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Amp draw from heated mirrors??

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Old May 31, 2009 | 04:39 AM
  #16  
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I WANT I WANT I WANT!
I will change my mirrors out one of these days, time to put in some nice extendable heated mirrors.
I would like to hook it up as you did though. Timed or on/off w/ignition
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 04:54 AM
  #17  
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not sure how to wire in a timer..I don't use it..it always times out too early for me..and they take for ever too heat back up...I have a lighted toggle switch hook to power with key on..I drive tractor trailer with a dash full of switches..so shutting things off at shut down is common practice for me..keep an eye in the classifieds..I scored a set of 05 mirrors manual telescopic ,electric glass, heated and lighted with chrome covers for 150 to my door..
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 05:00 AM
  #18  
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oh, nice score!
Yea a toggle is probably best, less to go wrong. Heated mirrors should would be nice for up here during the fall and winter months
 
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 10:32 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by megawatt00
I was just wondering if it was listed somewhere on the mirror.
Originally Posted by ron's power stroke
1.4 Amp per side..i used a 5 amp fuse for both sides..

Black w/white stripe - mirror heat. Each mirror draws 1.4 amps.
Thank you Ron!! I believe that's what Jim and I needed. So Jim, a 5 amp'r should work then.

Originally Posted by JockD
I used a timer relay from a Jeep Cherokee. It fits a standard Bosch relay socket, and times out after 5 minutes. I cycle it twice to get the fog off. I have it set up so I can leave it on all the time, too, with a 2-way rocker switch. I ran that thorough a relay so it has to be restarted if I shut the key off.
Originally Posted by ron's power stroke
i never under stood the timmer..it takes a good 5 minutes for the mirror to heat up..by that time its timed out..what happends when you need to back up or look out the mirror to switch lanes?? turn them on and wait??? up here there is no suck thing as flat land..your going up or your going down..the mirror will fog then clear then fog again..when it rains the heat keeps the mirror dry if you use rainX to clean them..i just used a lighted on off switch hooked to power with key on only....didnt wast my time or $$ to wire a timer cause ill never use it..

this guy did the testing..each mirror use 1.4Amps
New Mirror installation
The only reason I'm going with the timer is because I'm using the rear window defrost switch from an Excursion. I replaced my dash bezel for an Ex on that has this factory switch built in. If I just used a toggle, then there'll be a random hole in the dash. I even thought I'd just skip the timed relay but after talking to Jim, I have to use one with this particular switch. I would have mine set at 15 to 20 minutes before timing off. I'm like Jock in that they'll fog up a little on a humid morning and may be iced over after a snowstorm in the winter. Where I'm at here in Montana, there are not alot of times where I'm driving up and down, in and out of fog. And I haven't had many times where the humidity or moisture in the air has frozen to them during the winter. I just want to get in it, start the truck and if the mirrors are fogged or frozen, then hit the button and let them heat while it warms up. Then I should be good to go for a while.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 01:53 PM
  #20  
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I have a couple of rear window defrost switches from a mid-90's Ford Explorer that I intended to use for a mirror delay power feed but i cannot figure out the wiring so they are just sitting on my workbench.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 01:57 PM
  #21  
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Well Chris, when I figure it out (with Jims help of course), I'll let you know.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 01:59 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by strokersace
Well Chris, when I figure it out (with Jims help of course), I'll let you know.
Thanks, there are five wires that go into the switch and I was told that they have an internal delay of 15 minutes or so. I bought a box of them from a guy at a swap meet for next to nothing but for the life of me, cannot figure out the wiring. Not that good with electrical stuff I'm afraid. Jim will get you hooked up for sure.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 02:38 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Ponyboychris
Thanks, there are five wires that go into the switch and I was told that they have an internal delay of 15 minutes or so. I bought a box of them from a guy at a swap meet for next to nothing but for the life of me, cannot figure out the wiring. Not that good with electrical stuff I'm afraid. Jim will get you hooked up for sure.
You can't hook them up like a fancy looking toggle. Has to go thought a relay. Now after reading this above, it makes me wonder if the time delay is in the switch, or the computer/relay. If the delay feature is part of the switch, then any relay should work. Don't know that for sure though. On mine there are 5 wires as well. Ground, vehicle speed sensor neg. (ground), power input (key on hot), switched power (to energize the relay), and illumination.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 02:51 PM
  #24  
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I'll have the diagram in a day or so. I have it mostly drawn out just have to look up some part #s and neaten it up.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 05:14 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by megawatt00
I'll have the diagram in a day or so. I have it mostly drawn out just have to look up some part #s and neaten it up.
Sounds great! Let me know.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 12:44 PM
  #26  
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I hope that this helps Ryan
 
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 01:04 PM
  #27  
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Ok, Jim I'll need some clarification on this. Would the Input voltage #2 be directly from the battery or would this be the switched/fused power from the switch with the power in on/run being supplied to the switch first?

I've got 3 wires currently that I'm wondering how they hook up. I've got all time hot under the dash to tap into if needbe. The 2 on the switch would be the power input and switched power (power to the relay). The other one would be the power lead to the mirrors. The switch has a built in led that comes on when the connection is made, relay is energized, and power is sent to the mirrors.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 01:08 PM
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#2 can be either directly from the battery or from a feed in the run position
The 2 on the switch if they don't have power will go to 5&6

I wish that I had the switch in front of me to see exactly what does what.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 01:56 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by megawatt00
#2 can be either directly from the battery or from a feed in the run position
The 2 on the switch if they don't have power will go to 5&6

I wish that I had the switch in front of me to see exactly what does what.
I can send you a pdf of of the wiring discription and picture of the switch plug. Also the the diagram of the rear window defrost and how it all hooks up. It'd have to be tomorrow though cause I don't have the book here at work today.

Or where you wanting to dimantle the switch to look at the internals?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 05:10 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by strokersace
I can send you a pdf of of the wiring discription and picture of the switch plug. Also the the diagram of the rear window defrost and how it all hooks up. It'd have to be tomorrow though cause I don't have the book here at work today.

Or where you wanting to dimantle the switch to look at the internals?
By looking at the switch I would be able to tell what 2 wires would go to the terminals to start the timer. I may be able to do it from the diagrams that you have. Kinda tough to put 2 systems that are not designed for each other together without seeing the parts. If you want give me a call and maybe I can walk you through ringing out the switch
 
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