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My truck for sure has a case of the drips I have cleaned it up again and hoped that it was not true or not my truck leaving the drips in the parking spots. I changed my Turbo a couple weeks ago and all was good for a while, also changed all the o-rings but I did not gut the pedestal. I just zip tied the rod to the fuel line just in case I ever wanted to hook it back up. Now just try and guess were the frigging leak is. Have you ever called yourself a dumb azz? fficeffice" /><O></O> Well I guess I can take it all back off and clean up down there a little more and plug the rod hole. I put on the GTP 38R with the 1.15 housing so I did already delete the EBPV housing.<O></O> Can anyone think of anything else I should do while I back in there. I just cant stand having a leak of any type.
You should zip right through this after just doing it. All the bolts should be easy to get off and the clamps also. I think I would change the 0-rings again.
You should zip right through this after just doing it. All the bolts should be easy to get off and the clamps also. I think I would change the 0-rings again.
Rick it has only been 2 weeks do you think I should still change them again. I plan on doing it this weekend so I cant get a ring kit from Bob in time but I guess I can run down to the dealer and get a set. Does the dealer have viton o-ring?
Eddie PM Ron. He had some advice regarding torque specs that he felt were better than what a lot of directions say because they torque too much and cause leaks. I can't remember what the numbers were though.
Jason made a good point, I torqued mine per Rons info, ped=20fp and 18fp turbo I think, can't remember unless I check. I noticed a light ammount of oil on my pedestal coming from above the accuater valve. Cleaned it up and i'll look again in a couple days. Before you pull everything and Ron might agree, just loosen up the turbo bolts a smidge, I think Ron did that and it stopped seeping..He'll pop on and verify..
Eddie said it was the EBPV actuator. No re-torqeing is going to help that.
And I agree with Mr. Miller. Bellowed uppies if you've got the change.
Man Robin, i,m batting a thousand today, thanks for the correction.. I didn't rebuild my EBPV assembly, hope its not that on mine. I,m hoping it just residule leftover from the switchout, maybe I didn't get it all, who knows, we'll see..Good luck Eddie
Last edited by big poppa; Jun 5, 2009 at 07:28 PM.
Reason: Who knows
Eddie said it was the EBPV actuator. No re-torqeing is going to help that.
And I agree with Mr. Miller. Bellowed uppies if you've got the change.
Its easy to see that its leaking at the actuator rod and its getting worse quick maybe because the rods in a different angle than it was for the last almost 10 years. I took it a good drive today and looked in the back with a die lite while it was running and I could see a mist of smoke coming out around the rod so I know the seal is shot. It will get fixed tomorrow if at all possible. What size Plug does it take to plug the rod hole off 1/8 or 1/4 NPT ?
Its easy to see that its leaking at the actuator rod and its getting worse quick maybe because the rods in a different angle than it was for the last almost 10 years. I took it a good drive today and looked in the back with a die lite while it was running and I could see a mist of smoke coming out around the rod so I know the seal is shot. It will get fixed tomorrow if at all possible. What size Plug does it take to plug the rod hole off 1/8 or 1/4 NPT ?
It depend on what you tap it to. There are no threads in the hole right now. Could be 3/8", I don't know.
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