Getting ready to insulate the interior of my 53 before the A/C installation.
For those who have used Dyna-Mat or the cheaper version of it that Mid-Fifty sells,(this is the one I bought) how well does it stick to the interior paint? Should the surface be glossy or sanded? I used the cheaper stuff in the interior of my Mack, which is just primed, and it didn't seem to stick real well.
I plan to line the whole interior with sound deadener and then add a layer of insulation on the roof, firewall and floor. Does this sound like a good idea?
Thanks for any advice, Jeff

 

Sound deadener first, then insulation, then jute, then carpet/whatever.

I used heavy duty RattleTrap, 80mil, like this from EBAY
100^ 80 Mil Rattle Trap FatMat Deadener+ Dynamat Roller:eBay Motors (item 370212660752 end time Jun-17-09 20:15:16 PDT)

and it stuck to everything.

I used this heat insulation on top

Automotive Heat Sound Insulation Auto Car Boat RV Quiet:eBay Motors (item 230344277831 end time Jun-19-09 08:07:50 PDT)

Sam

 

Maybe some rattle can adhesive will help?

 

Good links...
So, you still need to put heat insulation on top of the deadener? I did not know that. I thought the dynamat stuff did both? Good to know.

 

I used B-Quiet (did a Google search for Dynamat and found B-Quiet) sound deadener which stuck to anything and everything I out it on. Over that I put 3/8" insulation with rattle can adhesive. To make a long story short I found out that you should use the 3M high bond strength adhesive. Expensive but worth doing it only once. Results were great.

T900

 

Yes, the deadener does some limited amount of heat insulation, but its primary job is to stop vibration harmonics. it is not enough of a heat barrier for comfort.

Sam

 

Sam,
Did you do all surfaces the same way? i.e. doors and floor included?

 

the doors only have the deadener.. the insulation would hold water no mater what you do..

Sam