How do u do a brake fluid flush?
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New User
Joined: May 2009
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From: Nice green place in OR
How do u do a brake fluid flush?
Hi all, I'm a little unsure what would be the proper procedure for doing this. I'm changing the pads today and wanted to do a fluid renewal since it has not been done since I've owned the truck (5yrs). I know from what I've seen on here that this is way over do especially because the v10 is on 40inch tires. also are there any special tools I may need for this job? the book does not mention any of this.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 40
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From: Australia
OK, I am not aure if there is anything specifically differant with your vehicle.
NOTE:
If you are not sure, see a mechanic, as these are your brakes, and getting it wrong could be VERY bad, saying that, if you are handy with the spanners doing it yourself can save you a few bucks.
Preperation.
I find someone that can be a helper for 1/2 an hour.
Ask them to sit in the cab with the seat adjusted to them.
Have a bottle or two of good brake fluid handy that is the same grade as specified for your vehilce (usually DOT 8 is fine) and some clean towel to lay under the brake master cylinder and another to rest the bottle on when not being used.
There are special tools for the next part, but I always make my own from a coke bottle. You will need some clear hose and a drink bottle. The hose needs to fit over the bleed nipple on the brake caliper, this is the odd looking bolt located in the upper most area of each caliper. You just want to cover the "nipple" part and keep the hex part clear so you can put a correct fitting spanner on it.
The task
I use a suction gun to empty the bulk of the fluid form the master cylinder located under the bonnet on the drivers side, a squirt bottle into a container will work if you don't have a gun. Re-fill with clean fluid.
From there, put the clear line on the furtherest callpier form the master cylinder, the off side (from the curb) rear.
With the bottle underneath and the end of the hose in the bottle, as the helper to push down on the pedal and hold,
Open the little bleed valve until the fluid stops flowing under pressure (like a second),
Close the valve,
ask helper too raise the pedal.
You need to be clear with this, I use simple words, like "Down" and "Up", make sure they know to hold it and not to push until you say down, it can end up sucking air in or squirting fluid out!
Keep doing this until you have good clean fluid coming from through the clear hose.
Every two or three cycles, get the helper to check the fluid level in the engine bay, this cannot run out or you will have to start over as it will suck air into the system.
Once the furtherest one is complete, do the other rear and work your way around to the front near side (drivers), when the last is done, the master cylinder should be clean and all the lines and calipers good to go.
As for the pads, ensure NO ONE touches the brake pedal when you have the pads out, this will push the pistons outwards or even pop them form the calliper, very messy and bad for the piston seals!
I hope that helps you, if ther is anything I missed, by all means someone else chip in and cover it!
NOTE:
If you are not sure, see a mechanic, as these are your brakes, and getting it wrong could be VERY bad, saying that, if you are handy with the spanners doing it yourself can save you a few bucks.
Preperation.
I find someone that can be a helper for 1/2 an hour.
Ask them to sit in the cab with the seat adjusted to them.
Have a bottle or two of good brake fluid handy that is the same grade as specified for your vehilce (usually DOT 8 is fine) and some clean towel to lay under the brake master cylinder and another to rest the bottle on when not being used.
There are special tools for the next part, but I always make my own from a coke bottle. You will need some clear hose and a drink bottle. The hose needs to fit over the bleed nipple on the brake caliper, this is the odd looking bolt located in the upper most area of each caliper. You just want to cover the "nipple" part and keep the hex part clear so you can put a correct fitting spanner on it.
The task
I use a suction gun to empty the bulk of the fluid form the master cylinder located under the bonnet on the drivers side, a squirt bottle into a container will work if you don't have a gun. Re-fill with clean fluid.
From there, put the clear line on the furtherest callpier form the master cylinder, the off side (from the curb) rear.
With the bottle underneath and the end of the hose in the bottle, as the helper to push down on the pedal and hold,
Open the little bleed valve until the fluid stops flowing under pressure (like a second),
Close the valve,
ask helper too raise the pedal.
You need to be clear with this, I use simple words, like "Down" and "Up", make sure they know to hold it and not to push until you say down, it can end up sucking air in or squirting fluid out!
Keep doing this until you have good clean fluid coming from through the clear hose.
Every two or three cycles, get the helper to check the fluid level in the engine bay, this cannot run out or you will have to start over as it will suck air into the system.
Once the furtherest one is complete, do the other rear and work your way around to the front near side (drivers), when the last is done, the master cylinder should be clean and all the lines and calipers good to go.
As for the pads, ensure NO ONE touches the brake pedal when you have the pads out, this will push the pistons outwards or even pop them form the calliper, very messy and bad for the piston seals!
I hope that helps you, if ther is anything I missed, by all means someone else chip in and cover it!
Last edited by FMC351; Jun 6, 2009 at 10:36 AM. Reason: To make a few points BOLD!
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Nice green place in OR
OK, I am not aure if there is anything specifically differant with your vehicle.
NOTE:
If you are not sure, see a mechanic, as these are your brakes, and getting it wrong could be VERY bad, saying that, if you are handy with the spanners doing it yourself can save you a few bucks.
Preperation.
I find someone that can be a helper for 1/2 an hour.
Ask them to sit in the cab with the seat adjusted to them.
Have a bottle or two of good brake fluid handy that is the same grade as specified for your vehilce (usually DOT 8 is fine) and some clean towel to lay under the brake master cylinder and another to rest the bottle on when not being used.
There are special tools for the next part, but I always make my own from a coke bottle. You will need some clear hose and a drink bottle. The hose needs to fit over the bleed nipple on the brake caliper, this is the odd looking bolt located in the upper most area of each caliper. You just want to cover the "nipple" part and keep the hex part clear so you can put a correct fitting spanner on it.
The task
I use a suction gun to empty the bulk of the fluid form the master cylinder located under the bonnet on the drivers side, a squirt bottle into a container will work if you don't have a gun. Re-fill with clean fluid.
From there, put the clear line on the furtherest callpier form the master cylinder, the off side (from the curb) rear.
With the bottle underneath and the end of the hose in the bottle, as the helper to push down on the pedal and hold,
Open the little bleed valve until the fluid stops flowing under pressure (like a second),
Close the valve,
ask helper too raise the pedal.
You need to be clear with this, I use simple words, like "Down" and "Up", make sure they know to hold it and not to push until you say down, it can end up sucking air in or squirting fluid out!
Keep doing this until you have good clean fluid coming from through the clear hose.
Every two or three cycles, get the helper to check the fluid level in the engine bay, this cannot run out or you will have to start over as it will suck air into the system.
Once the furtherest one is complete, do the other rear and work your way around to the front near side (drivers), when the last is done, the master cylinder should be clean and all the lines and calipers good to go.
As for the pads, ensure NO ONE touches the brake pedal when you have the pads out, this will push the pistons outwards or even pop them form the calliper, very messy and bad for the piston seals!
I hope that helps you, if ther is anything I missed, by all means someone else chip in and cover it!
NOTE:
If you are not sure, see a mechanic, as these are your brakes, and getting it wrong could be VERY bad, saying that, if you are handy with the spanners doing it yourself can save you a few bucks.
Preperation.
I find someone that can be a helper for 1/2 an hour.
Ask them to sit in the cab with the seat adjusted to them.
Have a bottle or two of good brake fluid handy that is the same grade as specified for your vehilce (usually DOT 8 is fine) and some clean towel to lay under the brake master cylinder and another to rest the bottle on when not being used.
There are special tools for the next part, but I always make my own from a coke bottle. You will need some clear hose and a drink bottle. The hose needs to fit over the bleed nipple on the brake caliper, this is the odd looking bolt located in the upper most area of each caliper. You just want to cover the "nipple" part and keep the hex part clear so you can put a correct fitting spanner on it.
The task
I use a suction gun to empty the bulk of the fluid form the master cylinder located under the bonnet on the drivers side, a squirt bottle into a container will work if you don't have a gun. Re-fill with clean fluid.
From there, put the clear line on the furtherest callpier form the master cylinder, the off side (from the curb) rear.
With the bottle underneath and the end of the hose in the bottle, as the helper to push down on the pedal and hold,
Open the little bleed valve until the fluid stops flowing under pressure (like a second),
Close the valve,
ask helper too raise the pedal.
You need to be clear with this, I use simple words, like "Down" and "Up", make sure they know to hold it and not to push until you say down, it can end up sucking air in or squirting fluid out!
Keep doing this until you have good clean fluid coming from through the clear hose.
Every two or three cycles, get the helper to check the fluid level in the engine bay, this cannot run out or you will have to start over as it will suck air into the system.
Once the furtherest one is complete, do the other rear and work your way around to the front near side (drivers), when the last is done, the master cylinder should be clean and all the lines and calipers good to go.
As for the pads, ensure NO ONE touches the brake pedal when you have the pads out, this will push the pistons outwards or even pop them form the calliper, very messy and bad for the piston seals!
I hope that helps you, if ther is anything I missed, by all means someone else chip in and cover it!
Thanks alot, I should be able to handle this with your detailed post, thanks again man..
Sit. Stay.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 18,308
Likes: 20
From: Washington State
If you cannot find a helper go to the store and get a one-man brake bleeder. It's basically a one way valve that allows you to open the bleed screw, put the one-man bleeder on and they you can go in the truck and push the pedal yourself without fear of getting air in the system.
Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 90
Likes: 2
Have a bottle or two of good brake fluid handy that is the same grade as specified for your vehilce (usually DOT 8 is fine) and some clean towel to lay under the brake master cylinder and another to rest the bottle on when not being used.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 421
From: Long Island USA
Thread moved to the Superduty forum.
I would also mention that the ABS system should be exercised after the fluid flush. As a matter of fact, I'd do it, and then flush it again, but that's just me.
I would also mention that the ABS system should be exercised after the fluid flush. As a matter of fact, I'd do it, and then flush it again, but that's just me.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 421
From: Long Island USA
Thread moved to the Superduty forum.
I would also mention that the ABS system should be exercised after the fluid flush. As a matter of fact, I'd do it, and then flush it again, but that's just me.
I would also mention that the ABS system should be exercised after the fluid flush. As a matter of fact, I'd do it, and then flush it again, but that's just me.
