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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 10:59 AM
  #31  
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triskit16
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From: VA
Originally Posted by 74baja
These are all good suggestions. I think the best/safest way to check if hubs are locked is to grab behind the wheel at the u-joint on the end of the axle, and try to turn it by hand. If it turns, they're free. If it doesn't, they're locked.
Originally Posted by kittyhawksurf
I actually get it. In short, locking the hubs will engage the front drive shaft even in 2wd. Got it ExV10. Thanks.

The major issue now is behind the hubs, the connection between the u-joint and the back of the wheel/hub is VERY loose on one side? When I tried to turn the u-joint by hand the joint just wobbled... oh boy.

I would suspect that is the real problem with the 4wd. The u-joint somehow came disonnected from the backside of the driverside wheel/hub.

Any suggestions?
I have a video somewhere that shows me moving my u joints up and down almost freely. I will try to post a link to that when I find it. My problem was my knuckle seal. It was totally destroyed and wouldnt allow the ESOF to work but it would still work when I turned the dial to manually lock the hub. I would just let the shop look it over an pay them for the diagnostic work. Anything on those hubs, even replacing the knuckle seal can be done in about 3 hours or less and a little bit of research and a few parts. Hopefully its something "simple" like just a hub problem and not the differential or axles themselves.

Edit:
In the video notice the axleshaft moving in the center of the hub. Im by no means a mechanic but I did this job with the help of one other person in practically no time. I replaced all the ESOF seals on that hub.
http://s378.photobucket.com/albums/o...t=100_0294.flv


On a side note I know exactly where Maple is from last weeks trip down to the OBX. Does someone man that post office yall have at all times? I thought my hometown had a small post office!
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 11:09 AM
  #32  
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That sounds exactly like what is going on. I can't acess the video at work, but I can't wait to check it out. I seems that I don't need the shop to diagnos the problem, because the PEOPLE ON THIS FORM ARE FREAKIN AWESOM.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 11:12 AM
  #33  
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From: VA
I'm actually coming back down your way Saturday. If youre still having problems I can see if I can talk my buddy into stopping by and giving it a look. I dont know how far off 168/158 or whatever that is that goes right by the post office but I wouldnt mind if you havent figured it out by then.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 02:55 PM
  #34  
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When you say the axle has pulled out; that sounds like the 3 washers are gone or the snap ring came off behind them (on the outer side).
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 04:05 PM
  #35  
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I would check Guzzles page for pics and instructions (very easy) to pull that autohub off and inspect it yourself. Just let us know whats going on in there and we can help a lil more!
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 04:56 AM
  #36  
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WOW DUDE! Triskit16-That is exactly whats going on with my axle, knuckle, u-joint, hub whatever!!!!!! The video confirmed it. It is supposed to cost $1100-$1200 to fix.

I took it in to the shop and they said the entire hub needs to be replaced. They also said when they tear it appart there is a very good chance that the inner and outer axle will need to be replaced, because when the hub goes bad it tends to create some kind of groove in the axle...?

Anyways, I didn't realize how cool the people on this forum are. Offerring to stop by and take a peek on your way down! You gotta be kidding me. That is so freakin awesome. I know it wasn't a comitment, but the thought alone was just killer.

I live 1 mile off of 158. 1 mile from the Maple post office.

I have already given Island Offroad the go ahead to fix the truck, because I am just ready to get it on the beach this weekend. Just want to post the prices so you guys can let me know what you think.

Hub replacement is $400 part. (They said something about the models made after 1999 are made with the entire hub being one piece.)
Inner and Outer Axle - $400-$500 part.
$300 labor.

What do yall think about those prices?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:38 AM
  #37  
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Thats a better quote on that axle shaft than Ive seen before. I dont think the axle has anything wrong with it personally. My hub was pretty torn up and it was just fine. I think the needle bearing inside the hub would have to go dry to really mess up your axle. The needle bearing isnt the "main" bearing that normally goes bad. I just dont think the 4-500 for that is necessary. I had taken mine somewhere to get fixed and they forgot 1 o-ring, installed a thrust washer backwards, and it basically ruined everything in my hub. Thats why I do this myself now! I wouldnt know much about the prices other than the prices of the seals, the hub, and a few tools and such to complete this. If you did it yourself you would be spending right around 500 in parts if the axle shafts arent ruined. Takes about 3 hours or so.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:00 AM
  #38  
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I was talking to my neighbor who worked at the ford plant in VA for many years and he said that he didn't think the axle would need to be done either. I guess I just need to put some faith in the guys here at Island Offroad. They all seem really cool, and they have been really patient with my excessive questioning. I will just keep my fingers crossed.

I hope to run down to Oregon Inlet Sat. Let me know if you head that way, and I can try to keep and eye out for ya.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:15 AM
  #39  
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I drove last week! My buddy is driving this time down so we wont be goin down to the inlet. Dont think a Mazda 6 could make it! I will be stayin at MP 9 for the whole week. I just hope there arent too many high schoolers out there yet!

Just make sure you set those hubs on auto and check the ESOF before you even leave their parking lot. If they charge you for the axle shaft make sure you see the old one too. Thats a lot of money and is a shot in the gut unless youve recently won the lottery! haha
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:28 AM
  #40  
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From: Maple- NE corner of NC
Ahhh, it's nice to vacation for a week. I just take days here and there since I am here already. It's been a while since I put a wholw dag on week together. There are definately a heck of a lot of people here right now.

I am getting him to go ahead and put in Warn hubs, and I am thinking they don't have auto? Just manual maybe?

What do you mean "check the ESOF?" You think I need to actually turn the switch and make sure it engages?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #41  
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We try to go for a week a year. Bunch of old high school buddies and a few beverages....good times!

Well I shouldve turned my switch on my ESOF when I had my hub replaced years ago but I didnt know what I know now. If youre getting Warns put in just make sure they plug those vacuum lines well. I dont know what it would affect in a gasser but I know in a diesel the a/c vents would default to defrost with a vacuum leak. You will still have to use your ESOF switch inside to engage the transfer case but you wont have the issues/maintenance with the hubs anymore. I would still check everything before I left just so you wont have to come back!
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:48 AM
  #42  
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Warn hubs have to be turned manually at the wheel. ESOF is; electronic shift on fly. (inside switch). Wheel hubs are less aftermarket on Ebay. The only axle you could need is the stub shaft in the wheel and it won't go bad unless the bearings are really bad. Tell them you want to see the old stub shaft or even better yet; do it yourself. It might just need a greasing or a $10 needle bearing, or just those 3 washers behind the snap ring (when you take the outer hub off you will see it); 5 minutes to take the outer hub off.. Did you jack it up and shake the wheel?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:01 AM
  #43  
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I didn't jack it up and shake the wheel. Sorry, but when I watched triskit's video, it was exactly the same problem as mine. I am trying to get it done by this weekend, so I couldn't do much myself.

I am skeptical about those axles as well. thanks.

triskit, I read that about the vacume house too. The defrost thing. I guess we will see.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:31 AM
  #44  
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Yea. Tristan is discussing the same sort of thing I was trying to use to diagnose an issue on Page 1. If you weren't pulling vacuum to engage your auto hubs it would have the same effect as having the hoses disconnected like the Warns will have.

Personally I love my manual T-case and manual hubs. No issues with it. Simper is better and manual is MUCH simpler. It's less convenient, but a lot simpler.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:49 AM
  #45  
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I agree, Pete. Its definitely a lot more simple to have the manual stuff. I have the ESOF and have only had one problem in nearly 10 years. If you use it, understand how it works, maintain it, and have the time to fix/maintain it, then its worth it! I used to not have the time or the knowledge, but that all changed!

Only thing that sucks for me down in the OBX is that by the time I let all the air outta my tires I might as well had manual hubs since Im out there for 15 minutes airing out!
 
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