I was on the freeway today headed to lunch and was showing a buddy of mine the new tuner.
Ran it in 140 for about 3 seconds, keeping the EGT's below 1200 with no slipping at all.
When we went to exit, the clutch engagement was only about 3 inches from the floor.
The clutch only has 46k miles on it and was replaced with an OEM clutch at 114k miles.
Is it possible that I overheated the fluid in the master cylinder and need to bleed it, or is my clutch just toast?
Seems like a very short life on a new clutch. I dont tow heavy loads often and drive fairly conservatively.
The tuner has been in a week and a half and I have only really played with it a couple of times (drove to Colorado and back with the wife, so didnt get to really romp on it with her in the truck)
Is there a way to bleed the clutch master/slave assembly?

 

Have you changed you hydraulics since the new clutch?

 

I replaced them right before I took it in for the new clutch.
Are you thinking it might just be the hydraulics?

 

I was thinking maybe hydraulics, but since you replaced it probly not.

Here's a bump!!

 

going to try new hydraulics today.
I pulled the slave cylinder last night and the area between the piston and the dust boot was full of brake fluid. Checked the reservoir and it was bone dry.
Will let yall know, but I am thinking this is the issue.

 

Well, I replaced the slave cylinder last night and bled the system. Still do not have clutch contact until I get very close to the floor.
It will drive, but I do not trust it will last long.
When I first get in, i am required to pump the clutch in order to get the pushrod to engage. Is there a possibility that I bent the clutch fork, or is this a sign of a toasted clutch?

 

You should not have to pump the pedal.

Try bleeding it again (they can be a real PITA).

Also check the linkage at the clutch pedal,there is a plastic bushing that goes on where the m/c rod connects.If it is worn,missing,you will loose pedal travel.

 

very good, I will try that.
the slave is brand new, Bushing in tact.
If it was not completely bled would a bubble compress to the point that the clutch would disengage?
Also, if the clutch was going out, would I have similar symptoms? (If I remember correctly, this is almost identical to what happened last time i had to replace it)

If any of you fellas with a handshaker happen to be under your truck this weekend, can you pull your slave and measure the distance from the clutch fork to the outside of the housing? (I understand that it was just the 99's and 2000's with the weak fork, but would like to confirm that this is not the problem)

If it does end up being the clutch do any of you locally know a good mechanic in San Antonio?

 

Well, after many attempts, I finally got the hydraulics bled.
The clutch is back to good working order again.
Still a very slight, very intermittant slip at high speeds, but I assume a little of the brake fluid sprayed the surface when the slave cylinder went out. Hopefully that fades away with a few miles on it.

Thank ya'll again for all of your help!

 

Just curious how much that clutch cost you. I was talking to a friend a few weeks ago about making an upgrade for these trucks. He said he can make one around $700 maybe a little less. I really like the clutches he makes, we spends some time doing research on the torque and pedal feel.

 

my southbend cost $1150+/- $25 shipped included fork, flywheel, kevlair pilot bushing, pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing

 

What kind of flywheel, is it a resurfaced flywheel? Did you have to turn in any core parts?

 

brand new flywheel no core parts what so ever

 

That's not such a bad price if it includes a new flywheel. I'll talk to him see if we can get that as an option. This is just an idea in planning.

 

I bought it was two yrs ago, this is the site i bought it from i think it gone up a little bit
South Bend Clutches - http://www.blackclouddiesel.com Ford Diesel Pickup Trucks
its the MU1944 Con FE towards the bottom of the page