, it would stop the motor. It should have been WAY stronger than this. I was stumped until I looked a little closer at the inside of the plastic brush housing. Inside you'll find a small, thin rectangular (thermal resistor relay, dodad, thingamabob??) pardon my ignorance, but I'm not sure what to call it. All I know is that this little part is what keeps you from burning up the motor, should you continue to press the switch once the lock has been actuated. It appears that this thing wears out over time and will not allow enough signal to get through to the motor to make it work. THE FIX . I am cheap. Since I had done so much work up to this point, I decided that I would go a little further and try to make it work without spending the $$. I have better things to spend my money on than actuators. I took a small piece of aluminum foil and wrapped the "thing" voila! Perfectly working motor! I sat there and operated the thing for 10 minutes including one or two times stopping the armature and holding down the switch to see what would happen. The motor builds heat, but not much. Not enough to worry about. Now that I had a good working motor I decided I would try and reassemble the unit. The problem is you cannot glue the unit together as there is a rubber gasket around the perimeter of the case and if you tried to glue the rods into the case, you would not have enough pressure on the two halves of the case to keep the gears in place (these things actually apply a great deal of torque on the case) What I decided to do is completely break off the plastic rods flush with the bottom side of the case and then drill out the bottom case and screw it together. This worked perfectly. You'll need screws that are the same diameter as the holes in the top of the case to keep it from "wandering". Also the screws should not protrude through the back of the unit as some of the mechanism has some pretty close tolerances and a screw sticking through the back would not allow some of the mechanism to work (this can be remedied with a decent set of wire dikes or a hacksaw). I know all of this is hard to picture, but if you do decide to try this fix, you'll see what I am describing here. The locks are back in and working flawlessly.

 

I also found https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...s-fixed-2.html