Where you go now depends on a few different factors: Type of paint used, condition/type of the surrounding paint, how much effort you want to put into it (blend in locally vs renew entire truck) equipment available (high quality power buffer with foam and wool pads vs hand buff).
I will assume locally/by hand. There are paint type products out there for leveling/blending, or you could spray a couple more coats of the color double diluted with thinner, finishing with a coat of 10% paint/90% thinner. The idea is to extend the covered area slightly past the overspray of the previous coat to blend off the texture and gloss. This works well for single part colors. Give the paint plenty of time to cure, a couple weeks for single part. Use a machine grade (not hand grade it's too course if you don't know what you are doing) rubbing compound by hand on a wet but not drippy clean soft cotton cloth (old towel or T shirt) folded neatly into a palm sized pad. Keep the work area damp with a spray bottle of water. Work primarily from the newly painted area out concentrating on the over sprayed section. Wipe dry with clan cloths regularly to check progress. You should be able to feel the difference as you rub and the area gets smoother. Stop when there is no longer an appearance difference across the blended area.
At this point you can give the area a waxing with a good wax (NOT a polish or anything that's an opaque liquid product with compound in it) following the directions on the container. If you want a higher gloss use 3M Hand Glaze according to the directions on the bottle before waxing. If you use the hand glaze, you'll probably want to do the whole truck with it.

 

Ok sounds great, just for giggles lets say I am looking for a good time on a sat. night what would be the renew entire truck steps? Wouldnt mind the truck looking good for the summer.
Thanks a ton.
Cbass

 

Id give it a real good washing, claybar the whole thing then go over it with the Hand Glaze followed by a good paste wax (I always liked Simonize in the yellow oversized tuna fish can). Best set aside a weekend in a shady location tho.

 

one last question, what is the best inexpensive power buffer I could use for this. I would rather not dump a ton of cash but is there a buffer that doesnt cost a boat load but does a good job?

 

Also, I read someplace that after letting the paint dry instead of doing the deluted spray that I could use like 2000 grit wet paper and sand it all smooth and this would get it supper smooth and help with the blending, is this true?

 

Double Post, sorry.

 

The diluted paint makes rubbing out easier and faster. Even with 2000 grit paper you can sand thru pretty quickly. the rubbing compound is ~ 2400 grit IIRC.
When it comes to tools, you usually get what you pay for. It's expensive to gear down an electric motor to a slow enough speed without sacrificing the power needed for a large enough disk. Even the pads are relatively expensive.

 

Ok, I have been working on the paint now that it has had time to dry well and that I am waiting for my starter to get here. So I have parts that are awesome as can be seen in the photos but I also have parts that you can still see little scratches from wet sanding (not visible in the pictures). What can I do to get rid of these? I have gone over it like 4 times with the rubbing compound, which worked on the other spots but it just wont work on these.

Here are the before and after of the good spots

 

lookin good!!

 

I have a friend that is REALLY picky about how you polish this stuff out. His 85 Mercedes convertible is perfect, and the black paint looks 100ft deep.
He came over last weekend and we worked a little on the green truck. Him showing me areas that needed work, and he brought his tools to work with.

1200, 2000, and 2500 wet/dry papers, and a set of griots garage grits and buffing pads from http://www.griotsgarage.com

we worked a couple sections using grits from 1 to 4, and spent about an hour on the left cab corner behind the drivers door. there was still some orangepeel as well as some good prior scratch and swirl marks. the buffing pad was amazing, and he was confident that you can do multicurve shapes without much difficulty.. the air orbital polisher was great.. light and easy to use with the 6 in pads. the pad was at best about 1/4 as fast as sand paper, so you DON'T go over the edge (thur) very easily..

the difference is quite incredible to me. pics don't show it yet however.

he was also clear that this wasn't the only equipment or material to use, but HE was happy with the amount of effort and results.

Sam

 

Does he use a seperate pad for each grit or can you use the same pad for all the grits as you move from 1 to 4?

 

he uses a separate pad, labeled for each grit, washes the pads after use in the kitchen sink, no soap. He likes the air polisher, cause its one hand, where the electric is 2. (easier distance reach)..

Sam