I'm posting this for a friend of mine that has an '02 F250 7.3. He works offshore and most of the time when he does get home he drives a company truck. So, his truck doesn't get driven much, sits sometimes months at a time and when he does drive, he drives it pretty hard. He's in Australia right now and this is the message he sent me:

"... I took it to ford and they ran a diagnostic on it. Came back saying that the #7 injector is shorting out. They said they checked it and it was discolored. They wanna charge me 2100 bux to change the entire harness out. Can you do some checking fer me? All I did before it happened was pressure washed the motor and then this started. I think it just got some wader on that connector but they are saying different..."

So, this is a new area for me, and I was hoping I could get some feedback here.

Thanks.

 

Tell your Buddy that the dealer is trying to take advantage of his wallet. More then likely it is what you just said. Take the connections off the horniest and make sure no water is in there. It could also be the UVCH connection. Tell him not to worry, this should not cost him near that much.

 

His truck isn't really too much different then yours. Remind him power washing a motor with that much electrical stuff isn't exactly a good idea. I'll agree with Rick, first thing to do is unplug all the connectors, check them for moisture or corrosion, and plug them back in. Pay close attention to the 42 pin connector (square box with a bolt in the middle right on the drivers side valve cover.

He has a discolored LOOKING injector, so they want to change out the main wiring harness? What computer tests did they run, and what codes did they come up with? Did they buzz test the injectors to see if #7 wasn't working?

The newer 7.3's only have one connector at each valve cover. Front 2 pins and rear 2 pins are glow plugs. Center pin is the injector common. The other 4 pins are injectors. Have him grab an ohm meter and read ohms between the injector pins and common pin on the passenger side at the pass thru connector at the valve cover. The #7 pin will be the rear most injector pin G G I I C I I G G is how the connector is laid out. G= Glow plug, I = Injector. He'll be looking for a reading of less than 5 ohms, but also want to compare the reading to the other injectors. Sometimes a bad solenoid will only read about 0.6 ohms lower than all the others. Usually a bad solenoid will cause the IDM to shut down the entire bank, not just lose the bad injector.

Can you ask him what types of symptoms he's having? If he's got the time to play with an ohm meter (guessing he does since he doesn't drive it much) have him join up here and keep us updated on his progress, unless you want to be the go between. If necessary, we'll find the wiring pin outs so he can find any wiring short himself.

 

Thanks for the answers. Yeah, he doesn't have a whole lot of time on his hands to play with it. Like I said he's back in Australia now. When he comes back in he usually has 30 days and he's normally got everything pretty tightly scheduled. Plus he's fixing to get married pretty soon. So he was wanting me to handle this. I'll have to get more specifics from him. I'd be curious myself to know what codes showed up and what other diagnostics were run. Maybe I could get over to Rubber Duck's place and get him to run the buzz test. I have a multimeter so I could check the pins out for him. He lives a pretty about two hours from me, so I'll see what he says about me bringing it home. It'll make it a lot easier for me running between the truck and the computer for sure!

 

Not sure it would be a good idea for you to bring this truck home with you. Once you drive the PSD, and we get it running right, you might have to put a 4" exhaust, 6637 intake, gauges, DP-TUNER, 38R turbo, SS Stage II injectors, you might not want to give it back to him. jk.

We will help all we can.

 

Cody should be able to help you get this fixed with no troubles. Feel free to ask any more questions, and be sure to share the results with us.