76 rear hub/drum
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Indiana Cornfields
76 rear hub/drum
I have a 76 F250 4x4 and I found out that one of the rear drums was cracked. I tried pulling the drum off, only to find that the drum and hub are all one piece. I didn't think this was a big deal, but none of the auto parts stores sells the whole assembly. They only sell the drum. Does anybody know where I can find the whole thing. Its really important because I need this truck for this coming weekend.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
The old studs have to be pressed out, then new studs have to be pressed in.
The studs have serrations on the ends. Once they are removed, they should not be used over again because the serrations will be compromised.
If the old studs are used with the new drum, sooner or later...usually sooner...the drum will begin to separate from the hub.
Autoparts stores like NAPA with a machine shop can do this, and should have the new studs.
The studs have serrations on the ends. Once they are removed, they should not be used over again because the serrations will be compromised.
If the old studs are used with the new drum, sooner or later...usually sooner...the drum will begin to separate from the hub.
Autoparts stores like NAPA with a machine shop can do this, and should have the new studs.
Senior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 105
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From: Staten Island
Remove the hub/drum assembly from the axle(if you don't know how to do this let us know and I'll walk you through this)Thread a lug nuy a few threads onto each wheel stud and drive out all of the wheels studs with a big hammer.You should then be able to separate the drum from the hub.The whole assembly would be enormously expensive if purchased as a unit so the drum and hub are 2 different pieces.If the drum and hub do not separate hit the drum with a hammer till they do.When you get the new drum put it on the hub.You can re use the old studs if you have to or change to new,which ever you prefer.I have only changed studs about 10% of the time and have never seen them pressed in.just make sure that they are seated well into the drum and hub.The hub isn't pressed into the drum,it's just a tight fit.I would however recommend using a torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts.when i was younger i always used an impact but that was 20 years ago and i suspect that metal components were manufactured better.These days you never know,so I have gotten into the habit of doing all wheels(even heavy truck)with a torque wrench
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From: Indiana Cornfields
Ok thanks guys. I already have the assembly off the axle, I just didn't realize that the hub and drum came apart. And new studs were only like 2 bucks a piece at the auto parts store, so I figure I will just go ahead and put new ones in. Once again, thanks everybody, this is the reason I love this site!
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Using old studs when the drum is replaced is a disaster waiting to happen, ESPECIALLY if driven out with a hammer.
The serrations on the studs flatten out when removed from the hub.
Go right on ahead and use those old studs in the hub...but do not come crying to me when the hub and drum come apart!!
And come apart they will!
I was a Ford partsman for 35 years, so I know what procedure is correct, and what ain't!
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Senior User
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From: Indiana Cornfields
I hear you NumberDummy. Thats why I am going to use new studs. I don't know if our Napa has a machine shop or not, but I will see. If not, then I'm sure I can find something nearby.
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Joined: May 2009
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From: Staten Island
I have been a mechanic for 20 years now and have worked in some of the toughest shops in the area.When I was 20 I was the shop foreman for one of the largest roofing co's in NJ and I was there for years,I then moved on to work with one of the largest tanker co's in the northeast for 10 years and have fixed everything from drills to cranes.I have never seen studs pressed out on a light duty truck.If you bring it to a napa they are going to drive out the studs with a hammer and drive them back in with a hammer.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 522
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From: Harrisburg, OR
Instead of driving them in with a hammer get a 1/4" thick washer put it over the stud after it is put into the hub and then put the nut on and wrench the nut. It will pull the stud straight through. Using a hammer and punch isn't a good idea.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
I have been a mechanic for 20 years now and have worked in some of the toughest shops in the area.When I was 20 I was the shop foreman for one of the largest roofing co's in NJ and I was there for years,I then moved on to work with one of the largest tanker co's in the northeast for 10 years and have fixed everything from drills to cranes.I have never seen studs pressed out on a light duty truck.If you bring it to a napa they are going to drive out the studs with a hammer and drive them back in with a hammer.
There is a correct way to do things...pressing studs in and out is one of them.
I've seen this done countless times at Ford dealers and autoparts store machine shops.
Not ONCE did anyone use a hammer to R&R wheel studs.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: London, Ontario Canada
I've been in the carbiz/car hobby prolly longer than you've been alive.
There is a correct way to do things...pressing studs in and out is one of them.
I've seen this done countless times at Ford dealers and autoparts store machine shops.
Not ONCE did anyone use a hammer to R&R wheel studs.
There is a correct way to do things...pressing studs in and out is one of them.
I've seen this done countless times at Ford dealers and autoparts store machine shops.
Not ONCE did anyone use a hammer to R&R wheel studs.
i 100% agree they are always pressed in and out at a shop, i like when NumberDummy tells it how it is, or at least how its supposed to be done, i know i am not perfect i have used a hammer to tap wheel studs into and out of place, and i know that may not be the right way, but it works, and it was only one, and it looked fine to me after? i know you could crack the flange, and bend the stud, but if you take your time and use a proper hammer (not a claw hammer!) then you can use a hammer, but if you can i would press them in and out if your doing them all, but if you are replacing only one like i had too, (because some idiot before me years ago messed up the treads) then i would say doing one or two is fine, but its best to have things done right,
-Brent
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Joined: Jun 2005
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I vote to use the press. my trucks previous owner did not. He also beat on the hub with a hammer probably trying to separate them the result was a hub seal that would last about 2500 miles and then foul the shoes with a slow seeping.
Senior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 105
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From: Staten Island
To each his own,both ways will accomplish the same result.I have done thousands of brake jobs in my life and have never ever had one come back,not even a leaking seal.
As far as being in the car biz hobby a long time,my mom has been too but I don't think
i would be asking her to help me wrench a transfer case in.You may be the supreme parts guy and I give you credit for that,but what you have seen or looked at or have as a hobby is no match for someone who actually has done the work and whose reputation is on the line every time.If you wanna dish insults you better be ready to back it up with your wrenches,I don't rip anyone else and I go out of my way to be polite.You are a parts guy,I am a mechanic,and the public's safety and my responsibility ride on EVERY repair I do
As far as being in the car biz hobby a long time,my mom has been too but I don't think
i would be asking her to help me wrench a transfer case in.You may be the supreme parts guy and I give you credit for that,but what you have seen or looked at or have as a hobby is no match for someone who actually has done the work and whose reputation is on the line every time.If you wanna dish insults you better be ready to back it up with your wrenches,I don't rip anyone else and I go out of my way to be polite.You are a parts guy,I am a mechanic,and the public's safety and my responsibility ride on EVERY repair I do
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
To each his own,both ways will accomplish the same result.I have done thousands of brake jobs in my life and have never ever had one come back,not even a leaking seal.
As far as being in the car biz hobby a long time,my mom has been too but I don't think
i would be asking her to help me wrench a transfer case in.You may be the supreme parts guy and I give you credit for that,but what you have seen or looked at or have as a hobby is no match for someone who actually has done the work and whose reputation is on the line every time.
If you wanna dish insults you better be ready to back it up with your wrenches, I don't rip anyone else and I go out of my way to be polite.You are a parts guy,I am a mechanic,and the public's safety and my responsibility ride on EVERY repair I do
As far as being in the car biz hobby a long time,my mom has been too but I don't think
i would be asking her to help me wrench a transfer case in.You may be the supreme parts guy and I give you credit for that,but what you have seen or looked at or have as a hobby is no match for someone who actually has done the work and whose reputation is on the line every time.
If you wanna dish insults you better be ready to back it up with your wrenches, I don't rip anyone else and I go out of my way to be polite.You are a parts guy,I am a mechanic,and the public's safety and my responsibility ride on EVERY repair I do
I gave the correct procedure that Ford Dealers have used since demountable wheels were first introduced.
Since I've owned over 325 vehicles since 1956...from Fords (over 80) to Packards (60) and many other makes, I have done this type of work before...and I didn't use a hammer.
Yes...I am a partsman, but once upon a time, I did most of the mechanical work on my cars...because there ain't too many Packard dealers around anymore to take the cars to.