Hi everybody, newbee here.
Bought a 2000 Ranger XLT, auto 3.0, 4 doors, power locks (fixed) power windows.
Having problems with power windows.
If I used the up/down switch on the right side window/door, the window works fine, but if I try to up/down the right door window from the master switch on the left door/driver side, the right window won't work; also, when the right window operated from the rihgt door switch goes up and reach it's limit, the windows tries to keep on going, in other words, it won't stop unless I release the switch.
Any help, ideas?
Thanks

P.S. Did a search and could not find a post with same problems.

 

try cleaning the drivers side switches and all the contacts. Ford uses a 5-wire system and it sounds like it has a bad contact somewhere, the switch is the fist place to start.

 

Yeah, first step would be to clean the contacts on the switch with an electrical cleaner. You may also be dealing with the track/gear teeth being worn and jumping teeth.

I did a writeup that may help you with some of the access to the stuff you need to work on.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...egulators.html

 

Thnaks for your responses.
Think I found the problem with the switch, seems like there is an open circuit between the main switch (driver side) and the passenger side switch. In regards to the window not stoping, just ordered a new regulator.

 

Well. as I said, replaced the regulator and works fine, however, in regards to the power windows, replaced the master power windows switch, made sure ground is good, the power switch for the passenger side works fine but still can't make the passenger window work from the driver side. Any suggestions?

 

You might look for a continuity problem on the T/Lb wire, from the passenger window switch, through 3 connectors, to the drivers side master control switch.

 

pawpaw:
If I connect a test light between the T/Lb connector on the passenger side base and the T/Lb connector of the master control switch base (no actual switches), I should have continuity, right? if there is not continuity there is an open between the switches, no? Guess I don't need to have the ignition switch neither in "on" nor in "acc".

 

Found the proble,
Did a continuity test to all the wires tha goes from the master control switch to the passenger window and there was no open circuit, so that lead me to think that, although the passenger switch did operate the passenger window, there must have been something wrong with the switch still. Took it appart and noticed that one of the prongs from the passenger window that get power from the master switch had an open circiut, hence the power from the master switch was not reaching the passenger window motor. Did some tinkering and !voila!, working. Thans for your help guys.

 

Well I was thinking of you using a multimeter on the ohms scale, to measure continuity on this lead, as you could also get an idea if connector contact corrosion might be the culprit, if you got a high resistance reading, or an open circuit, if it were infinite resistance.

The test light won't do that.
For it to work with the wiring harness disconnected, you'll need a battery to supply some current for the test light & complete the circuit.

Or with the wiring harness connected to the drivers side switch, maybe you could get an indication using the test lamp, with one test lead connected to the pasenger side T/Lb wire & grounding the test lamps other test lead, then go to an ignition switch position that normally lets you power the windows with the engine off & then push the drivers side passenger window switch in the down position & see if the test lamp lights up.

If it does, that says the wiring is good to the passenger side. If it doesn't, then you have an open circuit, or high resistance connection between the drvers side master control switch & the passenger side on the T/Lb lead.

Of course this assumes you have power at the drivers side T/Lb connection to begin with, so be sure to check it first, if you haven't already done that.

Let us know what you find.

 

pawpaw, guess you were typing while I was posting. See my post before your last one, Found the problem and fixed it. !THANKS!

 

OK, good feedback & to hear you got it fixed.

I need to tinker with my power windows & door locks, which just started acting up again!!!!

Maybe if they'll act up long enough I can successfully trouble shoot the danged things!!!! lol

 

Nice to see your fixed.Welcome to the site BTW.

 

Thanks.
It took me some time to find out what it was since the passenger switch worked with the passenger windows and there was no open citcuit between the master switch and the passenger switch. I was confused would have bet the passenger switch was 100% ok.

 

SjHould have taken some pics but would have needed a macro lens for the pics.