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A quick question about interior insulation????

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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 11:01 AM
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A quick question about interior insulation????

Getting ready to insulate the interior of my 53 before the A/C installation.
For those who have used Dyna-Mat or the cheaper version of it that Mid-Fifty sells,(this is the one I bought) how well does it stick to the interior paint? Should the surface be glossy or sanded? I used the cheaper stuff in the interior of my Mack, which is just primed, and it didn't seem to stick real well.
I plan to line the whole interior with sound deadener and then add a layer of insulation on the roof, firewall and floor. Does this sound like a good idea?
Thanks for any advice, Jeff
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 01:03 PM
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Sound deadener first, then insulation, then jute, then carpet/whatever.

I used heavy duty RattleTrap, 80mil, like this from EBAY
100^ 80 Mil Rattle Trap FatMat Deadener+ Dynamat Roller:eBay Motors (item 370212660752 end time Jun-17-09 20:15:16 PDT)

and it stuck to everything.

I used this heat insulation on top

Automotive Heat Sound Insulation Auto Car Boat RV Quiet:eBay Motors (item 230344277831 end time Jun-19-09 08:07:50 PDT)

Sam
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 01:30 PM
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Maybe some rattle can adhesive will help?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by sdetweil
Sound deadener first, then insulation, then jute, then carpet/whatever.

I used heavy duty RattleTrap, 80mil, like this from EBAY
100^ 80 Mil Rattle Trap FatMat Deadener+ Dynamat Roller:eBay Motors (item 370212660752 end time Jun-17-09 20:15:16 PDT)

and it stuck to everything.

I used this heat insulation on top

Automotive Heat Sound Insulation Auto Car Boat RV Quiet:eBay Motors (item 230344277831 end time Jun-19-09 08:07:50 PDT)

Sam

Good links...
So, you still need to put heat insulation on top of the deadener? I did not know that. I thought the dynamat stuff did both? Good to know.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2009 | 11:57 PM
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I used B-Quiet (did a Google search for Dynamat and found B-Quiet) sound deadener which stuck to anything and everything I out it on. Over that I put 3/8" insulation with rattle can adhesive. To make a long story short I found out that you should use the 3M high bond strength adhesive. Expensive but worth doing it only once. Results were great.

T900
 
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Huntfamily53
Good links...
So, you still need to put heat insulation on top of the deadener? I did not know that. I thought the dynamat stuff did both? Good to know.
Yes, the deadener does some limited amount of heat insulation, but its primary job is to stop vibration harmonics. it is not enough of a heat barrier for comfort.

Sam
 
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 07:02 AM
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Sam,
Did you do all surfaces the same way? i.e. doors and floor included?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 49willard
Sam,
Did you do all surfaces the same way? i.e. doors and floor included?
the doors only have the deadener.. the insulation would hold water no mater what you do..

Sam
 
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