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Brake Pedal Adjustment

 
  #1  
Old 05-20-2009, 09:40 AM
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Brake Pedal Adjustment

I was just wondering is there anyway to adjust the angle of the brake pedal to make it even halfway closer to the gas pedal as far as distance from the driver. it feels like even a midget can touch the brake pedal if sitting in the seat all the way back. I just cant stand constantly having to pull my foot way up and then push down on the brake then pull it up and push on the gas. then pull it way up.................. you get the picture any way to adjust this?
 
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Old 05-21-2009, 11:00 PM
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A huge bump!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:02 AM
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I was wondering the same thing, so I searched for it on the forums. Haven't found anything yet.... Anybody know anything about this???

And I'm OK with where the pedal is at. My fiancee is the one who has the problems. I guess my foot is big enough to just pivot off the pedal, haha.
 
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:21 PM
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obviously this aint worth anyones time to look at. this is such bull crap. this is why i cant stand this site anymore nobody answers ya unless they wanna bash you also.
 
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by nflfreak43 View Post
obviously this aint worth anyones time to look at. this is such bull crap. this is why i cant stand this site anymore nobody answers ya unless they wanna bash you also.
Wow your attitude sucks.
 
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:43 PM
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well i posted this question almost 5 months ago and no answer still. and its been at the top 3 times now. just i cant believe someone didnt suggest anything. NOTHING!!! its honestly rediculous.
 
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:46 PM
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What's ridiculous is your entitlement attitude. Good luck with that.
 
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:47 PM
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I would have to say that no one answered because no one knows the answer.

So that means that, NO, there is no "adjustment" for the pedal.

If you want to take the pedal off, heat up the arm and bend it backwards, that would be your only solution.
 
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by nflfreak43 View Post
obviously this aint worth anyones time to look at. this is such bull crap. this is why i cant stand this site anymore nobody answers ya unless they wanna bash you also.

Could I ask who put the gun to your head and made you come here in the first place?
 
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Old 10-13-2009, 04:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Otto Square View Post
I would have to say that no one answered because no one knows the answer.

So that means that, NO, there is no "adjustment" for the pedal.

If you want to take the pedal off, heat up the arm and bend it backwards, that would be your only solution.
In your order - no, not quite, and hell no! I for one didn't answer it cause I didn't see it before, I tend to hang around the diesel boards most, as there are less people there who can help with the diesel-specific questions, while there's a whole bunch of ya'll here (mostly gassers it seems) who can discuss such general topics. On the adjustments, you are semi-correct - there's no adjustments from the factory, but there is a way to achieve a lower brake pedal - you need to pull the brake booster off the firewall, and fab up a spacer to fit between the booster and the firewall - this moves the booster away from the firewall, which effectively pulls the brake pedal further down. IIRC the ratio was 1:4, meaning a 1/4" spacer will result in a 1" lower brake pedal. I played with that for quite a while when I converted to hydroboost, I run a Chevrolet unit which has a significantly longer pedal pushrod, so I used that to my advantage to tune my pedal height to where I wanted it (actually higher than factory, screw this low pedal thing, lol). The only problem you may run into using this method is the length of the booster mounting studs - crawl under the dash and measure up the length of the threaded part of the studs sticking out of the nuts that hold the booster to the firewall, that length represents the max thickness of the spacer you can run up front. I'd recommend against bending the pedal arm, as it's not a precise method, and it also tampers with the pedal's strength. Also, make sure the rear brakes are adjusted properly, you don't want the pedal to hit the floor before the master cylinder builds up enough line pressure for locking up the wheels.
 
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Old 10-13-2009, 04:49 AM
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I agree that no one responded to your previous threads, because no one had an answer.

Many threads go with no replies for that reason.

There is no reason to have a bad attitude.

I don't think there is any way to adjust it.

I have not noticed any issues with it. I have driven other cars there the brake pedal nearly touched the gas pedal.
 
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Old 10-13-2009, 09:20 AM
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Texas guy, like I said I didn't respond to his previous threads just cause I didn't see them - I bet lots of threads go into oblivion for that reason too, we all only have so much time we can afford to spend on the internet, and there's only so much you can read and reply to in said time... In any case, I absolutely hated the factory pedal position, way too low - mine sits about an inch higher now, much better feel at my foot, tho I'm sure someone who's well over 6ft would strongly disagree with me. But yeah, lowering the pedal is easy generally speaking, it's lifting it where things get real interesting.
 
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Old 10-13-2009, 11:02 AM
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I was going to answer but the attitude kinda turned me off to help you. Those of us with knowledge and experiance that have been around a while have to pick and choose who we take the time to help. I get paid to help people with their trucks, when I come here and take my time to spread some knowledge for free, I do it for my own reasons not yours, you are not entitled to my free help.

That said, one of MY reasons for helping is to help people make their own repairs/mods and truck safer, so I like to help with brakes.

So, please DO NOT lower your pedal. The height is also your stroke and you may find one day in a hurry that you need ALL of that stroke. As soon as that pedal hits the floor that's it. If you insist on trying to get it a little lower then do this;

1. Is there a spring that pulls the pedal up, if so go ahead and remove it, you don't need it, and maybe there is some slack in the assembly that will go away if the master cylinder/booster is the only thing pushing the pedal up.

2. Remove/check out the plunger rod that connects the pedal arm to the master/booster. I can't remember if the stock one is adjustable, if it is not get yourself an adjustable one so that you can adjust the length of the plunger rod. Changing the length of the plunger rod is a much better method then spacing out the master cylinder/booster like M.L.S.C. described, but accomplishes the same thing.

3. Open the bleeders on a rear wheel cylinder and a front caliper so that you can push the pedal all the way down to where it stops, and find a rock or stick to hold it there. It's either going to stop then it hits the floor or the bottom of the stroke in the master cylinder. If the pedal hits the floor the plunger rod is too short, adjust it longer. If the pedal stops before hitting the floor then you can make the plunger rod a little shorter and lower your pedal. Idealy you want them both at the same time.

4. This will require you to readjust/modify your brake light switch, if you don't your brake lights will be on all the time.

I hope you and anyone else reading, find this usefull and respond with what you do, find, and think. And that this will help you keep a safe truck on the road, sure a lower pedal will help you hit the brake faster, but that height is there for a reason, don't go into it lightly.
 
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:50 PM
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What ever you do, DON'T TORCH PEDAL ARM!!! It is designed to be the single strongest item on a vehicle. Heating it to bend it will change the tensile strength of the steel, making it prone to cracking, or worse yet, breaking during heavy use. when you heat it to the point of bending, you are actually changing the steel on a mircoscopic level, and re-arranging the molecules to form a material in the heated area that won't hold up the way it was originally designed and engineered.

The pedal arm is made of 4140 steel, which, when heated, will become harder. Harder is not always what you want, like in this case.
 
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Old 10-13-2009, 01:08 PM
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Well, I'm happy to hear all the suggestions and helpful tips out there. I was out of town all weekend, so I couldn't see all the replies to this thread. I'll have to take a closer look at the truck this weekend. But don't worry, I do not plan on torching anything.
 

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