silly question
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silly question
alright fellas, by now surely we've figured out that i'm a woman that lacks a certain amount of mechanical experience....but just for fun, is there an easier way to remove the egr valve? mind you i can remove the fuel filter (the husband fought with it for 2 days before i got a hold of it..had it off in 20 minutes) so i'm not helpless...just wondering the easiest way to remove a part that is 17 years old and corroded....without losing my mind 
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i know there is a difference between the sensor and the valve...how do you recommend that we determine which is the problem...we tried a couple things we found online...but it would be nice to hear some suggestions from someone who knows vs. reading it on a random website...please be gentle...i am a girl-don't understand most of the "manly" mechanic talk... 
the plunger in the bottom of the egr valve does not move...it acts like it's stuck...everything seems to be working fine on the top (which is where the sensor is right?)
the plunger in the bottom of the egr valve does not move...it acts like it's stuck...everything seems to be working fine on the top (which is where the sensor is right?)
Last edited by hismuddpuppy; May 29, 2009 at 01:28 PM. Reason: adding to...
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2004
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If you are getting codes from the scanner that indicate EGR valve, it could be that the Catalytic Converter is clogged up, or it could be that the Oxygen Sensors are not working correctly.
I would add that getting good troubleshooting advice from this far away is going to be hard and maybe incorrect. There's a method to troubleshooting, most have a different method.
I would add that getting good troubleshooting advice from this far away is going to be hard and maybe incorrect. There's a method to troubleshooting, most have a different method.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Bend,OR
go to Ford Fuel Injection or look on your haynes manual on how to test the EGR valve. you need a vacume pump. if the egr is bad then soaking the bolts with liquid wrench for a few days should help. dont use an air ratchet, only use a socket and do it by hand. the air tools will break a bolt easily.
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we got the egr squared away...now we're getting system pass codes, but the truck still won't accelerate without trying to stall...idles fine...it's only when you put your foot on the gas it starts being hard to get along with
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2004
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Sounds like it has a distributor advance problem. The advance is governed by the computer. I'm not sure of the troubleshooting steps. Let us know what you're trying/tried.
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what is the distributor advance? we have checked the throttle position sensor, replaced the o2 sensors, now it's reading a code 334: DPFE or EVP circuit above the closed limit of 0.67 volts. any idea what the heck that is?? we have put new spark plugs, new wires--triple checked the wiring, new distributor cap, new rotor button, and replaced the fuel filter...i'm out...any suggestions? seems like the problem is getting worse...
Cargo Master
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As the engine accelerates, i.e., turns faster, the spark needs to occur earlier than when it's turning slower. In order to have the spark occur at the correct point the distributor "advances". This used to be done with a vacuum from the intake manifold. Now it's done by the computer. If the computer doesn't advanced the distributor, which it might if it's not getting the right signals, then it's hard for the engine to accelerate properly.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Gateway to the West
The drawback here is that if the problem was ignition module (TFI module)-related you would get something OTHER than Code 11 or Code 111. The monitoring would throw a code.
I'd be looking the the direction of ECT sensor or AIT/ACT sensor. These two sensors can be defective and still "tell" the ECM (main computer) that everything is fine when in fact the sensor is not responding to thermal changes as it is supposed to. The most common sensor to fail is the ECT sensor located in the top of the water neck. A search of the forum should yield a chart that I have posted several times that gives a resistance reading for different temperatures if you have a multimeter and are willing to test it. If not, you can just replace it. It's money you may or may not need to spend though so I advise checking it first. This is a link to one of the threads/posts regarding these sensors...
I'd be looking the the direction of ECT sensor or AIT/ACT sensor. These two sensors can be defective and still "tell" the ECM (main computer) that everything is fine when in fact the sensor is not responding to thermal changes as it is supposed to. The most common sensor to fail is the ECT sensor located in the top of the water neck. A search of the forum should yield a chart that I have posted several times that gives a resistance reading for different temperatures if you have a multimeter and are willing to test it. If not, you can just replace it. It's money you may or may not need to spend though so I advise checking it first. This is a link to one of the threads/posts regarding these sensors...
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
The drawback here is that if the problem was ignition module (TFI module)-related you would get something OTHER than Code 11 or Code 111. The monitoring would throw a code.
I'd be looking the the direction of ECT sensor or AIT/ACT sensor. These two sensors can be defective and still "tell" the ECM (main computer) that everything is fine when in fact the sensor is not responding to thermal changes as it is supposed to. The most common sensor to fail is the ECT sensor located in the top of the water neck. A search of the forum should yield a chart that I have posted several times that gives a resistance reading for different temperatures if you have a multimeter and are willing to test it. If not, you can just replace it. It's money you may or may not need to spend though so I advise checking it first. This is a link to one of the threads/posts regarding these sensors... LINK
I'd be looking the the direction of ECT sensor or AIT/ACT sensor. These two sensors can be defective and still "tell" the ECM (main computer) that everything is fine when in fact the sensor is not responding to thermal changes as it is supposed to. The most common sensor to fail is the ECT sensor located in the top of the water neck. A search of the forum should yield a chart that I have posted several times that gives a resistance reading for different temperatures if you have a multimeter and are willing to test it. If not, you can just replace it. It's money you may or may not need to spend though so I advise checking it first. This is a link to one of the threads/posts regarding these sensors... LINK
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we already replaced it, the sensor part of it was already broken...that was actually the first thing we changed..seems like forever ago which is probably why i didn't remember, but the husband was quick to remind me...sorry i left that one off