Nothing made by Auto-Lite after 1972 is a Genuine Ford Part.

Ford was forced by the US Gov't in 1972 to sell Auto-Lite, because the Gov't claimed Ford had a monopoly on auto parts.

After selling Auto-Lite, Ford started Motorcraft, transfering all the then existing Auto-Lite part numbers to Motorcraft part numbers.
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The three step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module.

1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost immediately.

2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in an hour or so.

3) Sooner or later, usually sooner...the module overheats, BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not re-start.

Engine heat, especially radiating from the left exhaust manifold on V8's is the MORTAL enemy of these modules.

The module is mounted on the left fender inner apron, just in front of the firewall.

When replacing it, use some washers to space it further out...this will allow more air to circulate around it.

"The module tested ok, replaced it anyway...still have the same problemo."

Here's prolly the reason:

In addition to the ignition module, inside the dizzy is a stator...aka pickup coil.

The failure symptoms can be the exact same thing as the module.

The same stator was used 1974/79: D4PZ12A112A (Motorcraft DU1A)

AND...do not forget...when the module and/or stator are cool, usually..they will test out OK.

But....that does not mean that they are OK!

 

That's interesting, i didn't know that, i used to buy Autolite spark plugs for all my trucks until they shipped manufacturing over to China last year.

 

The reason you want over 70,000 ohms between each pickup module terminal and ground is because you want it to be open-circuit. If your multimeter can't register a resistance, that's a good thing in this case because it's essentially reading open-circuit (assuming you're ranging it correctly if it's not an auto-ranging multimeter). This happens because the resistance is too high to distinguish. Your pickup module has tested fine.

Sorry, I can't remember - did you try checking the resistance of the coil windings? Typically, how long does it take before you can re-start it again? Is it right away, or does it need to cool down a bit?

 

I tested resistance from the low voltage terminals on the coil, and checked from the batt terminal to the high voltage terminal on the coil, and that all tested fine (can't remember the exact numbers, but it matched what I had in a repair guide). The truck usually starts right back up, doesn't seem to need a cool down period.

 

This is so strange. I guess what I would do is wait until it cuts again, and then immediately pop the hood and check the pickup module resistance. Heat-related problems are the toughest to diagnose without throwing money at the truck.

 

The BIG problem is...that most autoparts stores...today...sell parts that are made in China.

These parts are CRAP!

While the genuine Ford Blue module used on most trucks after 1975 is expensive compared to the China crap...it isn't made in China!

Above where the wires feed out...there is a Blue plastic square. This module is commonly seen on 1976 and later cars/trucks (except some 1976/79's sold new in CA).

1U2Z12A199AA .. Ignition Module - Blue / Motorcraft DY893) / (1U2Z12A199AA replaced D9VZ12A199A)

MSRP: $113.62 // FTEpartsguy.com price: $61.36.

 

I think that's the very reason diagnosing and troubleshooting have taken a backseat, parts are so cheap anymore it's just easier to pull and replace them, no one wants to troubleshoot (or knows how to) anymore, when you can basically replace your whole starting/ignition system at your local Napa for under 200 bucks (albeit with junk parts from china) there's no incentive to learn troubleshooting skills.

 

I think this is a very good point. Reps sent.

 

Thanks, coming from you that means a lot.

 

another thing to check as i had the same problem for years drove me nuts
pull off the rear wire plastic connector from the ignition switch on the dash and check that none of the brass tangs are broken off and all the ends are in all the way and tight where the wire goes in i had the 12volt run wire that was loose and give me the same symptoms pushed the wire in wedged a tooth pick in to hold problem gone

 

I'd suspect the pick up coil. This went on me once and can be very intermitten in nature. When you measure the resistance between the orange and purple wires, gently(and I mean gently!) wiggle the wires inside the distributor where they go into the base of the pick up coil, You can also tap the coil lightly with a screw driver handle. If you see the reading on yuor ohm meter go open or spike to a very hi resistance, your pick up coil is shot. It will eventually fail all together,and if Murphy is riding along it will quit when you making a left hand turn!

Frank

 

I have been a mechanic for over 20 years now and I started out my fleet maintenence on wreckers.We had Ford and Chevys,I always preferred Fords.Prior to recently igniton testing equipment and manuals were difficult to come by and expensive.Working for towing co's gave me alot of access to alot of used parts and I developed alot of my own troubleshooting proceedures which are tried and true.You always want to stick to the bascis like always checking spark fuel compression to complete the fire triangle but it sounds to me like an ignition problem since it restarts right away.So,to troubleshoot the dura spark a previous poster hit a nail on the head.With ignition shut down problems 95%of the time it is the module especially if the vehicle restarts right away or in a few minutes.It the problem persists replace the pick up in the distributer this is rare but it does break dowm.Remember as heat increases so does resistance that why you get an intemittant problem the system has to be hot.I have argues with many a dealer mechanic and all his fancy tools and computers that could not fix a simple ford ignition.The bottom line is if the truck rolls out the door and doesn't break down again you fixed it end of story.The chances of getting 3 bad boxes are very slim,peplace the pick up in the dist.I don't remember exactly but you might get away with being able to change it without removing the dist.If you do have to remover the dist let us know and I am sure somone will walk you through it many people on this board are very knowledgable and helpful,remember we all had a time when we didn't know and somebody took the time to show us

 

update...So I bought a pickup coil (staor, magnetic pickup assembly) this morning, received it this afternoon, Genuine Motorcraft too. Put it on tonight and......IT RAN GREAT. The pickup coil seemed to be the problem. I drove my usual run around the block that I always drove to test it before, and then drove some more, and then drove it home and it ran fine. Before, it might cut out anywhere from 5 to 12 times around the block, so that seems to be what the issue was. I just want to say thanks to everyone that helped me out by posting on this issue, specifically montana-highboy, Ranger76, rix4x4, fmc400, NumberDummy, miottimouse, fp_5, and TheWarWagon'75. All of the discussion and ideas really helped me fix this truck and I couldn't have gotten it done without your input. Thanks again, and if I knew you guys in person, I'd buy you all a drink, and if you don't drink, then I'd get you a birthday cake. Thanks again

 

Glad it worked out for you, I know how frustrating these things can get. AND how great this site is in getting answers for you.

Now about that drink...... virtually perfect!

Frank

 

Glad to hear the news.