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Old May 24, 2009 | 04:45 PM
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Intake manifold question

Hey, got a question, I'm replacing my leaky head/intake manifold gaskets and while I have everything pulled off I was thinking about replacing the intake manifold with an aftermarket one. I was just wondering if anyone could reccomend a good manifold that wont break my wallet. Also, what are some good headers to get? My exhaust manifolds are cracked so I just thought I'd replace them with headers. Thanks for the input and I have a 1975 F100 2wd with a 2 barrel 390.
 
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Old May 24, 2009 | 10:41 PM
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Any input?
 
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Old May 24, 2009 | 11:27 PM
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it's a ford. theres nothing cheap about it except when you compare it to a mopar. get a dual plane. i have a performer rpm on mine, but it ran like 325$ or whatever the list is in summit. brouse ebay from time to time. as far as headers, i dont know about a 2wd, but ill bet you break at least a few bolts trying to get the manifolds off. might want to think about a cam too while your in that far.
 
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Old May 24, 2009 | 11:39 PM
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Oh yea, I snapped 4 of those f**** bolts. It is a 2wd, it seems that the most common headers around here are hooker or heddman? By the way, since it was brought up, I'm sorry but I dont know much when it comes to picking out a cam, what would be a good streetable cam on a stock 390?
 
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Old May 25, 2009 | 12:27 AM
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I got an Edelbrock performer for my 1st 390 along with a 600cfm Edelbrock carb. I haven't bothered with my current 390 that has a decent running 2v Motorcraft carb. I don't race and rarely get my RPMs over 3K. The iron manifold is very heavy. I'd suggest bolting a lift plate to the carb port and using an engine crane to lift it off the block. Its hard to get a flawless seal across the wide front and rear block walls. Don't be surprised if you end up with a bit of oil leaking particularly on the rear seal of the intake manifold (to block). You'll save a bunch of weight going to the aluminum. I also replaced my cam in that first 390 as I had flattened lobes. I believe it was a Comp cams. I don't really remember the numbers as this was ten years ago. 272 sounds familiar. At the time, it was a commonly used FE cam. Most stock FE's don't have adjustable rockers and require measuring each and every pushrod length OR Crane Cams makes an adjustable rocker replacement/beefy pushrod set. I ended up needing Ford Motorsport 428 valve covers to clear the aftermarket rockers and still be baffled. I made the changes on my 1st 390 because I didn't have a good 2V carb and I had flattened cam lobes from stuck valves/collapsed lifters. In normal low rpm driving, I don't notice a difference. If and when I rebuild my 1st 390 block, I'll probably reuse my 4V stuff, not worth it on my current runner.
 
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Old May 25, 2009 | 07:01 AM
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Stick with something that will be streetable like a Edelbrock Performer, or Performer RPM intake. The The other Edelbrock's operate best at a higher RPM. If you are planning on doing a cam swap, you might want to go with a system. You might want to consider calling Edelbrock's tech line, tell them what you are looking for and ask for a recommendaton.
 
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Old May 27, 2009 | 02:55 PM
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I put the edelbrock performer rpm on mine, i gained 2 mpg going from a 2bbl setup to my 4 bbl set up. Plus the weight loss was really nice when setting that manifold back on the block.
 
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Old May 27, 2009 | 05:42 PM
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dont get the performer. It "performs" almost exactly the same as the 4v factory anchor. Cheapest best way to go: edel rpm, and your choice of cam, you could use the matching rpm cam, or any variety of others that suit your needs. I used hooker long tubes, they were cheap and they fit no problem. Mines a highboy though so others will know more about what fits on the 2wd.

And on the rockers.. fe's came with both adj. and non-adj. rockers. You can find the factory adj. for around 150 and they fit just fine, no new covers needed.
 
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