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12v heat element

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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 12:27 PM
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12v heat element

i've been searching the web for a 12v heating element. i'm gonna try the tom ogle gas vaporizer on my truck, and i dont want to use the exhaust for heat. now, i dont want to hear about how ppl think this is a scam or whatever, b/c this is an experiment, and i dont want to hear ppl tell me i'm just wasting my time when theyve never tried it themselves.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 07:38 PM
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What's your question?
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by fmc400
What's your question?
do u kno where i can find a cheap 12v heating element
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:36 PM
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How hot do you have to get this element? If I understand this theory correctly, the fuel must become a vapor. That being said, you will have to keep the heating element submerged or it will burn up and no longer be effective.
Camping stores and truck stops have small submersable heaters for beverages, and brewing coffee. These can get pretty hot, but many will have to be constantly submerged in order to stay alive.
This is true for just about any submersable heat device. They are dependant upon the surrounding liquid to prevent overheating. Some have thermal switches and may shut off, which will turn your vapor into liquid again.

Difficult to find a 12VDC element that can meet this demand. Higher wattage will mean a greater demand on the electricl system which in turn requires more power to generate enough electricity,,,,,,,,,,ahhhh, you will figure it out. Just beware of the Kaboon factor. Designing some sort of double contanment system would be mandatory, but then you lose thermal efficiencies.
Just dont blow yourself up.

Im reasonably familiar with this fuel saving technique, and have performed some experiments, so good luck.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:43 PM
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If you search these forums for "vapor lock" you will see that folks go to some pretty extreme lengths to prevent heating the fuel. A properly tuned carburetor will get you maximum fuel economy, but vaporizing the fuel will leave you sitting on the side of the road.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by justforkicks
do u kno where i can find a cheap 12v heating element
If I understand this correctly, you're asking to place an inductive, high-current load near a fuel source. If the circuit were to break anywhere near the fuel source, the open-circuit would act just like a spark plug.

Based on your explanation of the situation and the demands you're trying to meet, what you're trying is not safe. That's not the answer you're looking for, but I'm not giving technical advice toward something that I see as dangerous.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 01:28 PM
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the idea was to take a carb, cut the venturies off and put lines coming off the jets, and wrap the lines w/the heating element... the lines lead to the intake, which has NO carb, just the throttle flaps. if u can picture this, then you can get kindof an idea of what i'm trying...
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 04:13 PM
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How would you regulate the flow of the fuel? A carb stores fuel in the bowl and the engine vacuum draws fuel through the venturi.
Your fuel vapor will have to be pressurized with some sort of regulation device, and this vapor itself will contain additional oxygen.
This will be an uncontrolable mixture, and if you could actually get this into each cylinder to the point where combustion can occur this unregulated amount would cause the engine to run out of control.
The throttle blades would only be a regulation device for air, and not for the entire mixture.
In the original design, the tanks contained vapor and these provided the pressure which was regulated to supply the vapor through a series of hoses. Each providing a greater volume of fuel and air. This was equal to opening the throttle blades on a carb.
The original design eliminated the carb all together.

There is much speculation and debate as to whether the difference between atomization and vaporization is being confused in this theory, and how an internal combustion engine can operate on vaporized fuel. This contains a bunch of air, and this added oxygen will require more fuel to revent detonation or a lean burn down.
While it can work, the properties of regular gas as a fuel is neither safe nor does it permit the ability to mix efficiently enough to support the "Tom Ogle" 200 miles on 2 gals claim.

I dig the idea, and have seen this come up now and again. Hope to see what you can accomplish with this...............
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 04:17 PM
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i'll draw a diagram to show u what i mean
 
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 05:58 PM
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how do i get a pic i made on paint on here?!
 
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 06:03 PM
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i did run the truck 2day w/o heat going to the gas. the vapors that the gas gave off was able to run the truck for a while, but it ran like crap b/c the hose i used for the intake was WAAAAYYY too small (about an 1.25") once it actually revved up, it imploded the 5 gal. pail i had holding the gas...
heres the vid.
YouTube - My gas bubbler
 
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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Looking at your video, leaves me wondering why you were not running the camera when you ran the truck.
regardless, you attached a hose to the top of a carb, and then sealed the other end. An internal combustion engine is not much more than an air pump. You are pumping air through the engine. It is regulated by the mixer (carb) and mixes the proper amount of fuel and air to maintain a running engine.
Ok, all that being said, your set-up is going to fail, you have completely blocked off the air supply that is required for an internal combustion engine to function. The fuel line is still connected to the carb, so unless the supply line was entirely evacuated, this carb still had fuel in it. I can be sure that the bowl still had fuel, and thats why the engine ran. It was not running on the vapors of your mixture, but ran on the residual fuel still in the carb, and the limited air supply. Once the air supply was depleted, the three essential elements for combustion could not occur and the engine stopped running. The imploded bucket supports the theory that the thing just ran out of air, and while it was struggling to draw more air, it could not, and simply sucked the bucket to the point of failure.
Your engine needs oxygen in order to combust, and if you remove it, this is the result.

Imagine a scuba diver. Your bucket represents the tank that the diver needs to breathe. The real exception here is that you contaminated and limited the air supply. Once depleted, the thing stopped running.
If you had a larger bucket, it would have run longer with the same results in the end.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 75F350
Looking at your video, leaves me wondering why you were not running the camera when you ran the truck.
regardless, you attached a hose to the top of a carb, and then sealed the other end. An internal combustion engine is not much more than an air pump. You are pumping air through the engine. It is regulated by the mixer (carb) and mixes the proper amount of fuel and air to maintain a running engine.
Ok, all that being said, your set-up is going to fail, you have completely blocked off the air supply that is required for an internal combustion engine to function. The fuel line is still connected to the carb, so unless the supply line was entirely evacuated, this carb still had fuel in it. I can be sure that the bowl still had fuel, and thats why the engine ran. It was not running on the vapors of your mixture, but ran on the residual fuel still in the carb, and the limited air supply. Once the air supply was depleted, the three essential elements for combustion could not occur and the engine stopped running. The imploded bucket supports the theory that the thing just ran out of air, and while it was struggling to draw more air, it could not, and simply sucked the bucket to the point of failure.
Your engine needs oxygen in order to combust, and if you remove it, this is the result.

Imagine a scuba diver. Your bucket represents the tank that the diver needs to breathe. The real exception here is that you contaminated and limited the air supply. Once depleted, the thing stopped running.
If you had a larger bucket, it would have run longer with the same results in the end.
i ran the truck w/the line disconnected between the tank and pump and ran it until it started no more. the thing ran for around a minute b4 the pail imploded. i went, got another pail, got more gas, and tried it again and it worked again w/the same performance for the same amount of time. the breather hose agitated the gas and supplied air for the engine (not much, i know, but it did) which helped in making more vapor. this isnt going to be the system put on my truck... i was just showing that it CAN indeed be run off vapor.

the system i'm gonna be trying is going to be more carb based than this. i'm not going for the complete 'tom ogle' plan, just the concept.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 08:06 PM
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i put little holes in the top of the bucket this time and it ran good (rich, but good) and it idled too i'll post a vid soon, but i just dont got time today.
the bucket was ice cold after it ran for a while, too, so im gonna need to add heat to the mix.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 07:57 PM
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heres the vid of the truck running w/it. this time, i poked holes into the top of the bucket for a little more air, b/c the truck wasn't running w/o them, and when it had them, it ran rich.

YouTube - another gas bubbler

and after i ran the truck for a while, the bucket became ice cold.
 
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