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Battery Light on @ Idle

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Old May 7, 2009 | 06:30 PM
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Battery Light on @ Idle

Batteries were dying. I was trying to wait til payday but the wife said while I was on the road the battery light kept coming on. Charged two new batts today, still have the batt light on when below about 1100 rpm. 2005 6.0 PS.
Note: tried to search for this but kept getting hundreds of hits- no time to wade thru it all. Sorry.
 
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Old May 7, 2009 | 06:48 PM
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Your alternator is dead or dying. Have it checked at an auto parts store. Call ahead and make sure they can test it. Not every place has the right mounts.
 
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Old May 7, 2009 | 07:35 PM
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Ditto, alternator DOA.
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 10:46 AM
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yep would have to say alternator
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 11:00 AM
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Unhappy

Thx every1. I'm thinking alternator here -
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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a lot of people have the misconception that when the battery light comes on it's the battery. if the light comes on while the vehicle is running period it's the alternator. the only thing the batteries are used for is starting the truck. after they are recharged they don't do anything until the alternator takes a dump then the power is drawn from the batteries.
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 02:36 PM
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A battery that is internally shorted can drag an alternator down.
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 03:00 PM
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So, great sages and emminent techies, any threads around for checking the alternator with my trusty Radio Shack-O-Meter? Tried to locate a service manual in pdf form but no joy, although it did return 247 pages of hits, no matter how I filtered my search. Oops, off-topic, sorry again. Old Guy...
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 06:50 PM
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Check your battery voltage with the engine off. Make sure its around 12V Make sure all your connections are tight and clean. Then check your voltage while cranking the engine.


Scenario #1

If voltage drop to 9 or 8 volts while cranking you either got some discharged batteries or weak batteries that are going south.

You need to either recharge your batteries or have them load tested to make sure they are good. Voltage may not drop that much while cranking the engine.

Also disconnect the batteries and check your voltage with them disconnected. The voltage on each one of them should be the same. If you have one battery with 12 or 11 volts and the other one with 8 or 10 volts that's the bad one. If you want to replace just one or both is up to you.

Scenario #2

If you check your battery voltage while cranking and the voltage don't go that much down, then it should raise all the way up to around 13.8V with the engine running. If the voltage don't raise up to 13.8V, with the engine running, and you are sure that your batteries are 100% good then you may have alternator problems.

Good Luck...
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 07:13 PM
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If you don't have close to 14v after 30seconds of the engine running your alternator is bad. Just take your truck to any chain auto parts store and they will most likely have a battery charger/tester and an alternator tester that they can use for free.
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 08:15 PM
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Seems to have been transient. As I said, I changed both batteries on Thursday 5/7 because they were getting weaker and weaker. On 5/4 my wife had to run me to New Orleans to catch a flight and on her way back to Ole Miss she noticed the batt light came on when idling. I got home 5/6 and got new batts next day. Didn't get the light again until leaving a doctor's appt with about 15 miles on the new batts. Again it only came on at idle.

Just went out with my Shack-O-Meter and I've got 14 volts at idle, 13.7 with the lights on. I checked at both batts and at the alternator post-to-ground. Seems okay now, but I'm gonna keep a suspicious eye on it. 100,700 miles on this 2005.
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 08:59 PM
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can you use the voltmeter gauge on the odometer trick? for these tests?
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 03:54 PM
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I would seriously get the Alt checked out if it is bad it will kill your batteries in time and an ficm is not cheap to replace. Low voltage will kill an ficm
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 07:27 PM
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Just make sure you don't disconnect the batteries with the engine running. That test worked fine in the 70s but now a days it will fry computers... Good luck.
 
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Old May 13, 2009 | 05:20 PM
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Stupid Missippi boi here, don't cotton ta whut a ficm is. Or are. I just drive the dang thing. Wife got the alternator 2day, I'll put it on Friday when I get back from TEXAS.
 
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