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Engine running rough--help needed

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Old May 28, 2009 | 02:47 PM
  #1  
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Engine running rough--help needed

OK guys, here we go again! Today it was 70 degrees out. My truck was cold (hasnt been run in 12 hours). I started it up just like EVERY other time. Today, I heard a little bit of a knocking, and there was blue smoke coming out the exhaust. I shut if down and restarted, and it was doing the same thing. I decided to drive it a little ways, hoping it would clear out. The exhaust cleared out ok, but the engine was still running a little rough--not too bad, but noticeable. During my 5-6 mile trip, it seemed to lack power, then have all kinds of power, and go back and forth. At one time, it tried to stall, but I was able to catch it by putting it in neutral and keeping it at about 1,000 rpm's. I got to my destination ok. After I came back out after about 15-20 mins, I checked the oil (clean and to the full mark), drained the fuel bowl (plenty of fuel inside), I heard the fuel pump running when I turn the key on, and it sounded normal. I started the truck, and it ran like nothing ever happened. I got home, and disconnected the battery to restart the computer. I reconnected it after about 20 minutes and started it up. It would idle just fine, no smoke, but when I gave it throttle, it would chug a little and blow some blue smoke out the exhaust. It kinda sounds like an injector problem to me, a IPR, or maybe even a HPOP, but I need some more opinions. It sounded like it was only knocking on one cylinder, not all 8, so Im really not too sure...Thats where all you smart guys come it!!
Also, the CEL never came on, so I doubt there were any codes.
Thanks in advance,
Aaron
 
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Old May 28, 2009 | 03:01 PM
  #2  
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gtnwood
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Cant wait to hear the response, my 2000 did the exact same thing a few weeks back but has run fine ever since
 
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Old May 28, 2009 | 04:52 PM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by dyhrdford
OK guys, here we go again! Today it was 70 degrees out. My truck was cold (hasnt been run in 12 hours). I started it up just like EVERY other time. Today, I heard a little bit of a knocking, and there was blue smoke coming out the exhaust. I shut if down and restarted, and it was doing the same thing. I decided to drive it a little ways, hoping it would clear out. The exhaust cleared out ok, but the engine was still running a little rough--not too bad, but noticeable. During my 5-6 mile trip, it seemed to lack power, then have all kinds of power, and go back and forth. At one time, it tried to stall, but I was able to catch it by putting it in neutral and keeping it at about 1,000 rpm's. I got to my destination ok. After I came back out after about 15-20 mins, I checked the oil (clean and to the full mark), drained the fuel bowl (plenty of fuel inside), I heard the fuel pump running when I turn the key on, and it sounded normal. I started the truck, and it ran like nothing ever happened. I got home, and disconnected the battery to restart the computer. I reconnected it after about 20 minutes and started it up. It would idle just fine, no smoke, but when I gave it throttle, it would chug a little and blow some blue smoke out the exhaust. It kinda sounds like an injector problem to me, a IPR, or maybe even a HPOP, but I need some more opinions. It sounded like it was only knocking on one cylinder, not all 8, so Im really not too sure...Thats where all you smart guys come it!!
Also, the CEL never came on, so I doubt there were any codes.
Thanks in advance,
Aaron
Take a look at the ICP sensor ,look for oil leaking from the sensor itself ,,also ,,make sure the connection is good ,clean & tight ...Cheap test ...
 
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Old May 28, 2009 | 05:03 PM
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You really need to get a scanner on it IMO. Even though a check engine light didn't come on doesn't mean codes are not stored in there somewhere.. If its an IPR issue, I would expect to see a code or something. You might also have a loose UVCH harness issue too.
 
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Old May 28, 2009 | 06:30 PM
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Low fuel pressure will do that too. Hard to believe, I know, but check it just to make sure.
 
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Old May 29, 2009 | 01:57 PM
  #6  
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Codes have been pulled.....

Thank you all for the responses. I was able to obtain a code reader and was also able to run tests with this reader. I HIGHLY recommend a Mac TaskMaster. Its AWESOME what you can do with this thing!!!.
Anyway, the codes:
P603: Internal Ctrl Mod Kam error
P0284: Cyl #8 Contribution or balance fault
P1780: Trans Ctrl Sw Circuit out of range
P0571: Cruise Brake Circuit Malf

I was also able to pull a code from the ABS:
B1932: Driver Air Bag Resistance High.

The Injection Control Pressure was where it needed to be, so I am not thinking an ICP sensor or an IPR is required. It sounds more like the #8 injector to me, but with the other code (P603), I am not sure what that is, so I dont want to completely condemn the injector JUST yet.
Can anybody help point me in the right direction PLEASE?????

It would also be nice to know whats going on with the other codes, if anybody knows those either, or how to FIX them...
Thanks again,
Aaron
 
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Old May 29, 2009 | 02:30 PM
  #7  
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The bottom two codes have me interested more than the #8 fault.. That is common and I wouldn't be concerned about it just yet.
 
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Old May 29, 2009 | 10:15 PM
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Clear all the codes and see which ones pop back up. Did you run a cylinder contribution test, or did the #8 pop up all by itself? Can you monitor rotational velocity (per del) readings with that scanner? What's #8 show compared to the others when the engine is warmed up?
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 12:46 AM
  #9  
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Superdoodie: Why are you more interested in the last two? What is common?

F350-6: Yes, I did perform a contribution test, twice, and the #8 came up both times as a result. "...Can you monitor rotational velocity (per del) readings with that scanner? What's #8 show compared to the others when the engine is warmed up?..." Im afraid I do not understand the "rotational velocity (del)" part. Do you mean engine RPM's? What am I looking for exactly??

Thank you all again for your responses!! Keep 'em coming!
Aaron
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 02:45 AM
  #10  
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Subscribing as I would also like to see the results of this post.
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 07:56 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by dyhrdford
F350-6: Yes, I did perform a contribution test, twice, and the #8 came up both times as a result. "...Can you monitor rotational velocity (per del) readings with that scanner? What's #8 show compared to the others when the engine is warmed up?..." Im afraid I do not understand the "rotational velocity (del)" part. Do you mean engine RPM's? What am I looking for exactly??
Rotational velocity is kind of similar to the contribution test, except instead of being a test, you can monitor what % deviation there is between each cylinder in real time.

If the scanner has a way to monitor live data, you can just pick each cylinder to watch. The ideal number is 0, numbers above 5 can be a cause of concern, but due to the design and firing order of these engines, the #8 usually reads higher, and will sometimes trip the CCT fault even if theirs nothing wrong with the injector.
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 09:29 PM
  #12  
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The P0603 internal ROM code means that you disconnected your batteries, or otherwise lost power to the PCM.

The #8 fault seems common depending on which CPS you have.. I know it popped up on mine for a long time..

Here is some information on your P1780 code..

 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 10:08 PM
  #13  
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I cant thank you guys enough for all the information you have provided for me!! Not only are we getting to the bottom of the issue at hand, but I am learning ALOT from this experience. Thank you all again!

I had my CPS replaced by the dealer a few months back when the recall came out. I am not sure what color it is...

Please excuse my youthful ignorance, but is the TCS the button on the end of the shifter that disables the overdrive???

How about the P0571? Is that a cause for concern?

I will be looking closer at the truck in the morning with the scanner. I believe it IS capable of watching live data, just not sure about that specific detail. I will check on that though.

I would like to know as much as I can now so I can get the most out if it as I do not own it, it is just borrowed. (very sad, I know!)

Thanks again guys!
Aaron
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 11:42 AM
  #14  
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Ok guys, I have a TON of new information for ya's...

I got the reader and checked rotational velocity %: they all read 0%! Now, today when I went to fire it up for the first time and every OTHER time after that, the truck would crank, but not even TRY to start...Every time in between that, it would start, and here comes rough and the blue smoke! I was able to watch the RPMs and the ICP, and they were both within spec. About 150 for the RPM's, and about 1100psi for the ICP every time, start or no start.

Thinking injector seals may be leaking I checked the engine oil and there was no trace of fuel smell, so I dont think fuel is getting in the oil. I opened the water/fuel separater and it was straw color, not black, so I dont think oil is getting in the fuel.

I opened the drain valve on the separator and ran the engine, and it just dribbles out, leaving me to think I am not getting the volume and/or pressure needed from the fuel pump.

Theroy: Im wondering if because I am not getting the proper amount of fuel in the cylinder or the fuel is not being atomized properly, liquid fuel is washing the cylinders and THAT is where the blue smoke is coming from???

Now, I am beginning to lean towards what Kwikkordead said about the low fuel pressure.

After a few minutes of running, the smoke dissapates and the engine runs a little smoother, but not by much. Would the fuel pump "pick up the pace" after a few minutes??? Also, is it possible for the vacuum in the separator to pull enough fuel through the lines to keep the engine running after it gets going without the fuel pump supplying fuel under pressure???

So many questions, so little time!

Thanks guys,
Aaron
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 12:37 PM
  #15  
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Looks like Kwikkordead was dead on. I just ran the truck for a few minutes running a KOER test with the scanner too and the truck died. I opened the separator cap and it was emptier than a bankers heart! I checked for voltage at the pump. Power is there, its just dead!

I will replace it in the next day or two and let you guys know if it is fixed 100%.

Thanks again guys
Aaron
 
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