Well, a couple of tablespoons full might be a bit much - especially for a diesel with 22.5:1 CR. I'd think more like a teaspoon full would do it.

But what is the point? The FSM says anything over 260 is acceptable and my cold, dry, compression test was better that that - even before I changed my starter and batteries. Adding a little oil to the cylinders is definitely going to raise the numbers - that's a 100% sure-fire given fact that we all know already. So what would be gained by doing it? Knowing my exact compression numbers? I'm willing if there is a benefit to it, but it is a pretty fair amount of work to do just for the hell of it. I have more than enough automotive work to eat up more time than I have to spare.

Sure, I'd like to see numbers in the 400's, but the fact that they are in the 320-360 range and within (roughly) 10% of each other makes me think the problem isn't in the rings. At least not the whole problem...

 

I'm not trying to be rude ... Just educational!

You appear to not want to hear what I have to say, So I suggest looking up Compression Testing Methods, Procedures and educating yourself!

You will see that what I have stated is in fact correct!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

[quote=CheaperJeeper;7518821]Hamberger - you lost me there pard. I understand the idea that burning more oil might create more carbon (maybe depends on whether it burns cleanly or not), but since all 10 quarts are being replaced every 1000 miles, and the carbon particles that aren't trapped by the filter will stay suspended by the oil and get carried into the combustion chambers and burned up right along with the oil, I can't see how anything is going to "build up" in the oil. It is being diluted too much and too fast with new clean oil. Like I said, I still plan on changing the filter every 3k as usual. As for the valve stem seals - I've already said (2 or 3 times now) that I just replaced them (about 6 weeks ago) and it didn't seem to make much difference. Also, the ones that I took off looked fine - they weren't cracked or hard or anything.


Well, I hope you are changing the filter often. The oil will still concentrate carbon that the filter can't remove, especially if the rings are in bad shape. Sounds like a rebuilt is in your future. In my mind changing the oil might delay the inevitable a little longer than just adding oil all the time.

Good luck....

Seb.....

 

WHOA! Don't get all huffy! You're reading me wrong. I never said you were incorrect. I asked a question - and that question regarding the wet test was "...what's the point?"

If you really want to be educational, and not just grumpy, then educate me - and all of us.

Like I said, the compression numbers will be higher with some oil squirted in the cylinders - I know that, and you know that - heck, we all know that.

So if I do a cold, "wet" compression test, and the numbers are say 10% higher, what does that tell me?
What if they are 25% higher - does that tell me something different?

If the warm "dry" and "wet" numbers are both 10% higher than the cold "dry" and "wet" numbers, what does that tell me?
If they are both 25% higher does that tell me something different?

If the dry number is only 10% higher but the wet number is 20% higher, what does that tell me?
What if it is the other way around and the dry number is 20% higher and the wet number is only 10% higher? Does that tell me something specific?

Like I said originally, what you're suggesting is a fair amount of work. I'm willing to do it if there is something to be gained by it. If the only thing I'm going to get out of it is another set of numbers, then I don't see the point, since the cold, dry numbers I already have are within an acceptable range.

 

Save big on Genuine Ford Parts with www.silverstatefordparts.com formerly www.directfordparts.com. We are a sponsor on this Forum and want to help you SAVE money.

 

Moderators? Are the sponsors now being allowed to use 'bots to randomly post to the forums?

I don't see where this fits into the thread of the conversation here, so I kinda' doubt that it was done by an actual human. If it was they sure need to work on the technique of how you seque a plug for your company into a conversation.

 

I apologize if that post was out of line. I am not a regular on the Forums by any stretch. I am too busy trying to sell parts to spend time on the Forum. I was just answering an e-mail and this thread caught my eye because I know there are a lot of do it yourselfers out there and I know I can offer you great savings on Genuine Ford Motorcraft filters.

By the way I have been selling Ford parts for 34 years and I am actually a human. I don't even know what a 'bot" is.

 

LOL! Not exactly out of line - just didn't seem to fit into the conversation regarding excessive oil consumption.

If it had specifically mentioned saving on filters it would have fit right into the conversation and made a lot more sense.

'bot is short for robot. In internet terminology it isn't a piece of hardware that is controlled by software, it is just a piece of software that scans the content of forums, emails, web posts, blogs, etc. looking for certain words and then performing a specified action. Because it is just software the name has been shortened to 'bot (half of ro-bot)

For example, someone who sells oil could program a posting 'bot to search for threads with the word "oil" in them and when it finds one to post a reply that says "Brand XYZ oil is the best there is and here is a link to a web page with proof..."

'bots can be programmed to do lots of other things, that's just an example. Unfortunately since they are just a piece of software, if they aren't programmed right, a posting 'bot will post messages that don't fit into the context of the conversation. Hence my assumption that your post was made by a 'bot - because I couldn't see the connection to the context of the thread...

 

Thanks for the info on bots. I promise not to stick my nose into any more threads until I have a better idea how they work. If you ever need help with Ford parts give me a call.
702-796-2765

 

Not at all my man. Everyone's comments are always welcome. I just missed the connection at first...

Care to give us all a quote on the filters you stock - just to give us a better idea of what you have to offer?

Maybe quote the price to us for a standard 6.9 filter and for the early (94-95) PowerStroke filter? (a lot of us use the 'stroke filter on our IDIs - cause they're bigger and flow more volume - even though they filter to a smaller micron rating)

 

I will apologize, I guess I took your message wrong, And I didn't mean for it to sound the way it does... Sorry!

I'm really not a grumpy old man, tactless yes, grumpy no!

I'm going to cut up your quotes a bit, Hopefully I won't miss anything, I am going to skip a couple redundant Q's.

A comparison of dry/wet test can give you clues to the conditions of the rings.

Yes.

The higher the difference the more likely it's bad rings.
As agreed above, They are going to improve some do to the oil taking up space.

Same as above plus, Worn pistons. (extreme piston / cylinder clearance)
Probably hear the pistons slapping when cold!

Mosts of it's going to get blown out when you crank the motor a couple times after adding the oil, but it'll (hopefully) coat the cylinder walls.

I have not done a compression test on a these IDI motors, I need to visit Snap-on and get me an adapter. So really, I do not know, other than what I have seen others post here on FTE and they are usually 400's plus.

Well, Actually to me that suggests, that it could be a dusted motor. Not that I'm saying it is!
If they all jumped up with a wet test, then yes, I would say it's dusted!

In a N/A motor, you would want the higher number, but if it's a Turbo'd motor the lower number could mean other things ...
I say that because you can reduce the Compression Ratio to add more fuel/air.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Sorry for the confusion Cheaper. Alot of the Ats turbos reccomend getting the blowby from the valve covers. This is great if you have some sorta baffle system, but straight to the intake it DRINKS oil.

Anyway, I've worked on diesels professionally for some time, and I'd always been told (and it makes sense) that doing a wet compression test is a BAD idea.
Simply put, adding oil to an engine that runs on oil, may very well ummm make it run....
Plus with such a tight combustion chamber I wouldn't be adding anything that isn't atomized.

If it was me, I'd be pouring that oil back into the crankcase.... F*** the engine, get a spare to rebuild and when this one lets go pull it. (or whenever the rebuild is done).

 

The sponsors can post things like that in the forums.

But they can't quote prices in an open forum, that has to be done by email or PM's.

As I just read through this, I have to wonder about the turbo seals.
Do you keep mileage records?
Have you seen an increase in MPG?

You could be losing oil through the turbo seals into the intake side, which is then becoming more fuel.

That puff of blue smoke, was that after idling for a while?

 

Seems that you would see a bit of oil residue from the pressure side of the turbo (hose/ tube) if it was pulling that much oil from there. Have you checked the turbo inlet/ outlet on the intake and exhaust side?

Lower than normal compression readings don't necessarily mean oil consumption if the oil control rings are doing their job. If the compression rings were bad, you would be getting excessive blow by into the pan. Since your compression is on the low end of normal, you might have an oil ring issue.

If the valve guides were worn, replacing the valve seals would only be a temporary band aid.

I would still expect more blue from the tail pipe if you were going through this amount of oil.

While I would agree that there is some expansion between cold and hot oil levels, it is not enough to cause an issue. On a truck with a 10 gallon oil capacity, the oil level is usually within a quart or 2 of the cold level after 5-10 minutes.

Jason

 

Well, FWIW, I have pulled the air cleaner AND the intake "hat". There is a little oil evident, but not a lot - either in the manifold, the hat, or the inlet/outlet of the turbo. Certainly not the kind of quantity you'd expect to see if it was pushing that much through the CDR or the Turbo seals on the intake side.

I haven't seen any significant changes in mpg either. It still gets about 10-11 mpg in the mountains, and a couple of mpg higher in the flat lands with the camper on and the Jeep hitched up behind. Running empty it gets around 14-15 mpg, maybe a little better on long straight flat highway runs.

Festus - FWIW my truck has an old-school Banks turbo on it. By "dusted" I gather you mean it has sucked enough grit and dust to wear out the cylinders and/or rings?

DeepRoots - I plan on doing about what you suggest. I already have a "spare" motor that needs head gaskets in my buddy's garage. I plan on doing the head gaskets, and checking the bearings, etc., and getting it ready to swap in when this one goes...