I have a '95 5.0 Eddie Bauer F-150 that has been giving me one hell of a time. The truck runs pretty rough, especially when cold, and gets about 6 mpg in the city and about 9 highway. When the engine is cold and I give it some gas to get going from a stop it will hesitate and choke out before catching itself and continuing to run. Usually it smooths out when it warms up a bit, other times it will stall out and be unwilling to restart immediately. If I walk away for awhile it will start right up after a 30 minute break or so, whether the engine is warm or cold.
So far I have tuned it up; plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil change, cleaned the throttle body, replaced the o2 sensor, and replaced the fuel filter. After this didn't fix the problem I flashed the codes using a jumper wire and counting flashes as I don't have a code reader. After falsely believing that it was all an EGR system problem I replaced the EGR Switch, EGR Sensor, and EGR Valve. No such luck as none of these helped the problem.
Today it left me on the side of the road again and after pulling it home started up after sitting for about an hour and a half. While I was sitting there I flashed the codes again (yes I reset them after the first round of "fixes") and ended up with the following codes,
KOEO:
34: PFE or EVP circuit above the closed limit of 0.67 volts.
67: Neutral safety circuit failure (don't see how that would be related)
84: EGR Vacuum Solenoid circuit failure
CM:
34: PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed above the closed limit of 0.67 volts.
41: HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (right side).

I'm stumped. I've ordered the shop manual for the truck so I can get the diagnostic flow charts but living in Alaska can't expect the books to get here for about a week or so. If anyone has any insight or ideas, I would be all ears.

On a seperate note, the truck started life as a manual and a previous owner foolishly replaced it with a c6 which I just had rebuilt. I have yet to change over the radiator to an automatic version with a trans cooler as I'm currently running an aftermarket unit for that. The new radiator will go in as soon as it's running better. I also installed a B&M Z-gate shifer (hence the neutral safety circuit failure.

-Thomas

 

You listed two digit codes and a 95 only has three digit codes.
So everything you listed is wrong.

Try pulling the vacuum hose off the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) and see if you have any fuel in it.
If you do it is bad and may be your problem then you would need to replace the FPR.
Also when it does not start try holding the throttle to the floor while cranking the engine and see if it does not start.
When it does not start does the fuel pump run all the time the engine is not running and the key is in the on position?

To check your codes go to one of these links below:

This is good for the KOEO test:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

This one is good for the KOER test:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=94

If you want to practice reading three digit codes with the CEL (MIL) click on this link and read below the video first:
http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...truckcodes.flv

Or get a code reader, here is a good one.
The EQUUS #3145
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...CodeReader.jpg

 

i had a similar problem turned out it was the tfi module on the side of the distributor it may even be cracked or corroded.

 

Causing you to read the wrong number of digits in the codes?


By the way he does not have a TFI module on the side of the Distributor.

 

A 95 is OBD I, so it would not have 3 digit codes.

 

You are right about the OBD I, but the 1995 OBD I only had the three digit codes. No two digit in 1995.

 

arent the KOEO codes two digit?

 

Not in a 1995 Ford Truck.

 

Codes went from 2-digit to 3-digit sometime in the middle of the '92 model year for F-series trucks.

Jason

 

But not all were 3-digit until 1995, 1994 was the last year that some were 2-digit and most were 3-digit.

 

You have the symptom of a bad ignition pickup coil, aka stator or stator assy in the distrubutor. Do all of the aforementioned checks on the fuel issues, then if you still have the "dying and not starting for an hour" issues, get into the distrubutor. It may be easier to replace the distributor complete then to remove the coil.

 

Would second the TFI as a suspect item. Even though Ford wisely moved it to a remote location on a dedicated heat sink (Driver's fenderwell, by diagnostic ports and spout connector as I recall?) they are still a weak point. Have seen them cause the symptoms described much more frequently than the stator in the distributor, although that is a possiblility as well. First things first....get the proper codes and see what you have. Never have pulled mine, didn't realize they went to 3 digit codes with the OBD I ...learned something new. Checking FPR is a good move too. Good luck and let us know what you find.